Cat 941b resurrection/ Under carriage

[charles walton]

Did some talking with my old Locktite rep. With the beating going to those splines go with High strength large gap 680 retainer compound would be best. Heating to 400F will break it apart latter. If I used a primer (I would in this case for sure) the only 2 in the toolbox. My chose for this. SF 7649 N, 30 min. assembly time, slower cure time. Tougher with the slower cure. (SF 7471 T 25 min A.T. faster cure time, can fill bigger gaps. "" Do Not Use on Warm Parts Sets Up Real Fast ""). It would be a good idea to do the job on a cool day it will give more assembly time. Check back for more if you want to do it.
Best of Luck

I have already ordered a 50 ml. bottle of Locktite 638,I picked it because of the tensile strengyh being the highest of 4500 psi. Is the primer compatible with it and is 50 ml. enough do you think?

 

[charles walton]

Blue loctite is removable with standard wrenches but I think it's worth fixing right after having everything apart.

I would like to put new parts in it but FINDING them is the key. My usual supplier can only locate a used hub and I think he quoted me $600 for it and I don't know if it will be any better than mine. I found a new one on e-bay that they claim will work for it. My part is #6k4618 and theirs is 4v3396,I was hoping someone could tell me if thats a match.

 

[Welder Dave]

Loctite 660 is for worn splines and key ways. Best strength without primer. Used some on bushings for backhoe swing where bore was not perfectly round. Certainly not the cheapest but strongest for the application. I'd probably put some anti-seize on the splines. 660 fixed a common problem on Mazda Miata's with the cam or something. On my phone so can't post a link.

 

[Cat977]

Some spots in-between the inside and outside splines probably have excessive clearance. The primer in theory will help make everything solid.

 

[Welder Dave]

Got to the computer. You can use activator but I read it lowers the strength. Fills gaps up to .5mm (.020").

LOCTITE 660 - Retaining Compound - Henkel Adhesives (henkel-adhesives.com)

 

[charles walton]

Some spots in-between the inside and outside splines probably have excessive clearance. The primer in theory will help make everything solid.

Thanks Cat977 and Welder Dave for the info. I might still have to use it but I went ahead and ordered a new aftermarket hub,hoping that will tighten it up,we'll see.

 

[charles walton]

Well, I'm ready to start building up the roller frame and rebuild the track adjuster cylinder and I have a new hub on the way but I don't know if that will tighten up the sprocket enough. It looks to be like the splined center of the sprocket is changeable if it's available and I could find one.

 

[Cat977]

Good to see the project keep going! I'm surprised to see an insert and the fact it looks pretty good. Do you see it listed in parts book? Those screws don't hold it in. I'm guessing more splines inside and a shrink/press fit. Is the whole taper inside look good? Can you measure the taper on each end with a telescoping gage and a mic.? Then compare the amount of taper over the same distance on the hub?

 

[charles walton]

Good to see the project keep going! I'm surprised to see an insert and the fact it looks pretty good. Do you see it listed in parts book? Those screws don't hold it in. I'm guessing more splines inside and a shrink/press fit. Is the whole taper inside look good? Can you measure the taper on each end with a telescoping gage and a mic.? Then compare the amount of taper over the same distance on the hub?

I could not find anything except a complete sprocket group in the parts book. I don't have anything to measure the taper. I guess when my new hub gets here I can see how far it will slide into those splines before it starts to get tight,I might still have to glue it.

 

[Cat977]

You can check on the fit with just the 2 pieces before the installation. You also find the distance where the engagement stops. The really special fits I use Prussian Blue and Red Lead. Thin stuff it would show you just how good the fit is. Mostly I put a really light coat of layout dye on one piece slide to together wack it with a dead blow. Pull it apart and see what the engagement looks like. Lay the sprocket down on some blocking to get rid of the effects of gravity. Hang the hub off a hoist for the best work. 16 oz. on Amazon for $17.

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[Cat977]

16 oz. is a lot. You can also get the contrasting red. Plasta gage might be of use if you think the taper is off a lot.
Best of Luck

 

[charles walton]

16 oz. is a lot. You can also get the contrasting red. Plasta gage might be of use if you think the taper is off a lot.
Best of Luck

thanks,I'm hoping for the best but planning for the worst.

 

[charles walton]

16 oz. is a lot. You can also get the contrasting red. Plasta gage might be of use if you think the taper is off a lot.
Best of Luck

You know, I've been wondering if there might be a way to convert over to a segmented sprocket somehow, maybe from a D4E or something.

 

[charles walton]

Well I finally got it all apart, the gears and bearings look good.

 

[charles walton]

Can anyone tell me what this part number is, the seal that I am pointing to? I can't find it in my parts book.

 

[Nige]

Is it for this.?


Looks like you need ref #9 - 2S-5867 Seal.
I may have mentioned this before but I'm not sure the Parts Manual you have is the correct one for your machine.

 

[charles walton]

Is it for this.?
View attachment 239991

Looks like you need ref #9 - 2S-5867 Seal.
I may have mentioned this before but I'm not sure the Parts Manual you have is the correct one for your machine.

View attachment 239990

 

[charles walton]

I have the 2s5867 and it doesn't look like the one I am pointing at. Maybe it has been changed?

 

[Cat977]

The torn up seal doesn't look anything like what you need. Can you measure the places they fit together. The seal in your hand is the right type of seal. Only problem that could be is wrong size. It has the right shape. It should have the feel of hard rubber or soft plastic. The cup faces the grease.

 

[charles walton]

It seems the sprocket is loose then? How loose is it? Is the gear damaged on the hub? How much use will the machine get? Have you punched the part numbers into machinery Trader?

If I felt it wasn't that loose and for a farm machine I would Lock Tite it using primer. Use yellow or blue. Primer will harden it up in large gaps. 400F to brake it loose.

Have you ever used the green without a primer? No. 638 it fills up to .015 and is 4500 psi and starts to set in 4minutes. The splined show a little wear but look to be good enough for this. I bought a new hub but I'm going to save it and if this doesn't work for long I will replace the sprocket too when I go back in there.