cat 297c

[Paul Wade]

I te

The code occurances were roughly 56 times where as the left hand joystick codes were only 4. I talked to a guy who had plugged a computer up to it a few months ago and he told me thatI

The code occurances were roughly 56 times where as the left hand joystick codes were only 4. I talked to a guy who had plugged a computer up to it a few months ago and he told me that

I tested the power to righthand joystick and unplugged #1 orange and #2 black unplugged was 12 volts, plugged in was zero

 

[Chrisso]

pink at joystick plugged in and ground tester to Frame shows 12v.. when I plug my black tester into 203 black wire at joystick connector there is no power

Yes sir... pink to ground Frame 12.2v..
Pink to black 12.2v

Which statement is correct?

 

[Paul Wade]

Which statement is correct?

Left joystick unplugged pink & black have power
Plugged they have battery power
Right joystick unplugged #1 orange & #2 black have power... Plugged they do not. This is correct

 

[Paul Wade]

Left joystick unplugged pink & black have power
Plugged they have battery power
Right joystick unplugged #1 orange & #2 black have power... Plugged they do not. This is correct

I believe my right joystick (system is bad) causing brake to lock and not allowing left driving joystick to work

 

[Chrisso]

I believe my right joystick (system is bad) causing brake to lock and not allowing left driving joystick to work

You could be right. The -3 troubleshooting procedures are more or less the same for LH & RH joysticks, they both operate the same way, and you have the schematic which tells you which wires go where.

The trouble is you don't have ET hooked up to see what codes are active right now. So we need to improvise.

Nige is talking you through verifying/confirming you have correct power and ground to the LH joystick. That is now confirmed. The next step is to verify you're getting the correct PWM signal out of the joystick and back to the ECM on each of those 2 signal wires. It's a simple test where you switch your multimeter to duty cycle and has been covered a few times before. If you need help with that let us know.

Once you do that you can move onto troubleshooting the next codes in your list (because again we have no idea what's active or just logged at this point).

When you say you're checking the power and ground with the plugs connected, how are you doing that?

 

[Arny L]

Left joystick unplugged pink & black have power
Plugged they have battery power
Right joystick unplugged #1 orange & #2 black have power... Plugged they do not. This is correct

I don't get what he means by pink and black have power. Or orange and black for that matter. The test Nige suggested was to check for 12v on pink wire, using chassis as a ground source, this is to verify a good ground. Then to ground Pink 12v wire to eng harness ground, black wire, to verify ground from that point back to ECM. Something is getting lost in translation me thinks.

 

[Paul Wade]

You could be right. The -3 troubleshooting procedures are more or less the same for LH & RH joysticks, they both operate the same way, and you have the schematic which tells you which wires go where.

The trouble is you don't have ET hooked up to see what codes are active right now. So we need to improvise.

Nige is talking you through verifying/confirming you have correct power and ground to the LH joystick. That is now confirmed. The next step is to verify you're getting the correct PWM signal out of the joystick and back to the ECM on each of those 2 signal wires. It's a simple test where you switch your multimeter to duty cycle and has been covered a few times before. If you need help with that let us know.

Once you do that you can move onto troubleshooting the next codes in your list (because again we have no idea what's active or just logged at this point).

When you say you're checking the power and ground with the plugs connected, how are you doing that?

Connector plugged in and probes going into back

 

[Paul Wade]

Connector plugged in and probes going into back

Back of connection into #1 & #2 .. power and ground

 

[Paul Wade]

I don't get what he means by pink and black have power. Or orange and black for that matter. The test Nige suggested was to check for 12v on pink wire, using chassis as a ground source, this is to verify a good ground. Then to ground Pink 12v wire to eng harness ground, black wire, to verify ground from that point back to ECM. Something is getting lost in translation me thinks.

I get power to pink wire and ground to frame... or ground to black 203 with plug plugged together on left hand joystick... but righthand joystick only gets power when not plugged together. As soon as plugged, power goes away. I believe the next thing is to check for broken wire, loose connection or corrosion on the righthand joystick

 

[Paul Wade]

I don't get what he means by pink and black have power. Or orange and black for that matter. The test Nige suggested was to check for 12v on pink wire, using chassis as a ground source, this is to verify a good ground. Then to ground Pink 12v wire to eng harness ground, black wire, to verify ground from that point back to ECM. Something is getting lost in translation me thinks.

The pink #1 to power left joystick gets power with probe to ground, with probe to #2 black203 and with the connector plugged in. The right joystick gets power #1 orange and frame ground or through black 203 wire. But when plugged together it does not

 

[Arny L]

The pink #1 to power left joystick gets power with probe to ground, with probe to #2 black203 and with the connector plugged in. The right joystick gets power #1 orange and frame ground or through black 203 wire. But when plugged together it does not

Ok, so to me, its not that there's no power, its means there is a short to ground, pulling the voltage to zero. Did you try a continuity test of the ground circuit, from the unplugged connector to the unplugged ECM connector. Keep in mind that a partial green crusty wire can handle an ohm meter, and maybe even a test lamp, and may present as good, so you should introduce a load, like a 2-3 amp light bulb, to rule out a green wire.

 

[Chrisso]

Back of connection into #1 & #2 .. power and ground

That’ll do.

X 2 what Arny said about continuity (aka resistance) check. Wiggle the wires and look for a change in meter reading also.

Being an internal ECM ground though I’d be hesitant running a load or using a test light. That’s just me. I’d rather run a new test wire to confirm.

 

[Arny L]

That’ll do.

X 2 what Arny said about continuity (aka resistance) check. Wiggle the wires and look for a change in meter reading also.

Being an internal ECM ground though I’d be hesitant running a load or using a test light. That’s just me. I’d rather run a new test wire to confirm.

If ECM is unplugged, you should not cause a problem. But running a wire will work as well.

 

[Paul Wade]

You could be right. The -3 troubleshooting procedures are more or less the same for LH & RH joysticks, they both operate the same way, and you have the schematic which tells you which wires go where.

The trouble is you don't have ET hooked up to see what codes are active right now. So we need to improvise.

Nige is talking you through verifying/confirming you have correct power and ground to the LH joystick. That is now confirmed. The next step is to verify you're getting the correct PWM signal out of the joystick and back to the ECM on each of those 2 signal wires. It's a simple test where you switch your multimeter to duty cycle and has been covered a few times before. If you need help with that let us know.

Once you do that you can move onto troubleshooting the next codes in your list (because again we have no idea what's active or just logged at this point).

When you say you're checking the power and ground with the plugs connected, how are you doing that?

 

[Paul Wade]

That was not my question.
Go back to the snip taken from the electrical schematic that I attached to Post #57 on the previous page. Specifically for fuse #A4 (power supply to LH joystick base - only live when key is ON) check:-

1. From input (bus bar) side of fuse to machine frame ground as indicated by the blue arrow.
2. From output side of fuse to machine frame ground as indicated by the red arrow.

Report your findings.

Mr. Nige, I do have 12.5v to #A4 fuse to both sides of fuse. I also went back to the LH joystick and tested pink to ground frame with results of battery voltage 12.5v. with the joystick unplugged key on, then tested with the joystick connector plugged back in , with probes in back of connector, red probe to pink #1 and black probe to black #2 and did get battery voltage 12.5. I then tested the righthand joystick unplugged with power to #1spot of connector which is orange wire to ground frame and received battery power 12.5v. Then still unplugged to orange #1spot and then to black #2 spot in connector and again had battery power 12.5v.
When I plugged the righthand joystick connector together and tested for battery power then it had 0 v. Also I spoke with the guy who did a computer plug in check that read the machine a few months back remembered specifically that the righthand joystick had about 53 or 56 occurences and the lefthand had only 3 or 4. I am wanting to test the righthand joystick and only have the lefthand instructions . I am thinking maybe a wire is loose or broke from joystick to ecm possibly. Any thoughts and if the righthand joystick connection was broke or unplugged, would it throw the brake causing the lefthand joystick to be inoperatable as well. thank you for any advice and help as always.

 

[Nige]

Here are the troubleshooting procedures for same -3 Diagnostic codes for the RH joystick, both FWD/REV and side-to-side.

 

[Paul Wade]

Here are the troubleshooting procedures for same -3 Diagnostic codes for the RH joystick, both FWD/REV and side-to-side.

thank you as always and for your patience.