stourpaine
Well-Known Member
the gasket may even have a bit blown out so its easy to see .Pushrod hole maybe filled with carbon and stuck to push rod.be sure to cut the oil filer to check for bearing damage
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Cat 226
- Thread starter vgilbertson
- Start date
Better look again unless it's some super rare variant
Nige
Senior Member
vgilbertson
Member
I did not see an eyelet in the gasket
vgilbertson
Member
you are correct and I am a dumb ass. i
stourpaine
Well-Known Member
now do your compression test. if you sacrifice a glow plug you can modify it to hook to a gauge 0-500 or a 0-400psi would likely suffice. if you have a test light hook the ground to positive + now with the bridge bar between the glow plugs removed, touch the tester tip onto the threaded portion of the glow plug......if it lights the glow plug is good proceed for other 3 plugs if one don't light its bad use this one for the tester you will be destroying the glow plug basically to adapt to the threaded portion to attach your gauge might have to do a bit of bronzing or mig welding to accomplish this. if one is bad you are better off on reassembly to replace them all if funds allow. a difference of no more than 10% between cylinders is what you want. post your numbers. I don't have the spec and not going to tell you what I think it is ,plenty of people on here with SIS at there finger tips.my answers are all from doing!
vgilbertson
Member
vgilbertson
Member
Little info, the skid steer is 40 miles away from my home, I have a Harbor Freight compression tester that I have had for a while, for some reason the 10mm X 1.25 glow plug tester would not thread into the head. Had to drive back to the house and chase the threads, will go back out in the morning and give it another go.
vgilbertson
Member
Good morning,
Compression test starting from the rear of the machine.
510 psi
480
480
290
The front glow plug was wet when removed.
Compression test starting from the rear of the machine.
510 psi
480
480
290
The front glow plug was wet when removed.
stourpaine
Well-Known Member
you have a problem! pull your cylinder head
jrtraderny
Well-Known Member
either a bad head gasket, burnt valve, hole in piston or seized or broken rings.
stourpaine
Well-Known Member
my money is on a blown head gasket
vgilbertson
Member
Head is off, front piston is not coming to the top of the block, stops about 3/16" from the top. Bent rod?
That or he's going to need a rebuild kit!
vgilbertson
Member
stourpaine
Well-Known Member
did the engine knock? think your going to be pulling that engine. typically a bent rod will not reach TDC and will cause a misfire. there are some pretty good aftermarket complete rebuild kits out there. with every thing you need you wont get a connecting rod though.I used one of these kits several years ago and was pretty impressed. everything down to o rings gaskets seals etc etc
vgilbertson
Member
There was no loud knock, this is my first skid steer so.. I lifted the cab, will I need to pull the hydraulics or will the engine separate?
Nige
Senior Member
If you have adequate lfting capacity, snatch everything in one lump and separate the pumps from the engine afterwards.
stourpaine
Well-Known Member
there's no easy way I've tried them all .its just plain ugly! From a time perspective this may suit you...its faster. first remove the cooler/rad assembly This will give you way more room air cleaner housing has to come off .remove various wires etc inc the battery. remove exhaust and flex pipe as a unit .slide in a cherry picker there are 2 lift lugs on top of the engine use them. put 2 small d shackles on the lugs if you don't when making the lift the lugs will bend inwards and damage the valve cover. with the engine SUPPORTED remove the rear bumper the rear motor mount goes through it. loosen the 4 bolts on the rear LH And RH motor mounts .don't forget the braided ground strap fixed from engine block to frame. now lift the cab. find a heavy piece piece of flat bar or rebar and slide it through the bottom cut outs on the lifted cab, hook a 1/4 ton chain fall here wrap a short lift strap around the pumps keeping it close to the engine side rear of pump .lay on a creeper and remove the 2 hydrostat pump bolts they are 18mm there is a Cat tool for this that will make your job easier. or make something .take a little weight on the chain fall. now pull on the end of the hyd pump if its stubborn use a blue bar and pry up on it then bare down it will separate leave it hanging. remove the 8 bolts on the LH and RH engine mounts pull engine out. This way you are not all crunched up under the cab fighting with hoses remembering where they go and having to drain the hydraulic tank.be sure when its out to take a good look at the nylon coupler and replace it if needed......unless you really enjoyed the engine removal process and want to do it again!!! now is a good time to do it! also be sure the steel coupler on the hydro stat is tight and has not moved there is a measurement spec for this you will need. Loctite the screws (2) that hold it if you take it off. now the coupler was updated and if you may find you need to replace them both as the new style nylon disc wont fit the old steel drive hub! check it fits before engine install or you will never mate the engine to the hydrostat! on install . find a willing participant to roll the engine using a 1-7/16 socket on the crank pulley, while you align the hydrostat and slide it together DONT pull it in with the bolts!!
stourpaine
Well-Known Member
may not be the sis way but believe me I have yanked out my share of Cat and other skid steer engines!