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Case boom gland seal help

Discussion in 'Tractor/Loader/Backhoes' started by MtnGoat, May 25, 2020.

  1. MtnGoat

    MtnGoat Member

    Joined:
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    I am replacing the seals on my 580D boom cylinders.

    I am stuck!

    I have two extra seals in the kit.

    When I pulled the old seals off there was just the dust wiper seal on the outside edge with a gap under it.
    The new seal (green) has a gap under it and I am wondering if one of the extra seals in my kit goes next to it in the gap and was just completely gone when I took the old ones off. The diagram in the manual for my tractor shows another separate groove for a seal (which doesn't exist) but not two seals going next to one another.
    If I flush the green seal to the edge of the gland, there isn't really enough space to get another seal in there but I could fit it if I mashed it slightly to flush it to the edge.

    Do I or don't I put that extra seal next to the green one?

    Hope the attached pictures help me make sense.
    DSCN01.jpg DSCN02.jpg DSCN03.jpg DSCN04.jpg DSCN01.jpg DSCN02.jpg DSCN03.jpg DSCN04.jpg
     
  2. MtnGoat

    MtnGoat Member

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    After a little more research it looks like the one I have pictured is unused but the other seal in my kit which is clear and almost the same size is the spacer that is supposed to go in that gap. I'm not sure I want to put it in though because there wasn't one when I took the old seal out and it made it much easier to take the old seal out when I could get something behind it. If I put the clear spacer in there, it will be much harder to replace in the future.
     
  3. mikebramel

    mikebramel Senior Member

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    It's just a wiper... if it is square sitting and it went in tight you are good. The other tan seal looks like a buffer seal, takes up sudden pressure variations off the rod seal. Looks like you have a dry bearing, Id put some grease on it
     
  4. MtnGoat

    MtnGoat Member

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    I've been messing around with it. I think I'm deciding to not use either that tan wiper I have pictured or the clear spacer (not pictured) because they both make the green metal Useal dust cover stick out and not flush with the gland surface. I don't want that dust cover popping off which it seems likely to do if it's sticking out too far and I can't press it down at least flush.

    I'll pack that extra space with grease. That's how the old one seemed to be anyway.

    My other question. I have never done this before. How important is it to get all the air out of the cylinder and filled with hydraulic fluid when reinstalling? From all the videos I have watched it seems like people put them back on the tractor with a chunk of air in them, then they just operate it slow at first to work the air out. Will the air work itself out? Even if I pack this thing with grease when putting it back on.
     
  5. Tinkerer

    Tinkerer Senior Member

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    Yes, the air will be expelled while you operate the cylinder.
    Yes, the wiper seal must be fully seated in the gland.
     
  6. melben

    melben Senior Member

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    pennsylvania
    If there is not a separate grooved for thos thin seals they are not used in your application, it was common for case to use one kit number and service several design cylinders with the same kit, seat the wiper and put it together, Over 50 yrs with Case Ihave repacked more cylinders than I care to mention.
     
  7. MtnGoat

    MtnGoat Member

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    Thanks melben. I didn't use either seal. I just packed that extra space behind that green dust cup with grease.
    I have it back together now but not yet on the tractor.
    I'll post back here if I have any leaks or issues.

    Still wondering if I should bleed air out of the cylinder after it's installed by leaving the hose connections loose or something. It just seems like a lot of air trapped in there.
     
  8. Ct Farmer

    Ct Farmer Senior Member

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    You don’t need to bleed the air out. Just operate it real slow for full stroke 4 or 5 times at low rpm. If you go real fast at high rpm cylinders can “diesel”. Just like an engine the hot compressed air ignites some oil vapor. Results are sometimes not pretty.

    I would not leave fittings loose to bleed them. That is just inviting an oil injection accident. If you feel you need to do something fill through the ports with clean oil before installing hoses.
     
  9. MtnGoat

    MtnGoat Member

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    Thank you.

    I'm still slowly getting caught up on the maintenance of this tractor since buying it. There was a little bit of water in the oil that came out of the cylinder. I should replace the fluid and filter at some point soon. I am wondering, if I put new seals on the swing arm cylinders, does that call for draining the whole system and should be done at the same time I replace the fluid or can I pull those apart without draining all the fluid out?
     
  10. melben

    melben Senior Member

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    You will lose only the oil in the swings, no need to drain system.
     
  11. franklin2

    franklin2 Well-Known Member

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    Virginia
    You are not pulling the cylinders completely off are you? No need to do that, leave the lines and the far end of the cylinder mounted, just take the rod end off and use a come along to pull the rod and piston out of the cylinder once you get the gland nut loose. If you extend the cylinder all the way out before you take it apart, most of the oil will just lay in the cylinder when you pull it out.

    Just make sure you have a old rug, cardboard boxes, or something to cushion the rod and piston when it comes out of the cylinder with the come along and hits the ground or the tractor frame.