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Case 850D final drive

davecampbell

Senior Member
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Jan 20, 2012
Messages
348
Location
Oklahoma
I'm looking at buying a case 850D with what I think is a broken final drive on one side. Looking at the parts breakdown, it looks like pinion shaft (4) is a part of the trans. How hard is it to change that out if it is damaged?
650_850_final_drive.JPG
 

alrman

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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
If purchasing new, you will buy a matched set including the pinion shaft in the transmission. By the book, BOTH need to be replaced.

However, I have seen people run mismatched gears without any problems, as the gears are straight cut bevel.
In saying that, when you remove the final drive to do the repair, you may find that the pinion gear inside the transmission is missing some hardfacing & you may need to replace it any ways.....

If the pinion shaft inside the transmission needs doing - the entire transmission needs to be removed.

If the transmission comes out, there is some special tooling required to do the rebuild.
If you are only doing the final drive, you need to set bearing preloads & measure the bevel gear backlash for install to the transmission.
A service manual is mandatory equipment.

**TIP - when you remove the final drive housing from the transmission, there are shims between the two housings - DO NOT drive anything between the flanges to separate them as this WILL damage the shims & they are mighty EXPENSIVE!!!
 

davecampbell

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2012
Messages
348
Location
Oklahoma
there is some special tooling required to do the rebuild.
If you are only doing the final drive, you need to set bearing preloads & measure the bevel gear backlash for install to the transmission.
A service manual is mandatory equipment.

**TIP - when you remove the final drive housing from the transmission, there are shims between the two housings - DO NOT drive anything between the flanges to separate them as this WILL damage the shims & they are mighty EXPENSIVE!!!
Any idea what he cost of the special tools are?
 

alrman

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I don't think money can buy them as I doubt they are still available - But you can give it a try.

One is a shaft that is bolted into the final drive bore - used to measure the depth of the transmission pinion.
Another is a plate with a hole in it used to replace one of the directional shaft end caps - so you can measure shaft end float.
Another is a couple of plates that can bolt together through a clutch drum - so you can bench test them after reseal & before installation - you will need a hydraulic hand pump for that too....
(that's if you intend to reseal the drums - mad if you don't)

All could be made by some one who is handy on a lathe.
 

davecampbell

Senior Member
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Jan 20, 2012
Messages
348
Location
Oklahoma
Maybe I can remove the trans and take it to the case dealer and have them replace the pinon then re-assemble. I dont want to have them do the whole job because of the expense.
 

alrman

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It's not as simple as that, the pinion shaft is the last to come out during disassembly & first to go in.
Also, the set up requires the 2 x pinion shafts to be installed into the empty housing, front cover fitted, then you set the depth & preload.
Then you remove the front cover, keeping all shim packs separate & then fit the direction shafts, refit the front cover etc etc...

I have gone out & set the pinions up for people & they did the rest, your dealer may do the same??
 

Coy Lancaster

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Arkansas
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service tech
Maybe I can remove the trans and take it to the case dealer and have them replace the pinon then re-assemble. I dont want to have them do the whole job because of the expense.
Like you said just pull trans and take it to dealer if you are sure that the pinion is bad.
 

davecampbell

Senior Member
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Jan 20, 2012
Messages
348
Location
Oklahoma
I pulled the bottom cover under the bull gear and it had the remains of a bearing in it. There were several pieces of the teeth chipped on that gear. Im assuming bearings were getting jammed between the pinion gear and the bull gear, so im assuming that the pinion gear needs replaced. The seller thinks it can be fixed with just a bull gear and a bearing, so we could not make a deal. so Im still in the market for a dozer. Would really like to find a good 1150 if I could.
 

Coy Lancaster

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It was a good idea to walk away from that deal. Sense the bull gear is damaged the bevel gear shaft would be damaged also. And that is when transmission would have to be pulled and bevel gear and pinion would have to be replaced.
 

Coy Lancaster

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The older 1150 may be hard to get parts for though. The transmission in the "C" is actually bigger and a better, in my opinion,
 

alrman

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There would be about +15yrs difference between an 1150 & 1150C.
The C should be the better machine - but that depends on how much TLC it has had during it's life.
There would be big a price difference between the two I would imagine???

Track life is a major consideration, as well as how the transmission functions as these are the big $$$ repairs.
 

dennis sanders

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Jan 12, 2017
Messages
160
Location
Tahlequah ok.
If I'm not mistaken there is a B in between the 1150 and 1150 C...I had a lot of trouble with the angle setup on both..didnt care for the slide on the c frame..lot of hyd tubing and hoses..not good in brush.The C had hyd pitch.
 

Coy Lancaster

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Looks like a good dozer. Should be a lever to operate the winch by blade controls, be sure and keep trans FNR levers in either direction so trans will have pressure.
PS Also the hi lo lever engaged also, speed levers in neutral.
 
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