Case 650K Series 3 electrical issues

[JVRatc2]

Just bought a Case 650K series 3 with some electrical issues that I am trying to sort through. 1st thing I was trying to accomplish was getting the machine to start from the key. Ignition works because I can start the machine by jumping power to the solenoid, hydraulic funtions work.
List of things that are wrong: I don't get power to the white wire going to the solenoid, machine will not travel, drive speed indicator pointing straight down(joy stick was replaced), display shows "N" when the key is first turned on but quickly goes away, menu buttons do not work so I can't see codes, light switch and lights work, trans fault light comes on after a few seconds of the key being turned on plus a number of other things.
I'm trying right now just to get the thing to start from the key if possible. 4 relays in the left fuse panel click when ignition is turned on and also when turning the key to start.
Just want to get the conversation started and hopefully a little guidance as I try to sort through all of this stuff.
Machine has 950 hours. Serial # CAL012256

 

[Coy Lancaster]

Well the first thing to do is, and you've probably done this already is check all fuses and relay function. If you don't have a relay tester I would suggest you get one or at least rig up some jumper wires to do test with. Do you have a service manual yet? The drive train controller is under the cover in the left console check all your connections also. There are threads on here that cover the testing and wiring of the 650K and 850k machines.

 

[JVRatc2]

Thanks Coy, I do have a manual and just got the schematics blown up on blueprint paper. I haven't made it back to the machine since the post but this weekend I'll be working on it. I'll know more by Monday.
Thanks again

 

[JVRatc2]

All relays test good and fuses replaced. Got as far as verifying that I have power to the transmission control module at the harness side. Noticed that the right proximity switch doesn’t light up orange or green. Still doesn’t start with the key but relays click when I turn the key to ignition and I hear clicking again when I turn the key to start. No power at white wire on stared solenoid.

 

[Coy Lancaster]

If the one safety switch is not lighting up green then the start circuit will not engage. Test that switch and circuit.

 

[JVRatc2]

The right side proximity switch (smooth grey sheathing over blue black and brown)wires were severed and someone tried repairing them and did a terrible job. Two of the wires were not connected. I’ll get that fixed before I move forward.

also noticed what appears to be two additional relays wired in from behind the fuse panel. Not sure yet what they are for because I don’t see them on the schematic. I’ll add pics when I figure out how to do that

 

[JVRatc2]

 

[JVRatc2]

 

[Vetech63]

Looks almost like a 1650L panel. I believe one of those relays your circled is the start relay itself.

 

[Coy Lancaster]

Case had some issues with wiring on these machines and had to add relays to certain circuits so it's probably an update. Maybe start circuit and A/C if equipped or park brake. I know there were a lot of issues with condenser motor circuits burning the wires and melting fuses in early models.

 

[JVRatc2]

Got the right side proximity switch replaced and the orange/green lights are working on both sides like they should now. Machine still doesn't start from the key nor does it travel.

 

[JVRatc2]

Anyone know if it is possible to get the instrument cluster and the joystick tested ?

 

[Coy Lancaster]

There is a ohm and voltage test for the joystick in the service manual other than that I don't know of any way to test either of them off the machine. The only other way is to swap them to a known good machine if you have one close and owner agrees.

 

[JVRatc2]

I located the "CAN" resistor in the back of the dash and it doesn't have continuity, zero ohms. White wire has 3.6v black wire has 4.1v. That's with the key on, safety levers up

 

[JVRatc2]

I located the "CAN" resistor in the back of the dash and it doesn't have continuity, zero ohms. White wire has 3.6v black wire has 4.1v. That's with the key on, safety levers up

Anyone happen to know the specifics on those CAN BUS resistors other than being 120 ohm?

 

[JVRatc2]

Trying to get this plug apart is a nightmare! The manual refers to these connectors as C4 and M10. My open circuit testing guide led me to this particular connector next and its not wanting to come apart, I'm afraid I'll damage it if I pry too hard. Anyone know if they require a special tool to get them apart?

 

[Coy Lancaster]

Did you check for a allen head screw in the center of connector?

 

[JVRatc2]

Did you check for a allen head screw in the center of connector?

I didn’t Coy but that’s a good idea
Thanks

 

[JVRatc2]

Did you check for a allen head screw in the center of connector?

Got It Coy, there is a bolt right through the center! Thanks a lot man!

 

[katfish_38]

The CAN resistor definitely could be the problem for no movement forward or backwards. Mine on my 850k corroded into. Also you'll need to pull the dash completly off an very throughly ck every wire in it as they are very bad at chaffing into. I had to pretty much completely rewire mine.Hope the images help...good luck.