• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Case 580B weak in foward and reverse

truviking

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
8
Location
Virginia
:Banghead:Banghead:BangheadI just bought a Case 580B CK backhoe and it has hardly and power in the transmission. I am new to heavy equipment but I know the basics. The machine has a hard time climbing the slightest hill or when pushing into a pile it struggles. The motor doesn't bog down ,it just keep running at the same rpm(maybe a tad bit faster) The trans oil pressure gauuge reads in the green when in gear and clutch is released. When depressed it drops in the red or zero. I Just changed the filter in front of the radiator(torque convertor filter?) and my oil levels are ok. The oil does not appear to be comtaminated. What other thing should I check and or replace? I am also having some brake issuses but I do not believe it is having any effect on the sluggish power. Any suggestions on what else may be causing this?
 

bigskyelliott

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
22
Location
montana
no reply's. im to having same problem. the strange thing is it worked good until i changed the trans fluid. let me know what you find
 

Phil

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
1,067
Location
Southeastern Ontario
Occupation
retired operator and mechanic
Here's an answer Truviking, a little late, but it's here.

It's possible your CK is slipping in the clutch packs but more likely you are discovering that these machines are not as efficient as the newer C or D models. With you machine warmed up(drive it around a little), try loading dirt with the front bucket. Rev the engine up, at some point one of the rear tires should spin, even on dry ground. Make sure that you are actually in first gear(to the left and forward) and that a brake is not dragging(shift into neutral on a slight grade and see if she rolls).

A 'B' is a dog when cold( especially in winter), so don't evaluate it until warm. The engine won't usually bog down and any significant grade usually has to be climbed in 1st gear with the engine 'flogged' in some cases.

Probably a good idea to change your shuttle oil(2 drain points), check for any metal in oil at the same time. Phil:)
 
Last edited:

MasterSplinter

Active Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
35
Location
Duluth Minnesota
Occupation
Delivery guy
I just bought a 580b today... it barely moves back and forth. I found that the transmission filter was plugged to the hilt with some black shavings of what appear to be plastic. Could this be a bad hydraulic line falling apart on the inside? The material burns and melts like plastic or rubber... so maybe it's not part of a clutch?

I have pictures, but I dont think it this allows me to put them on as I am new.

Dustin
 

Phil

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
1,067
Location
Southeastern Ontario
Occupation
retired operator and mechanic
Dustin, welcome to the forum:drinkup.
I don't know of any black plastic material in your system. You didn't say if your machine moves now or not. The Case service manual does make reference to a plugged filter as a possible cause for problems. I think I would check the shuttle oil by draining a little out of the 2 drain plugs, and see what is laying in the bottom. One plug is directly below the shuttle oil level dipstick, on the bottom of the torque tube. The other plug is at the front end of the torque tube, more or less under where the torque converter is located. The shuttle dipstick is located on the right rear portion of the cover, located just in front of the gearshift cover.

You might have debris in the valve section now, if the filter bypass has let it by. The shuttle pump pick-up screen may be plugged with whatever this material is, depending on where it came from(a common problem). My thoughts are that the oil cooler hoses are a possible source and I would replace them both. I'm not sure if the oil is filtered first before it goes through the cooler, or vice-versa, I'll have to check the manual. You can use a single wire hydraulic hose when getting new ones made up and pay particular attention to the hose length as this is a tight area to work in(front of rad). Do you have a working dash gauge(clutch pressure)? Phil:)
 
Last edited:

MasterSplinter

Active Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
35
Location
Duluth Minnesota
Occupation
Delivery guy
Wow Phil, You sure know you're 580b's! A week ago I had no idea what one was... I will be out at the land today to check over all of these things. I am having a hard time locating all the correct filters without ordering them.

The machine is missing the backhoe, so I'll just call it a loader for now. When I went to look at it, the steering didn't work at all (it works now after adding 2 quarts of power steering fluid). The machine wouldn't move unless you warmed it up for a half hour. Then it slowly moved backwards and forwards... but just enough to get it to the trailer. We had to push it on with a big tractor instead. I bought a manual off of ebay for this, and spent half a day printing it and getting it into a 6 inch binder. It's been a life saver, but wow there is a lot to learn!

Now I just have to find out where that shuttle pump pick-up screen is and how to clean it up.

The transmission fluid is nice and clear, and right up to the top mark on the dipstick.

I could probably change it, but I hear it takes about 10 gallons to fill back up. Ouch.

Dustin
 

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,361
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Welcome to the forum MasterSplinter. :usa

Phil knows the B better than anyone here. You'll usually catch him here early in morning and late evenings. After 9 PM, forget it. He gets up early and kicks the rooster awake. :D

You didn't answer his question, do you have a working clutch pressure gauge on the dash? Got to post all the info you can think of, then when Phil logs on, he can noodle through it. ;)

Oh, BTW, you need to make your 3rd post so you'll become a Junior Member. Then you can post a pic of your B.
 
Last edited:

MasterSplinter

Active Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
35
Location
Duluth Minnesota
Occupation
Delivery guy
Hey thanks guys... Lots of nice people on here it sounds like. I'll be needin your help!

After changing "all" the fluids, I for Phils message about the shuttle dipstick and where it was located.... I looked and thought "this guy is nuts, there is nothing there"... I looked around for a good hour, then decided to start cleaning inside of the cab. Under 3 or 4 inches of packed down mud and dirt and oil and grease, there lies an orange dipstick for the shuttle. I put 4 gallons in and that seamed to put it up to the line. I fired it up and instantly it drove. It had more power too I think! Not sure how much it's suppose to hold... I have the 660 page manual for it, but I didnt see that fluid level yet.

And to think... all I paid for this thing was 1000 bucks, and its only got 3~k hours on it.
 

MasterSplinter

Active Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
35
Location
Duluth Minnesota
Occupation
Delivery guy
I still get these:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
 

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,361
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Be patient MasterSplinter, takes a little time, but your status will change. ;)
 

bigskyelliott

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
22
Location
montana
hey mastersplinter
napa stores can cross reference your/case filters. if dont have in stock usually can have the next day. i just bought the trans filter a week ago so i remember its #1518.
 

MasterSplinter

Active Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
35
Location
Duluth Minnesota
Occupation
Delivery guy
Picture one is the hydraulic filter... that was plugged. The hydraulics work great though, I was surprised. There must be a filter bypass? I am considering making a nicer counterweight out of concrete... Any idea what weight range I should go for? I heard the backhoe should weigh around 1800lb... so maybe 1000lb counterweight instead?

Does anyone know where I could get a new filter housing for the hydraulic filter? The threads are cross threaded on mine pretty bad, Ive had it on and off twice but it takes about 5 minutes to line them up right. I dont know if it will go back together again the next time I change it.
 

MasterSplinter

Active Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
35
Location
Duluth Minnesota
Occupation
Delivery guy
more pics
 

Attachments

  • DSC00708.JPG
    DSC00708.JPG
    36.9 KB · Views: 3,124
  • DSC00709.jpg
    DSC00709.jpg
    63.4 KB · Views: 3,031
  • DSC00752.jpg
    DSC00752.jpg
    36 KB · Views: 3,003
  • DSC00702.jpg
    DSC00702.jpg
    40.9 KB · Views: 3,018
  • DSC00729.jpg
    DSC00729.jpg
    40.9 KB · Views: 3,026

MasterSplinter

Active Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
35
Location
Duluth Minnesota
Occupation
Delivery guy
The rear window is smashed and tape is holding it together. They want 170$ for the glass... I was wondering if anyone has ever put lexan or plexiglass in theirs? What thickness would you go, 1/4 inch enough?

Sorry for all the questions!
 

Phil

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
1,067
Location
Southeastern Ontario
Occupation
retired operator and mechanic
Not sure about the counterweight question. Tach cables break often on these so the hour meter reads only the time that it's spinning. Yes, the filter you show is not the shuttle oil filter but the hydraulic oil filter. Likely material from piston packing. Best to ask Atcoequip for any in-depth hydraulic questions.

Used hydraulic filter housings may still be out there. Lots of used parts suppliers out there. Some of these come off quite hard and the hex head gets worn off. Plexiglass works well for windows, use regular plexi, 1/4" is good. Don't ever wipe it with anything after installation, use a garden hose only. Keep the paper on it until it's in and use a carpenters hand saw very carefully to cut it. A 4 1/2" metal grinder will smooth the corners after cutting. Plexi will give you years of service and can be cut slightly smaller than the original glass for a fast install even with old hard rubber moulding.

Front spindles are a weakness on these machines. Bearing bores get worn, spindles get worn, thrust bearings disintegrate. A real money pit. There was a mechanic here a while back that used ABS plumbing pipe, to sleeve the bore from top to bottom. Apparently it worked well for a set time. Phil:)
 
Last edited:

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,342
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
MasterSplinter, I have used both and Acrlyic (Plexiglass) and polycarbonate (Lexan). The acrlyic is terrible. It scratches easily , draws dust to the surface like a magnet and to top it off , it is really brittle at freezing temperatures.
Polycarbonate is more expensive but it much more durable and doesn't get as much dust stuck to it like acrilyic. Also unlike acrilic when you clean it with a soft damp cloth you will get minimal scratches. Be sure to wash either one with a lot water or windshield cleaner before drying them.
Actually I hated both, and have replaced them all except the rear one with glass. It is the next one to go! Glass is expensive but for me the usefull life of the plastics is too short. I wish I had used the money I spent for plastic and applied it to glass windows.
 

MasterSplinter

Active Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
35
Location
Duluth Minnesota
Occupation
Delivery guy
Thanks again for everyones help! I'm not sure if what I will do for replacing the window... I like that it lifts above your head for more ventilation though. Remember that the hoe is missing, so its just a loader now. Does anyone have a favorite junk yard in mind that has scrapped equipment? Maybe I could find a hydraulic filter housing there... or maybe it would be worse than the one I have.

Still can't find much info on how heavy to make a counterweight. Maybe I'll start at 1000lb and make it so I can add to it....

The wheels are spinning (in my head)
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,342
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
MasterSplinter, I did a little research about your filter housing on the Case Parts website. That spin-on type filter doesn't show up in the 580B parts listing.
I found it right away in the 580C listing.
Part # D61903 HEAD ASSEMBLY
Part # D61948 is the filter housing (the spin-on canister)
If they are available it may be the easiest and cheapest way to go.
 

fpgm04

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
214
Location
USA
Regarding your question on 580B rear weight. The information I have seen on a 580B list a rear counterweight at 1400 lb., so you might want to plan to be able to add above your 1000 lb estimate to at least this amount.
 
Top