1. Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
  2. ALL NEW MEMBERS READ THIS FIRST!! Thank you for joining Heavy Equipment Forums! If you are new to forums we communicate with "Threads", please search our threads to see if your topic may have already been answered and if not then click "Post New Thread" in the appropriate forum. This will allow all of our members to see your question and give you the best chance to be answered. After you've made a number of posts you will graduate to Full Member status where you'll see a few more privileges. Following these guidelines will help make this the best resource for heavy equipment on the net. Thanks for joining us and I hope you enjoy your stay!!

Case 580B 1974 - replacing the radiator

Discussion in 'Tractor/Loader/Backhoes' started by JBP, Aug 22, 2015.

  1. JBP

    JBP Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2015
    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    SoMD
    Hello. I'm going to try to replace the radiator. In addition to some aftermarket leaks, it has the lower hydr fluid cooler.

    Questions:

    Radiator is the A39345? That's what I come up with on the electronics part catalogue.

    Do I ONLY have to remove the two water hoses, two hydr lines, and the two bolts holding the A35574 radiator support bracket? Then pray?

    Are there any aftermarket sources for parts I should avoid? Is $650 for the replacement radiator a reasonable price?

    Since I'll have the lower hose off of the block is it okay or advisable to try and flush the engine using that inlet with a water hose?

    Thanks.

    radiators case 1974 580B.jpg

    JBP
     
  2. Blueboy

    Blueboy Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2015
    Messages:
    319
    Occupation:
    Machinist. God bless America ! ! !
    Location:
    pittsburgh Pa
    I would check other sources to see if the numbers match or call Case. And while you got them on the phone see what they want one for.


    You should pray first.


    $650? Depends, how bad are the leaks? Maybe a radiator shop would be cheaper.


    If anyone used stop leak I would get that crap out.


    Have fun;)

    OK, back to MythBusters... Oh no, it's over.
     
  3. bowen

    bowen Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2011
    Messages:
    540
    Occupation:
    Electrical Panel Builder
    Location:
    N. GA USA
  4. JBP

    JBP Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2015
    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    SoMD
    Well it is out. In addition to what I thought I had to do above, I also had to unbolt the radiator mount plate once I got the radiator partially out. Also has to remove the drain stopcock assembly. Plus, in anticipation of the re-install i removed the hydraulic pump cover. Those 4 big ol bolts were a pain in the katoochie. That whole frame that supports the radiator, pump and front ballast was jam-packed with dirt. Spent an hour just breaking that stuff up and spooning it out. I guess it was a couple of decades worth of 'work' there.

    The radiator that was in the hoe was from 'Camp Springs Radiator'. They've been in business since 84, so I might give them a call.

    20150823_174458 camp springs radiator part 024813 b .jpg
     
  5. JBP

    JBP Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2015
    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    SoMD
    Thanks for the replies folks, I'll see what the radiator shop says.

    JBP
     
  6. JBP

    JBP Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2015
    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    SoMD
    The replacement radiator is in. I had to have two new hydraulic lines fabricated, because the connections on the new radiator were male instead of female. Have run it some, seems to be all together. now i am welding the hoe fingers back on. They were previously welded on, but very poorly. The hoe's mating teeth are nasty stubs now. Stumps to dig out, about 50 of them, mostly cedar.