Case 40xt starting problem help please

[soapstoneguy]

I have a case 40xt. I replaced the battery this past spring and back in June had a little problem when I put the key in and went to turn it over it just clicked (clicking sound back by the starter) I turned it off, stomped my foot on the floormat (where the batter is, there is a little gap between the floormat and the battery itself so I wasn't stomping directly on the battery) and it fired right up. Haven't had any problems with the machine then all of a sudden the other day when i turn the key i get nothing...just some clicking (which sounded like it was coming from the starter) so I checked my battery, had it tested and checked out. Pulled the starter off and had it rebuilt but after installing I just got the same result. I did notice that the key is a bit sloppy in the ignition so I'm wondering if it is a problem in there. I don't know if the cold weather has anything to do with it or just the temperature change in general...
Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks guys!

 

[MNSnow]

Solenoid?

 

[Georgia Iron]

My 75xt has some wiring issues. The is a connector near that area that might be loose. Check your relays and see if they are dirty. Jump the start and see if it will roll over. Probably a simple wiring issue.

 

[soapstoneguy]

My 75xt has some wiring issues. The is a connector near that area that might be loose. Check your relays and see if they are dirty. Jump the start and see if it will roll over. Probably a simple wiring issue.

Strange, fired up this morning. How do I open the box where my glow plugs are and the ignition box? Don't want to break anything.

 

[74inchShovel]

I would start checking battery ground, would not put a switch in it if it's making clicking sound switch is doing its job. It just sends 12 volts to solenoid, most likely the source of clicking. You did clean battery terminals, right? Cold weather always is hard on batteries.

 

[soapstoneguy]

I checked the battery first thing. Had it tested for for amps, volts etc and it all checked out. It's almost brand new as well. Moved to the starter, rebuilt that and still had the same issue. When I turn the key over sometimes the lights on the display light up and other times they are really faded but then light up.
It fired this morning twice and ran fine so I'm thinking it might be electrical. However, I'm wondering what are some good areas to start checking first?
Also, how do I open the box where the lights are and ignition is? Don't want to break it.

Thanks guys!!

 

[707]

bad ground somewhere. use a jumper cable and case ground the starter with one lead and a good chassis ground see if it makes a difference.

 

[radiotech]

You might want to try a NEW battery... Deep Cycle Marine/RV/Starting battery. Automotive batteries can fail after a few months (even the best most expensive ones)...Here is why...

I have a case 1840 and I had the same issues a few times so just for fun I put the charger on the battery for 20 mins before I fired it up and it would start no problem. I shut the machine down for an hour and try to restart and only the click of the solenoid on the starter So put the charger on the battery again and 20 mins later fired right up. I thought it was an electrical issue so I pulled the starter off and rebuilt it and same thing. I replaced the battery and that seem to fix it for a couple of months then it started doing it again. For the next 2 years I'd just put the charger on the battery before using it (I always checked the battery voltage and have my 12v even before I hook up the charger). Over a year ago I had my truck in for service and a woman was in the shop with her ram 2500 telling the tech what was happening ...and damn wasn't it the same issue I was having with the case 1840 solenoid just clicked and the battery was at 12v. while I waited for my truck the tech came out and told her they couldn't get the truck to do it again (started every time) they even did a batrery load test and the test said the battery was good. So she said "well I guess I wait till next time it happens and I'll call you so you cam hear it" the tech said that was a great idea. The tech went into the shop to get her truck and click no start. So after 45 mins the tech came out and told her it was the battery. She told him the battery was only 6 months old. The tech asked her how is the truck used.. in town or farm work? She said mostly on the farm. The tech asked on rough off road type use? She replied she has to use 4X all the time and she was also replacing the struts every 4-5 months. The tech bought the battery from the tuck and the batt tester up front and tested the battery.. tester showed OK the tech did the load test again but this time with a rubber mallot he hit the battery ...test was fail "bad battery". Tech said with cheap (even big name batteries) they will not stand up to rough conditions... the shaking and banging can case to plates in the battery to seperate just enough to work most times but fail others. Another tech was at the desk and watched all this and said he used to work as a mechanic for a large construction company and had to always replace batteries until 1 day they were stuck for a battery...he had to use a deep cycle marine/rv / starting battery and it not not only worked but that battery and that machine had no starting issues for over 2 years. She bought a marine battery. So I asked the tech working on my truck about using a marine battery on my 1840 he told me make sure its deep cycle and starting not just deep cycle. I asked why and he told me the batteries are buoilt for rough use "boats don't have shocks or any suspension" so the plate spacers are re-enforced.. only down side to deep cycle batteries is they don't hold power for long in the cold (2 months max) -10C. He told me if the machine is going to sit for over a month to pull the battery out in winter and keep in a warm place. I put a 730 CCA (true 520CCA) deep cycle marine/rv/starting battery in my 1840 over a year ago and haven't had any issues with starting yet.