Brake chamber tools to make it easier?

[heymccall]

I've had a rash of 30/30 failures here, and it's getting aggravating.
Sockets aren't deep enough to cage them, can't get an impact on the top stud nut, can rotates on bench while caging them, torch blows out cutting the springs, guessing at pushrod length when maxi spring is broken, etc...

Anybody have any suggestions on tools to make it less aggravating?

 

[mitch504]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-lis...+impact+socket&qid=1590116842&sr=8-8&dchild=1

Works great

 

[mitch504]

never tried it, but looks handy
https://www.kienedieseltools.com/product/26201/kiene-spring-brake-3rd-hand-tool

 

[heymccall]

never tried it, but looks handy
https://www.kienedieseltools.com/product/26201/kiene-spring-brake-3rd-hand-tool

Unfortunately, here in rust belt, the service can (stud side) is always rotted, not to mention clevis pins seized and the clevis is almost always galled to the pushrod.

 

[mitch504]

Well, I'm a southerner, but...

a southern fertilizer hauler, that's why I've never tried it.

I do love my Sunex extra deep socket though, fits over the whole caging tool

 

[petepilot]

I've had a rash of 30/30 failures here, and it's getting aggravating.
Sockets aren't deep enough to cage them, can't get an impact on the top stud nut, can rotates on bench while caging them, torch blows out cutting the springs, guessing at pushrod length when maxi spring is broken, etc...

Anybody have any suggestions on tools to make it less aggravating?

u can make you`re own 3/4 deep well with 2 cheap hf sockets welded together and center bored out of the first one

 

[petepilot]

never tried it, but looks handy
https://www.kienedieseltools.com/product/26201/kiene-spring-brake-3rd-hand-tool

you can diy this thing for les than 20 bucks

 

[petepilot]

Unfortunately, here in rust belt, the service can (stud side) is always rotted, not to mention clevis pins seized and the clevis is almost always galled to the pushrod.

start with a hot wrench` if you have to replace the whole thing except the slack adjuster

 

[mitch504]

you can diy this thing for les than 20 bucks

Yeah, but I almost never need one, corrosion gets 'em first. Most of those Kiene tools are easily copyable, but he does have some good ideas. I talked to the couple that runs the place when they were first starting out, he was a truck mechanic that started a company to build his ideas.

 

[petepilot]

Yeah, but I almost never need one, corrosion gets 'em first. Most of those Kiene tools are easily copyable, but he does have some good ideas. I talked to the couple that runs the place when they were first starting out, he was a truck mechanic that started a company to build his ideas.

I just thought the price was silly . that clamp is on the shelf at home depot for about 9 bucks` with just a little modification you have a 3rd hand

 

[walkerv]

I've had a rash of 30/30 failures here, and it's getting aggravating.
Sockets aren't deep enough to cage them, can't get an impact on the top stud nut, can rotates on bench while caging them, torch blows out cutting the springs, guessing at pushrod length when maxi spring is broken, etc...

Anybody have any suggestions on tools to make it less aggravating?

What part is failing? I only cage them if the park side diaphragm is failed. I think marathon has a chart for figuring your pushrod length no need to guess i have used it a couple times and found it to be real close. Not much you can do on that one nut always trapped and have to wrench off other then tell people to quit over tightening them i use a wrench by hand on them that is it . Caging on bench i have a pipe threaded Schrader valve i stole out of an old junk L9000 , put it in emergency port , put 100 psi on it and put caging bolt in by hand . And as mentioned that deep socket is real handy but i dont use it unless i have too.

 

[Truck Shop]

I just typed out how to change out a air can but because people don't follow instructions I erased it. I change out a minim of three a week and it takes about 12 minutes per can to install a
piggy back, but because of liability reasons {NO Way Jose}.

But you can put a air fitting in the new air can and air it up to install the cage bolt on the bench, that's the only tip I will give.

 

[suladas]

Unless it's a side of the road fix, i'm wondering why anyone would screw around with trying to repair them at around only $60 to replace? I tried caging one on my trailer awhile back, waste of time so rusty.

 

[heymccall]

Caging on bench i have a pipe threaded Schrader valve i stole out of an old junk L9000 , put it in emergency port , put 100 psi on it and put caging bolt in by hand . And as mentioned that deep socket is real handy but i dont use it unless i have too.

Duh <smacks head> I have pipe threaded Schrader valves on the truck.
Thanks for that.

 

[mitch504]

I just use a quick connect to cage them on the bench, plug the hose on, put in bolt, unplug hose, air comes out.

I use my extra-deep socket caging them on the truck, mostly

 

[Truck Shop]

Back the slack adjuster/shoes all the way off till slack wants to stop-then keep backing til slack has pivoted over center and traveled another 2 1/2". Once that's done the emergency side of
the can has nothing to push on because you have pulled the service side stem back in the can. This is done with brakes released.

 

[dieseldog5.9]

These look handy, I dont personally own a set, thought about buying a set a few times, we are heavy into the rust belt and have snow Nov 1 to April 1.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5054-Air-Brake-Service/dp/B000RT90UU/ref=psdc_15707261_t1_B0184DIQWI

Because of rust I always change the whole can, this is a choice the owner of the trucks and I made for single axle oil delivery trucks that are always in the salt. However If we have to change a can on the road I will change the back can to get home.

I also use the 90 degree method which a cheat sheet is provided by Haldex at an airbrake certification class, if you do not have the certification your supplier of brake cans probably holds a class in your area on a regular basis or when needed.

 

[Mike L]

I always take a piece of mechanics wire and feed it into the can next to the rod down to the plate that the rod attaches to. Then I fold the end over and pull out the wire. Now you have the correct length to cut the rod. Secondly i always never seize the mounting nuts and Clovis pin. You never know if you’ll be the next guy to change that can.

 

[Truck Shop]

Services on our trailers the slack adjuster pins get sprayed with a penetrating oil called Pipe Brake. In winter the de-icing fluids used on the roads will seize up the pins which in turn
can cause the slack to ratchet up on adjustment. If you keep them sprayed-less problems all the way around and the pins come out when you need to remove them. While your
greasing the S-cams and checking wheel seals/brakes spray the slacks. Pretty easy.

 

[heymccall]

Google can't find "pipe brake". Spelling? Wrong name?