• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Bore welding help

Volvomad

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
476
Location
Ireland
I fabricobbled a borewelder .Just finished and tried a run on 95 mill id heavy pipe .It sucks going up hill. The first 2 rounds had frive failure when my slip ring welded up. The next 2 went ok except for up hill . It takes for ever to upload pics so l will put the welder up later on if it escapes the trash20200302_212529.jpg 20200302_212558.jpg he trash
 

Tugger2

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2018
Messages
1,366
Location
British Columbia
Has anyone used a dual shield wire for bore welds. Every bore welder i have seen has been using hard wire . I have hand welded many larger id bores as well as OD buildups with flux core /Co2 very succcesfully. Maybe the tubular wire dosent lend itself to the rotation as well as hard wire?
 

Volvomad

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
476
Location
Ireland
I am just using ER70 S-6 1.2mm and argoshield . My voltage and current meters were dead before I got the welder .
I can weld , but I aint no welder and rarely weld vertical , and would always go up in a U shaped weave .
 

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
28,979
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Are you on Facebook by any chance.?
There is a line boring and welding group on there that many knowedgeable people contribute to. I know RayF of this parish is one of them. You could try sending him a PM to get the details of where to find it. I don't use Facebook to it's no good asking me.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,257
Location
Canada
Dual shield would be too hot and the slag would be a big problem on an automatic system. You're using too big of wire(.045"), way too hot and trying to put too big of a bead. Gravity is taking over before the puddle has time to solidify. Use a .8mm(.030") or .9mm(.035") wire and turn the heat down. Even manually, vertical up is difficult without a weave. 1.2mm wire could be used for some applications but would also cause more frustration because it has to run hotter to get proper fusion. Would be easier to preheat the metal and have your heat turned down than trying to speed the job up. The pics. I've seen of bore welding are usually lots of narrow beads. Less heat and faster travel speed lets the puddle solidify before it gets too big. Will need to do some experimenting with heat and travel speed.
 
Last edited:

Volvomad

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
476
Location
Ireland
Thanks guys . I am not on facebook (yet) . I was going to use 1 mm but i thought the bigger wire would be less likely to twist . I didnt get near it today . Hopefully tomorrow for more messing .
 

Theweldor

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
556
Location
Western, NY
Occupation
The Village Idiot
Use .030 wire, Set your voltage between 17 and 18 volts. Find the sweet spot in that range for your wire feed speed and your rotational speed. It will lay in there to were it looks the same all around.
 

jcb jeff

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Messages
394
Location
United Kingdom
i do line boring and id welding.
What voltage you running /wire speed looks like may be a bit much try about 17.9 volts and depending on dia of bore play with rotation speed. Other factors that play a big part is the welder its self inverter migs are the way forward as they are able to change from down hill to up hill nicely.
 

Tugger2

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2018
Messages
1,366
Location
British Columbia
Has anyone experienced any underbead cracking or delamination of the finished bore done with hard wire? Im assuming doing a cut prior to buildup to keep the finish out of the heat affected zone.In my world of welding and fabricating hard wire has always been for 1/4" and under ,gauge metal,tanks and cab type stuff. Always used flux core with co2 for anything structural or repairs. So welding on heavy sections that require line boring seems a contradictory practice. I know its now done all the time, im just curious as to the long term end result.I think bore welders are an awsome invention after years of 7018 buildup . I plan to buy one or create one if i get ambitious, but i h dont do that much line boring these days.
 

Theweldor

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
556
Location
Western, NY
Occupation
The Village Idiot
I always take a cut first before welding the bore. It cleans the crud from the bores and trues them up so they weld better. If you are getting undercut you are running way to hot. You can watch the weld bead nice knit into the parent metal when things are going well. Pretty narrow sweet spot there but it is variable jut a wee bit.
 

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
28,979
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
I always take a cut first before welding the bore. It cleans the crud from the bores and trues them up so they weld better.
I always thought that was SOP for the exact reasons you said, better fusion and a more even thickness of bead. Having said that not long ago I had a "bore welding expert" tell me not that it was uneccessary. I canvassed opinions from various HEF members who are into bore welding including RayF and as a result the "bore welding expert" was shown the door and told never to come back.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,257
Location
Canada
Welding is all about proper fusion and the better the prep the better the chances for success. Good welds can be made on poorly prepped and even dirty base metal and bad welds can be made on perfectly prepped clean base metal. That's why they do X-rays and ultrasound on critical welds. I think with bore welding the least you'd want to do is run a flap disc or sanding drum in the bore to get it perfectly clean and free of any dirt or rust. Noticeable high spots could be taken down as well so the arc length/wire stick out would be consistent around the entire bore. I can imagine there are situations where it would be a PIA to cut the bore prior to welding and then having to remove the boring set up to do the welding and then setting up again to do the final boring. In most cases there have to be brackets and fixtures tacked in place to do the necessary repairs. You can't run real hot so preheat can compensate for that. As a rule thick sections (3/4"+) should be preheated for any welding to prevent a quenching effect that could/would lead to a failure. I think this would be paramount for bore welding.
 

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
28,979
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Dave, most bore welders use the same bearing mounts to run the bar and the welder, so basically there is one setup then after the initial cut you simply slide the bar out and slide the bore welder head in, then do the reverse and reinstall the bar to make the final cut.
 

Volvomad

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
476
Location
Ireland
My welder uses the same feed and bearings as the boring bar ,so I did pre bore 1.5 mm . I welded my 2 bores . I cant see much as my torch is not cantilevered from one side . It is a bit rough . I need to attack 1 side with a grinder before I start cutting . I did preheat and covered after to slow cooling .
 
Top