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Bobcat x-change on cat 304ccr

Discussion in 'Compact Excavators' started by hvguy, Aug 21, 2019.

  1. hvguy

    hvguy Senior Member

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    I recently purchased a 2007 Caterpillar 304 CCR, unfortunately the bucket is cracked, I welded it up but it's going to need a new bucket sooner than later, and I would like to expand and buy a smaller bucket for trenches. My problem is that nobody in my area can get a bucket, I can only get them on eBay at best.

    There is a bobcat dealer right down the road that has buckets but they only fit the bobcat x-change system, does anybody know if there is a bobcat machine with 40 mm pins on the quick change adapter that attaches to the stick?
    IMG_20190820_133744.jpg IMG_20190816_173932.jpg
    IMG_20190819_173921.jpg
     
  2. uffex

    uffex Senior Member

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    Good day
    I have attached a few parts of the information available on the web that may of use to you.
    Kind regards
    Uffex
     

    Attached Files:

  3. hvguy

    hvguy Senior Member

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    That's handy, but you can see the bucket has been welded on quite a few times. Especially around the pin sections.

    It's honestly a pile of junk. Just wanna buy a new quality unit.
     
  4. StumpyWally

    StumpyWally Senior Member

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  5. hvguy

    hvguy Senior Member

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    So it turns out I'm an idiot and my pins are 45.....

    Got that knowledge from another page somewhere. However on yours I see it says isj and osj. And there is no CCR model.

    What's isj?
     
  6. Tags

    Tags Senior Member

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    You're going to need more than pin size....pin spacing, front pin to back pin, and width to fit your stick. It would be easier to buy a new bucket. I've used these guys for buckets https://www.phoenixequipmentsales.com/ and also these guys too http://www.excavatorthumb.com/excavator-buckets.html. I've been real happy with both places. I always spec Esco style teeth on my buckets because I have yet to loose one or knock one off. A 24" bucket for that machine will probably be around $1100.00 or so opposed to buying a bobcat x change hitch AND a bucket, plus the time it would take to make it fit....
     
  7. hvguy

    hvguy Senior Member

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    Finding this attachment from a salvaged machine is turning into a task lol. No luck yet
     
  8. pondo

    pondo Well-Known Member

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    Hello, I have the x attach and highly recommend fighting / spending $ to get it. I am not in love w actual bobcat machines, but I switch buckets/ attachments several times in hour.
    I just cringe remember hammering on pins to switch from bucket to auger....
    Now I carry two buckets w all the time. Small for tough digging and big smooth edge for bailing or back filling. I bounce back and forth between the so easily I gain lots production...

    Also if u need something special for project u can rent from your local dealer.
     
  9. f311fr1

    f311fr1 Senior Member

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    Fleeco has new buckets in stock. They sell direct.
     
  10. NepeanGC

    NepeanGC Active Member

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    I've got a hydraulic bobcat X-change coupler and 2 buckets sitting here... Would take some work to adapt it though I would think
     
    Tags likes this.
  11. Tags

    Tags Senior Member

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    I do understand that the bobcat Xchange is nice, but, I think you could buy a hydraulic pin grabber coupler and a bucket or two and still be ahead of the game due to the amount of fab work and plumbing/electrical you'd have to figure out to get the Xchange to work. I think Cat sells a manual pin grabber coupler for that machine too.....
     
    CM1995 likes this.
  12. hvguy

    hvguy Senior Member

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    I forgot to update my post! So. I got the coupler in from a bobcat e45, it took .37" in shims to fit the stick, and the link didn't need any, I did have to notch the top a little to clear my thumb that's VERY welded on there, but other than that, it fits perfectly. 45mm brand new pins has it feeling like a new machine. I was worried about the area that I cut out, but so far so good.
    IMG_20191017_184653.jpg IMG_20191017_221519.jpg IMG_20191018_132550.jpg
     
  13. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    Sorry came across this a bit late in the day. ISJ stands for Inside Japan. ISJ machines were originally built in Japan only for the local market, but they sometimes end up elsewhere in the World where they are often referred to as "grey market imports" when they land in other countries. (In many cases it's difficult to find parts & service information in English for these models)
    OSJ stands for Outside Japan. Anything that was built anywhere in the World (including Japan) but which was designed for worldwide sale with no specific market in mind.
     
    CM1995 likes this.
  14. Welder Dave

    Welder Dave Senior Member

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    I don't agree with what it says in the 1st attachment about a repair weld being only 75% strength of the original weld. A lot of times a repair weld can be superior to a mass produced factory weld. With a repair you can follow the proper procedures and insure the quality of the repair. I welded the swing tower pivot back together on my Backhoe and it is much stronger than the original weld. Original weld on the bushing in the 1" plate was a single pass fillet weld on either side and the plate ripped right off along the edge of the weld. When I repaired it I beveled it for more penetration, pre-heated and used a 6010 root pass followed by several passes of 7018. Finished fillet weld was the same size but had at about 3 times the penetration due to the bevel.
     
  15. hvguy

    hvguy Senior Member

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    Bevel with safety squints, weld it up with some 6011 because I fucking suck at 7018, grind flat, cut out a plate, because more iron means it'll last longer, weld in place and grind clean. Because a grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't.
     
  16. Welder Dave

    Welder Dave Senior Member

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    6011 alone isn't the best and more iron doesn't necessarily mean it will last longer or be stronger. For a weld repair (or any repair for that matter) on something critical it's best to get a professional if you don't possess the required skill to do the repair. The only thing worse than having to do a repair is to do a lousy repair that makes it 10 times harder to do a proper repair. I pulled my engine out but took it to shop to have rebuilt because they have the expertise to do it right.
     
  17. hvguy

    hvguy Senior Member

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    Heavier is always better, same with more metal at a weak point. And if I can't do something, I'll watch how it's done on YouTube and do it myself. The only thing I can't do is make hydraulic hoses ... And that's only because the cost of all the fittings and crimper is outside of something I care for. Rebuilds, in frames, cylinders, rear main seals etc. Remember, even the master had his first time.

    Oh and I'm poor, aka, I have to do all my own stunts.
     
  18. uffex

    uffex Senior Member

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    Good day Welder Dave
    Thank you for your response I can appreciate that you are experienced in your field as are the metallurgist whom made the statement after some considerable investigation into the issue.
    kind regards
    Uffex
     
  19. Welder Dave

    Welder Dave Senior Member

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    If a crack starts at a weld is generally considered a weld fault not a base metal fault. The fault could be from improper welding procedure, wrong filler metal, wrong or flawed base metal or a combination of all these factors. To make a general statement that a repair weld is only 75% of the original weld is not an accurate statement.