Cftyson
Member
T-Bird, I got all my parts from KTBaugh.
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BD2G steering problem
- Thread starter aocustom
- Start date
Cftyson
Member
OK. I don't know what happened. Ran it a couple of hours yesterday and it slipped on the left side. Needed fuel so I added 8 gallons and ran it today. First few minutes it was slipping and then it started pulling like a monster and turning on a dime. Ran 8 gallons out and it's still a monster. Going to keep my fingers crossed !!!! Thanks T-bird for your input.
T-Bird
Active Member
it may have just needed to get everything seated in. Kent Baugh is good to deal with, my clutches, brake drum, brake band all came from him as well. however he did not have the springs at the time. the track thats stalling on mine is the other side that i have not redone the clutch pack in. i suspect it has some broken springs in it like the right side did (4 out of 8) broken on the right hand side.........
T-Bird
Active Member
darin ray see post #72 is good to deal with also. I have delt with both of these gentelmen and now ther are my go to guys when i need parts.
Cftyson
Member
Ok Guys, it's been a couple of months but I have been busy on other projects. Back to the Sterring problem. I have talked to Darin and Kent and they have given me some tips but nothing has worked yet, so let's see if anyone can figure this out. I am baffled. Left side not pulling strong. Replaced plates, clutches, springs, drum and brake. Put back together and after a few minutes started pulling great. After running a couple of days this is what it is doing. Both tracks will pull great. Then all of the sudden pull right turn and left side quits pulling. Can sometimes tap brake pedal and it starts pulling again. Go another 20 feet and try to turn right and same thing again, but not always. When it is pulling it will climb the side of a building, but when it stops, it's like the left side has disengaged. This is an intermitent problem, so I belive it it is not in the clutch pack, but instead somehow the left side just doesn't seem to have any power going to the clutch pack or somehow the pack is being disengaged as if the trowout clutch is releasing. This thing only has a little over 1000 hrs on it and is in perfect shape otherwise. However, I am about ready to take the torch to it for scrap metal. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. I live in Charlotte, NC and have been looking for someone around here that would work on it for me, that understands it better, but no luck so far.
I know the left hand side of my BS3F hangs up, and does not always return to the fully engaged position. The vertical shaft seems to be rusty, but the previous owner had added a bolt to the linkage that allows you to manually return the lever to the engaged position (forward) and force the rotation of the vertical shafts that control the clutch and the brake band. I suspect that these vertical shafts are rusty, at it sat out in the Georgia rain before I got it. I did remove the drain plugs and let the water out when I got it, and removed the covers to let it dry. Still have not had the time or the inclination to clean it up, keep thinking that if I do it will need the clutch pack and other stuff, but it runs fine for now as long as I push the lever fully forward.
Bubba
Bubba
T-Bird
Active Member
what bubbagoat said. it sounds like something is in a bind not letting the clutches fully engage. how much free play in the steering levers? they may need to be adjusted, FWIW mine have almost 3 inches of free travel at the top of the lever. dont give up, i have been working the snot out of both my bd2f & bs3f. they will do more than i expected in the rocky soil we have in south west virginia, it just takes a little longer. I have been grubbing trees with root balls in excess of 8 feet in diameter with the loader, never expected a small machine to do that untill i tried it.
kokoy
Member
i work a machine excavator mitsubishi ms 110-2, it has a problem the swing does not move, i need help...
Cftyson
Member
Ok. It's been a few months I know, but I just wanted to update everyone on my left side steering problem that was causing me headaches in case somebody else runs into it. The machine was slipping and not pulling on the left side, so I rebuilt the steering brake bundle. It still had the problem where it would come and go and finally just quit all together. I pulled the entire section apart to include the release clutch. I found the flange to be a little bent and determined the shifting fork was binding at times and would work great other times. I replaced the flange and rebuilt the release clutch section and put it back together. All is great in Mitsi land now. That for all the help and suggestions everyone had.
Glad it's fixed
That's the way to go, glad you got your problem solved, and nice to see you posted the solution. It may help somebody else one day.
I love my mitsubishi's, even though I don't run them much, they are great when I need them.
That's the way to go, glad you got your problem solved, and nice to see you posted the solution. It may help somebody else one day.
I love my mitsubishi's, even though I don't run them much, they are great when I need them.
T-Bird
Active Member
well its been almost a year since i was in the RH side of the machine with no problems, now I am having trouble in the other side. already have it torn down but I have a quick question. what have you guys been using to compress the clutch springs? I had a rigged up mess to compress mine and I am afraid of one of those springs putting a eye out or some other body harm. Thanks
T-Bird
Active Member
never mind, I fabb'd up a tool just a few minutes ago. It didnt work perfect but made one good prototype for the next one. if it would have worked the way I had planned it would have done two at the same time, and with a few minor mods it will do two at a time.
T-Bird
Active Member
bubba. I will try and get a photo up next chance i get back over to the shop. there really is no good way to make this tool cheep. basicaly all i used was a section of 3/16 or 1/4 key steel cut into two lenghts just short enough to go inside the inner drum. I layed each one on the washer just outside of the retainer and took a piece of 1/4 X 2" plate and welded the key steel to it, drilled a hole in the center and ran a piece of threaded rod down thru the whole thing with a washer and nut on the other side. it did take some minor tweeking to be able to get the c clips out and you really do have to watch what you are doing and be carefull.
c heck your pump connection or for being loose or
Check the pump for being loosei work a machine excavator mitsubishi ms 110-2, it has a problem the swing does not move, i need help...
sidehiller
Member
BD2Folks,
I just finished the Steering Clutch job about two weeks ago and thought I would share my notes. Cheers.
Steering Clutch Repair
Mitsubishi BD2g2
5-6-2012
I wrote these notes up for those who might be facing Steering Clutch repairs to their small bulldozer. I am NOT a mechanic or machinist and I only have a “farm-type shop”. Cash flow dictates I maintain my own equipment. Here are some suggestions/notes you might want to keep in mind when repairing steering clutches on a small dozer.
Situation: The right steering clutch actuator was leaking. This actuator is nothing more than a hydraulic cylinder in the shape of a 5” diameter donut. When hydraulic fluid is pumped into this cylinder it pushes clutch forks into the dry clutch pack letting the clutch slip a little, thus the dozer turns right. Two o-rings to keep the oil inside the cylinder rather than in the bottom of the dozer cavity and generally making a nasty mess of things. My large((about 4inch diam)) o-ring was broken, thus the hydraulic oil was leaking/pooling in the brake/clutch cavity. This AWOL hydraulic fluid could also ruin your fiber clutch disks and brake linings.
Notes:
1.) Better get a Service Manual, in order to make a game plan.
2.) Use lots of rusty bolt penetrating oil and lots of patience. Snapping a rusty bolt off in that cavity could set you up for some problematic easy-out work.
3.) Contrary to manual you do NOT have to remove the tracks to do this repair.
4.) Support the dozer off the ground with timbers so you can move tracks with a come-along.
This allows you to access the trackside flange bolts thru the trackside access port.
5.) Above the track sprocket is an access port which allows you to loosen the trackside clutchpack/brake bolts. You will need about 24” of socket set extensions to reach these bolts from outside the machine.
6.) Have a torch handy to help loosen the bolts that hold clutchpack/brake to the trackside final drive flange and inboard bevel driveshaft flange. PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE!
7.) My dozer was very rusty in the rightside clutchpack/brake((CB)) cavity, situated within the frame. Left side was much better/dry. Brake dust and leaking oil truly made a blackhole mess. If this is your situation I would recommend powerwashing with some detergent first.
8.) After removing all flange bolts the the clutchpack/brake((CB)) should lift out in one unit, IN THEORY! I used a come-along suspended from the roof frame and sling around the CB to crane it out of the cavity. I also used and 18” steel bar((brass would have been better! Where can I get one?))with 2 lb hammer to jar the CB from its mating to the two flanges. Be careful but firm with the hammer.
9.) Remove bolt, bolt keeper and specialty heavy washer from end of driveshaft. These parts hold the inboard flange on bevel gear driveshaft.
10.) Make a stout puller to remove the inboard flange from the driveshaft. The driveshaft is splined and maybe rusted. To remove this flange you will need to use oil penetrant, some heat, a CRAZY amount of torque on the puller. A couple of days for the penetrant to soak in, under puller pressure. I felt as if I was going to break that flange any minute then it popped loose. A wise friend suggested a multihole, 1” thick puller. I agree, the stouter the better and you may be able to protect the flange that way. I also hammered on the puller abit to jar it loose. There is not much room in that cavity, use the above mentioned bar/hammer combination. When you finally get the flange loose, without breaking it, take a break! You deserve it!
11.) Remove the donut shaped hydraulic clutch acuator cylinder(DSHCAC). The same wise friend suggested pushing out the donut piston with a blast of compressed air. Catch it before it hits the ground!!
12.) At this point I had to replace the two o-rings in the DSHCAC and reassemble it. Shouldn’t to big of deal----not so fast. During re-assembly there is much opportunity to pinch, nick, shave these o-rings and their plastic keeper rings. Remember this is why we are doing this project, the o-ring was damaged and allowed oil leakage---CAREFUL is the important word here. Clean the o-ring slots till they shine. Fine sandpaper any rust or dirt away from the assembly area. Lubricate the dickens out of the o-rings and cylinder. I used a bench vice and two large c-clamps to EVENLY push the cylinder back together. It did NOT go easy. In retrospect I would definitely consider having a shop press it together in order to make it go together square and in a controlled manner. I would like to know any tricks you may have for this reassembly. The dozer has 6 hours of work since rebuild with no leaks but man I wonder if I did the cylinder reassembly carefully enough???
13.) Disassemble the CB on a bench in a clean work area. Inspect disks. When re-assembling keep brake drum on, to protect the fiber disk’s teeth. Support the CB on blocks so you can work both sides. It is easy to cross-thread the bolts that hold the clutchpack together!(Guess how I know?) The springs are quite strong. I used two 6” long ½-20 bolts to pull the CB together which allowed me to CAREFULLY rethread the CB bolts.
14.) I had the brake bands relined at Industrial Brake Reliners in Arvada, Colorado. Chris Montoya was easy to deal with. I did not require new fiber clutch disks but he had some that looked just like the BD2’s .
15.) If you could Disassemble you can Re-assemble, no worries. Re-assembly was straight-forward and enjoyable compared to the disassembly of heavy, rusted bolts and flanges within the cavity about the size of a file cabinet drawer. The stress of snapping off rusted bolts was gone also.
I think this covers the big issues I had.
A shoutout goes to Offgridman and Darin Mitchell at www.dm-machinery-sales.com for their timely postings on Tractorbynet.com.
Adios,
Sidehiller in Colorado
I just finished the Steering Clutch job about two weeks ago and thought I would share my notes. Cheers.
Steering Clutch Repair
Mitsubishi BD2g2
5-6-2012
I wrote these notes up for those who might be facing Steering Clutch repairs to their small bulldozer. I am NOT a mechanic or machinist and I only have a “farm-type shop”. Cash flow dictates I maintain my own equipment. Here are some suggestions/notes you might want to keep in mind when repairing steering clutches on a small dozer.
Situation: The right steering clutch actuator was leaking. This actuator is nothing more than a hydraulic cylinder in the shape of a 5” diameter donut. When hydraulic fluid is pumped into this cylinder it pushes clutch forks into the dry clutch pack letting the clutch slip a little, thus the dozer turns right. Two o-rings to keep the oil inside the cylinder rather than in the bottom of the dozer cavity and generally making a nasty mess of things. My large((about 4inch diam)) o-ring was broken, thus the hydraulic oil was leaking/pooling in the brake/clutch cavity. This AWOL hydraulic fluid could also ruin your fiber clutch disks and brake linings.
Notes:
1.) Better get a Service Manual, in order to make a game plan.
2.) Use lots of rusty bolt penetrating oil and lots of patience. Snapping a rusty bolt off in that cavity could set you up for some problematic easy-out work.
3.) Contrary to manual you do NOT have to remove the tracks to do this repair.
4.) Support the dozer off the ground with timbers so you can move tracks with a come-along.
This allows you to access the trackside flange bolts thru the trackside access port.
5.) Above the track sprocket is an access port which allows you to loosen the trackside clutchpack/brake bolts. You will need about 24” of socket set extensions to reach these bolts from outside the machine.
6.) Have a torch handy to help loosen the bolts that hold clutchpack/brake to the trackside final drive flange and inboard bevel driveshaft flange. PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE!
7.) My dozer was very rusty in the rightside clutchpack/brake((CB)) cavity, situated within the frame. Left side was much better/dry. Brake dust and leaking oil truly made a blackhole mess. If this is your situation I would recommend powerwashing with some detergent first.
8.) After removing all flange bolts the the clutchpack/brake((CB)) should lift out in one unit, IN THEORY! I used a come-along suspended from the roof frame and sling around the CB to crane it out of the cavity. I also used and 18” steel bar((brass would have been better! Where can I get one?))with 2 lb hammer to jar the CB from its mating to the two flanges. Be careful but firm with the hammer.
9.) Remove bolt, bolt keeper and specialty heavy washer from end of driveshaft. These parts hold the inboard flange on bevel gear driveshaft.
10.) Make a stout puller to remove the inboard flange from the driveshaft. The driveshaft is splined and maybe rusted. To remove this flange you will need to use oil penetrant, some heat, a CRAZY amount of torque on the puller. A couple of days for the penetrant to soak in, under puller pressure. I felt as if I was going to break that flange any minute then it popped loose. A wise friend suggested a multihole, 1” thick puller. I agree, the stouter the better and you may be able to protect the flange that way. I also hammered on the puller abit to jar it loose. There is not much room in that cavity, use the above mentioned bar/hammer combination. When you finally get the flange loose, without breaking it, take a break! You deserve it!
11.) Remove the donut shaped hydraulic clutch acuator cylinder(DSHCAC). The same wise friend suggested pushing out the donut piston with a blast of compressed air. Catch it before it hits the ground!!
12.) At this point I had to replace the two o-rings in the DSHCAC and reassemble it. Shouldn’t to big of deal----not so fast. During re-assembly there is much opportunity to pinch, nick, shave these o-rings and their plastic keeper rings. Remember this is why we are doing this project, the o-ring was damaged and allowed oil leakage---CAREFUL is the important word here. Clean the o-ring slots till they shine. Fine sandpaper any rust or dirt away from the assembly area. Lubricate the dickens out of the o-rings and cylinder. I used a bench vice and two large c-clamps to EVENLY push the cylinder back together. It did NOT go easy. In retrospect I would definitely consider having a shop press it together in order to make it go together square and in a controlled manner. I would like to know any tricks you may have for this reassembly. The dozer has 6 hours of work since rebuild with no leaks but man I wonder if I did the cylinder reassembly carefully enough???
13.) Disassemble the CB on a bench in a clean work area. Inspect disks. When re-assembling keep brake drum on, to protect the fiber disk’s teeth. Support the CB on blocks so you can work both sides. It is easy to cross-thread the bolts that hold the clutchpack together!(Guess how I know?) The springs are quite strong. I used two 6” long ½-20 bolts to pull the CB together which allowed me to CAREFULLY rethread the CB bolts.
14.) I had the brake bands relined at Industrial Brake Reliners in Arvada, Colorado. Chris Montoya was easy to deal with. I did not require new fiber clutch disks but he had some that looked just like the BD2’s .
15.) If you could Disassemble you can Re-assemble, no worries. Re-assembly was straight-forward and enjoyable compared to the disassembly of heavy, rusted bolts and flanges within the cavity about the size of a file cabinet drawer. The stress of snapping off rusted bolts was gone also.
I think this covers the big issues I had.
A shoutout goes to Offgridman and Darin Mitchell at www.dm-machinery-sales.com for their timely postings on Tractorbynet.com.
Adios,
Sidehiller in Colorado
centercity
New Member
OK what did I do wrong, the steering friction discs assembly from a BD2G is being removed from left and right side, but the right side we have an oil well in there so the hydraulic steering clutch cylinder assembly has to be repaired and the oil seal on the main shaft.
I have tried every thing with a good hammer and a long steel shaft with a lot of penetrading oil but no way to even slightly move the inner hub, I'm trying to find a short puller as space is limited hopefully that will help.
What other choices do I have before I put the torch to it,any one with the previous expirience and would like to share is highly appreciated.
Alexi
I have tried every thing with a good hammer and a long steel shaft with a lot of penetrading oil but no way to even slightly move the inner hub, I'm trying to find a short puller as space is limited hopefully that will help.
What other choices do I have before I put the torch to it,any one with the previous expirience and would like to share is highly appreciated.
Alexi
sidehiller
Member
OK what did I do wrong, the steering friction discs assembly from a BD2G is being removed from left and right side, but the right side we have an oil well in there so the hydraulic steering clutch cylinder assembly has to be repaired and the oil seal on the main shaft.
I have tried every thing with a good hammer and a long steel shaft with a lot of penetrading oil but no way to even slightly move the inner hub, I'm trying to find a short puller as space is limited hopefully that will help.
What other choices do I have before I put the torch to it,any one with the previous expirience and would like to share is highly appreciated.
Alexi
Alexi,
If you are trying to remove the "inboard flange(rather than trackside)" steering clutch pack then you HAVE TO use a puller. A large bolt (+/- 13/16ths or so) and an odd looking washer must be removed from center of flange because they hold this "inboard flange" to the driveshaft. My puller required a CRAZY amount of torque to get the flange to release from the splined driveshaft and the shaft was not very rusty at all. Use heat carefully cuz there IS a bearing in there that could be affected. I think, Darin from dm-Machinerysales.com in NY told me he has never used heat to pull that inboard flange.
Good luck,
Sidehiller
sidehiller
Member
Great summary sidehiller. how much was it if you don't mind for the relined brake bands? I'm probably close to needing to do this on my BS3F, or send me a pm if you want.
Bubbagoat
About $65 for each brakeband relining.
Cheers,
Sidehiller