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Anyone know how to change throw out bearing??

Johndeere120

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Cold the engine is usually slightly below the rpm range idling at 550 as soon as it warms it hits 600 then the noise starts, when it climbs to 650 it goes away.
That's true didnt think about that. So would you even change that bearing if you were me? I might just leave it now and just do the damper
 

Johndeere120

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That's perfect I'm going to go down monday and measure the length like in their picture to make sure it's the right one then I'll order it and do an update what happens. I really appreciate the help I talked to a lot of people and not one person mentioned that part. You know your stuff!
 

Johndeere120

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I'll do like you said, sand it down and find the part number to double check but I'm sure that's the one. Let you know what happens!
 

Johndeere120

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Your crazy thoughts just might have saved me a ton of money and headache pulling that trans off only to find out that wasnt even it! I would not have been happy
 

Johndeere120

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I can't tell you what to do only that there are a couple of different scenarios that will produce the same problem. But if it has a viscous damper it's way past due. The clutch could be a problem also,
who knows if it's been changed, but I would expect so.

Found a 211915 if that is what yours is.
https://www.ebay.com/i/383369256672...1291&msclkid=261ff4a498ec1bfd9d07aa41eae75fad
Measured this today and today pics, not the same with different model number cant find it? Check out pics
 

Truck Shop

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I think if you contact Vibratech you will find that yours is obsolete and crosses to 211915, what is the diameter of that one.
 

Johndeere120

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I think if you contact Vibratech you will find that yours is obsolete and crosses to 211915, what is the diameter of that one.
If I remember from earlier it was slightly over 12.5 inch and the link you sent me from ebay measured about 12.25 inches. It looks to be exact bolt pattern so I dont think it will matter at all if its slight smaller in diameter right? I searched for a while for my part number literally nothing
 

Truck Shop

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I don't see a aftercooler on your engine in the video, Cummins made both a small cam and a big cam 230. Cummins was great at cleaning a warehouse to put engines together.
Some small cams did have offset bolt pattern although I have never seen one. And that damper on yours is a stationary and were pretty useless, pretty common for the mirrors
to shake even from day one. And yes that is a totally obsolete part number, Cummins could find it but they will tell you the same thing. The only thing IMO would be the mating
surface of the pulley on the back.
 

Johndeere120

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Right no aftercooler. I guess I'll pull it off this week and look at the back to make sure it's the same. Also what is the difference from the stationary one from the viscous?
 

Truck Shop

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cutaway_with-labels.png Stationary is just that, solid with only a rubber isolator ring in the middle. A viscous damper is enclosed with a ring that rotates inside.
 

kshansen

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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
One thing I seem to recall being told is that one way to tell is a viscous damper is bad besides the measuring the thickness is if it does NOT get warm from running. Theory was that if the silicon had gone bad and hardened there would be no movement to cause it to warm up.

Not sure how you can determine if it is warm from the heat of engine or from the movement of the internal ring and fluid. Guess to be accurate you would have to compare to a known good one with engines running on both for the same amount of time.

I looked through some of my old notes from classes back in the day but could not find anything on dampers.

I know that some of the rubber ring dampers have chisel marks that you can check to see if there has been movement between the outer ring and the hub.
 

Johndeere120

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Jun 11, 2020
Messages
112
Location
Pennsylvania
One thing I seem to recall being told is that one way to tell is a viscous damper is bad besides the measuring the thickness is if it does NOT get warm from running. Theory was that if the silicon had gone bad and hardened there would be no movement to cause it to warm up.

Not sure how you can determine if it is warm from the heat of engine or from the movement of the internal ring and fluid. Guess to be accurate you would have to compare to a known good one with engines running on both for the same amount of time.

I looked through some of my old notes from classes back in the day but could not find anything on dampers.

I know that some of the rubber ring dampers have chisel marks that you can check to see if there has been movement between the outer ring and the hub.
Interesting. mine had the date stamped on it from when the truck was made so I'm sure by now its shot. I felt the rubber ring it was very hard probably not doing a thing
 

Truck Shop

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There was one procedure for checking for fluid leaks. Place damper in oven at 200* for one hour
to see if fluid would leak from crimped sealing edge. But most of them the fluid urns to a black mud
the consistency of thick peanut butter, the ring can't rotate in that.
 

Johndeere120

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There was one procedure for checking for fluid leaks. Place damper in oven at 200* for one hour
to see if fluid would leak from crimped sealing edge. But most of them the fluid urns to a black mud
the consistency of thick peanut butter, the ring can't rotate in that.
For a couple hundred bucks may as well just change it if you're going to do all that
 

Truck Shop

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Normally changing/installing a new damper will cut the gear growl/noise by 60 to 70%. Then you raise the idle about 20 to 30 rpm to remove the rest of the noise. Idle speed is 580 to 680.
 
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