Any advice on my 188 engine swap in the old ck would be appreciated

[Funny farm]

All four cyl bores had the same repair too. Don’t know if I said that. After removing the other sleeves u can see three repair rings still in place in the block and the one that came loose. To the best of my measuring ability it appears to be .002-.003 thou bigger than the bored out area. So a normal press fit. ( I don’t have bore mics only a digital caliper)
It’s also bigger than the sleeve is and bigger than the hole top or bottom of the bore so the ring must be distorted just to get inside the block. Obviously it worked and sealed up for years without issue. And could likely be repaired again and would work for years again. But my gut says to look closer at the other block and see if it’s in better shape. May or may not be. The way this project is going so far ,...nothing would be a surprise hahahahaha.

 

[Tinkerer]

I wouldn't put too much importance on having a tachometer FF. Know what rpms the engine is turning as far as I am concerned is for setting the idle adjustment. The total engine hours is what matters most and can be recorded with an inexpensive dash mounted electric hour meter.

 

[Funny farm]

I wouldn't put too much importance on having a tachometer FF. Know what rpms the engine is turning as far as I am concerned is for setting the idle adjustment. The total engine hours is what matters most and can be recorded with an inexpensive dash mounted electric hour meter.

I agree and plan to install some gauges for oil pressure and eng temp. But tach is not a big deal. I can tell by the sound of an engine if it’s idle is low or too high. And for the work I want the tractor for a tach is just eye candy lol. Hours temps and oil press is what I wanna monitor.

 

[kshansen]

Where I worked we had experienced several engines with bad pitting down at the seal area for the liners on various engines, due in no small part to very poor maintenance practices at several plants. If not too bad we were able to repair using epoxy to fill in the pitting and smooth off the roughness so seals would slide in without damage.

At one point the company purchased a Kent Moore tool specifically designed to bore out the lower bores and it included repair sleeves and tooling to press them in place. Unfortunately shortly after purchasing the tooling for a few thousand dollars upper management decided to scale back the shop and farm out 95% of the major engine work. That tooling got used as I recall twice and now probably 20 or more years latter still sits on a shelf and no one there now would have the faintest idea of what it is used for.

I think I would be checking the other block real close and if it is good go with that one. Otherwise see if the machine shop can make and install a new repair sleeve.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Like I said.. I'll bet money its a "standard practice" in the repair of those blocks.??
Just gotta find a machine shop who does "Case"..
Hell, call Dale Weiss at Tractor Stuff.. He'll definitely know.. 1-800-428-8183
He might just say, yeah its a standard repair, I have 12 on the shelf..
It'll be a lot faster than tearing down another engine..

 

[Funny farm]

Like I said.. I'll bet money its a "standard practice" in the repair of those blocks.??
Just gotta find a machine shop who does "Case"..
Hell, call Dale Weiss at Tractor Stuff.. He'll definitely know.. 1-800-428-8183
He might just say, yeah its a standard repair, I have 12 on the shelf..
It'll be a lot faster than tearing down another engine..

I’m sure if I can figure out what material to make the repair sleeve from , I can make or have it made. The other engine is basically tore down now. Crank and rods removed etc. basically all I have to do is put it back on the engine stand and push the sleeves out. Had it all tore down to get the crank and rods out for the build. I think I will pull the sleeves and see what one is a better candidate to build. May still repair the original block and rebuild it and sell for a fair price, to recoup some of the unexpected expense I have encountered on this project. I just want my backhoe running again but have been hitting obstacles every step of the way. Not pthat I wasn’t expecting obstacles and set backs. Always seem to hit a few.hahahah. Especially when I have very little experience with this type of equipment I’m fairly mechanical and have done lots of gas engine and automotive type work before so I don’t feel totally lost. But building off-road jeeps and rock crawlers is drastically diff in mannny ways to old tractors lol. One step at a time I guess. Thanks for all the info help and opinions. They def help ease my mind when making some of these decisions. Hopefully the other block is in better shape and I can use it without repair work first. Surely between the two engines and a major rebuild kit I can make one runner outta it all lol.

 

[Funny farm]

Like I said.. I'll bet money its a "standard practice" in the repair of those blocks.??
Just gotta find a machine shop who does "Case"..
Hell, call Dale Weiss at Tractor Stuff.. He'll definitely know.. 1-800-428-8183
He might just say, yeah its a standard repair, I have 12 on the shelf..
It'll be a lot faster than tearing down another engine..

Thanks pump guy. I will keep that number and may need to call him. This site was the best thing I have found for the old ck project. Manual is ok but vauge in spots and cannot share the same experience and knowledge that people who have worked on these machines before can share. Thanks to all who have helped me and I will continue to post my progress.

 

[Funny farm]

Like I said.. I'll bet money its a "standard practice" in the repair of those blocks.??
Just gotta find a machine shop who does "Case"..
Hell, call Dale Weiss at Tractor Stuff.. He'll definitely know.. 1-800-428-8183
He might just say, yeah its a standard repair, I have 12 on the shelf..
It'll be a lot faster than tearing down another engine..

I tried that number today and it would not work. ?? Did some looking online and found out and confirmed that it has been repaired and it’s semi common practice for the 188. Can serve as a permanent fix for corrosion around that area. Found this where u can purchase the sleeve but cannot find any measurements to confirm if it will work. Not sure if there was a common repair size to machine the block to or if mine/most were a custom repair. Would be good to repair the repair ring lol. Could sell the engine after I have one running for the ck. One project at a time lol. Should have the major engine kit in a couple days now. Fingers crossed the other block is good to use as is. Will be able to get the other block on the stand tonight and get the sleeves out. See what I find hahahahahaha.

 

[kshansen]

I tried that number today and it would not work. ??

The problem is where you are calling from, appears that 800 number is US only!

Check out this web page and there is a NON-800 number and an email address you should be able to get through on or use the email address.
http://e-backhoeparts.com/

 

[thepumpguysc]

Dammit.!! I didn't realize I was helpin a friggin foreigner.. Lol
Givin him ALL our secret "stuff".. Lol

 

[kshansen]

Well as my maternal grandfather joined the Canadian Expeditionary Force on April 8, 1918 I guess I would have some strong connections to our neighbors (those foreigners) up north!

 

[Funny farm]

Dammit.!! I didn't realize I was helpin a friggin foreigner.. Lol
Givin him ALL our secret "stuff".. Lol

Hahahahahahhahahahhaha. Oh shoot. The secrets out hahahahahaha

 

[Funny farm]

Pulled the sleeves out of the other block and I believe I have a rebuildable block to use. . No repair sleeves on this block. Pilot bores all look good. Managed to get a good start at cleaning up the block and engine parts. Washed all the rods and oil pump out good in fresh parts washer solution. Wiped and break cleaned everything and blew with air. Coated all parts with clean engine oil after washing. Wire wheeled the block and brake clean washed it. Blew out with air and run a tap in most of the threaded holes. Still want to remove all the studs and run a tap in them and all threads on the engine. Long way to go but it’s getting cleaner lol.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Wow.. what in the world did you use to clean that block.??!! Looks good..

 

[Funny farm]

Thanks pump guy. I used a stainless wire wheel in a die grinder and some de greaser and some brake cleaner. Scrapers and razor blades and a great big jug of elbow grease lol. Block is bare now. Cam and lifters all look good as do the cam bearings. Bunch more cleaning and I can maybe get a coat of paint on the block before assembly.

 

[Tinkerer]

Appears to be a perfectionist at work Funny Farm !!
Just a heads up, and you may already know about shimming the oil pump to get the correct drive gear backlash.
Maybe delay painting the block until it is all together.

 

[Funny farm]

Appears to be a perfectionist at work Funny Farm !!
Just a heads up, and you may already know about shimming the oil pump to get the correct drive gear backlash.
Maybe delay painting the block until it is all together.

Thanks tinkerer. Yes I am aware of the shims ( thanks to a post on this awesome site ). I kept the shims with the main bearing cap. Will check the clearances when I install the pump to confirm it’s within spec. Is there a soecific reason not to paint before assembly ? Kinda like the look of the bolts and nuts un painted is why I was going to paint as I build kinda. But maybe that’s the wrong approach ?

 

[Tinkerer]

Painting after assembly is just my personal preference FF. No overspray where I don't want it. Gasket surfaces and clean threads for example.

 

[Funny farm]

Maybe I will paint after assembly as that makes sense. Thanks guys. Appreciate your input.

 

[Funny farm]

Well I ended up masking and painting the block this aft. Lol. Turned out pretty good. Installed the sleeves without o rings to check the sleeve protrusion.