another 580c project. .

[stinky64]

holy crap I read a little further..sorry for multiple messages...Outlaw try a large puller and heat if needed but DON'T CUT CROSS SHAFT...ie...previous post....

 

[stinky64]

Yes you can remove carrier w/o removing axles or lifting machine..... it may seem hard to get off, but it's the inner o-ring sticking,provided you have removed phillips screw first....that inner seal is possible with a good cross shaft...but yours is not good.. if you want to pull that side gear top cover and r/s bull gear will have to be removed to address shaft issue.. good luck...

 

[outlawspeeder]

This what I ordered. Master and Slave 2 of each. Come packed well and in bags.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Mast...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

My update: The left pedal was giving me hell. I could not press the left without all three going. Right worked. The left was locked onto the shaft. I ended up cutting the shaft out. Stop by the metal supply store and pick up 15" x 1.25 of cold rolled. Had to cut two keyways into but it will all go back together tomorrow. If anyone needs to know one key is in the right pedal and the other is in the paw the drives both pedals.

The easy way to work on all this is to pull the dash and the floor. The shuttle handle and throttle have to be pulled apart. These are clamp and they also have a roll pins. You also have to pull a part the wiring under the dash. Label everything and take photos. I have to rewire my 580C. Oh don't forget to disconnect the battery [not ask]. My plan is to remount all the wiring onto a board that can be gotten to. Till sourcing relays and breakers.

I didn't get the rubber lines yet, but I figure I replace them while I have the floor up. The lines look good but will flush them with brake cleaner.

 

[TnG]

I haven't taken apart the dash, not ready to tackle the wirng just yet. I did remove the floorboard and fenders. It definitely makes working on the brakes easier. My dash is already jacked up, so when I get there I will make a new one.

 

[stinky64]

TnG those photos are awesome.....I can repair just about anything ,but I'm still sportin' a flip phone and don't have a clue how to post photos....your machine is a lot shinier than mine ,western N.Y. winters and a lot of road salt have taken their toll on the old girl...but that's just character......as long as they're mechanically sound....as far as tearing the dash out,if you're not worried about aestetics you can just cut a hole in l/s of dash about the size of master so you can get bolts out...the access panels in top of dash will help as well.......Outlaw ,were you making sparks in the cab??????

 

[Tinkerer]

I'm still sportin' a flip phone and don't have a clue how to post photos...

If you can send and receive emails in a PC it quite easy.
Send yourself the photos from your phone. Then open the email in the PC and download and save it.
After that just upload the image into your HEF reply.
It can also be done by sending the images to yourself in a text message.
I do it both ways several times a week.

 

[outlawspeeder]

Yup. The circuit breaker post touched the floor.
I didn't know the fenders come off like that.



What is the blue circle.

 

[nova481]

Looks like the dipstick for the transaxle, it unscrews

 

[TnG]

She a bit rougher than she looks. Gonna have to fab a new fender and floorboard. When I'm waiting on parts and out of spare cash, I'm busy chasing rust and bathing it in ospho. I'm pretty much a jack of all trades, master of nothing. Been a mechanic in the Coast Guard for 21 years so far. The thing is, I've never worked on the same thing. Hvac, hydraulics, small boats, big diesels, pretty much everything. Never specialized in anything, though.

The blue circle is my dipstick for the transaxle. Home made no doubt. The fender came off fairly easy. 3 bolts to the ROPS, 4 to the floorboard, one or two to the hoe control area... i did have to cut the wires that go to the lights on the ROPS as they run through the fender.

 

[outlawspeeder]

The blue circle is my dipstick for the transaxle. Home made no doubt.

Mine looks the same so either the guy that made yours is getting around or its stock. I think Stock.

 

[stinky64]

Definitely stock..I was confused as well when I first brought mine home,until I got "THE BOOKS" 2 repair manuals,parts manual, and the original operators manual for 99 bucks on ebay from Peaceful Creek Auctions... Having the parts manual makes it so much easier to find and order parts online when you have part numbers for every part on the machine.......after first order savings,"THE BOOKS" were paid for........... Tinkerer thanks for the phone info....I need to get some air time for my phone, but I will give er a whirl......

 

[outlawspeeder]

So I now have brakes?.?.?.? They work but not fully tested. It the hoe up in the air the brakes will stop the tires spinning. The right brake is binding every now and then but if released and tried again it works.
I am looking at the diff lock on the side side of the right brake. I can't turn the shaft going into it. I pulled the bolts that hold it to the brake and the cover would turn a little when tapped with a dead blow. Is there a quick fix to make these work? Should I pull the brake cover to get this apart?

 

[TnG]

Did you get the flush mount Allen bolt? It should come off and give you access to soak it in kroil or acetone/trans fluid or whatever you like to use.

 

[TnG]

6 bolts total.

Stinky, I got the same books from the same place. I have a digital copy, but sometimes paper is better.

 

[stinky64]

Don't need to pull brake cover...just pull diff lock cover to make sure nothing is seized/broken....pull return spring off of both brake levers on top of brake housings to make sure they move freely,if not lube the crap out of them because they will cause much annoyance later....

 

[stinky64]

TnG ....ya posted while I was typing...gotta love paper.....next thing you should try to find is old roosa master injector pump manual,its not a case component and not in the parts manual...I scored an old I/H blue ribbon service gss-1271-c fuel system manual for 10 bucks online...eventually you're gonna need that one too if your pump was never serviced....It's coming,but not too difficult to tackle with pictures and patience....

 

[outlawspeeder]

I am a PB blaster user.

Just found that %^@%^ Allen bolt. REALLY! There is a designer still laughing about this. I found the the Allen bolt watching a youtube vid but thank you so much. The vid is old but he is working on his brakes too.

The only reason I want to pull it off is to free up the input shaft without braking the shifter fork. I am not sure what is binding. I think it is the shaft going thought the cast. Most things on this 580 just needs to be freed up.


NOTE to anyone buying new Masters and Slaves. Before you put them in, open the Masters the caps and get any loose casting crap out. I got mine mounted and plumbed and had to remove them to get the crap out.

 

[Tinkerer]

More than I will ever need to know about a Roosa-Master DB injection pump can be read and or downloaded here. --->
http://www.stanadyne.com/dealerportal/ssi/english/Product Manual/99523.pdf

 

[stinky64]

Ask and you shall receive....definite no brainer for anyone with newly acquired machine that has been sitting or not been repaired before ,you will get a run and stall condition ,and you will have "coffee grounds" in the top cover of your injection pump....download this pdf and save it...it's coming.....

 

[outlawspeeder]

The fuel system was the 1st thing clean on my 580C. I pulled the fuel tank and had the goo and rust cleaned. There was 2 inches of what looked like a lose brown / black tar. I was told it is what happens to Bio fuel if left in the tank. The easy way to pull the tank is to cut the filler tube about 2 inches up from the tank. I used a piece of hose used for fuel tank fillers an two hose clamps. The fuel line and filter housing has to be cleaned too. I got lucky and the seller had the pump rebuilt before I bought it and had slaved in a fuel tank and filter.