handtpipeline
Well-Known Member
Ok, here's the deal. We bid on this job I'm doing now, and at first there was about 2,000' of 8" water, and about 1,000 feet of 8" sewer. A while later, we got a call from the general contractor on it, that they needed a price on replacing an 8" clay sewer line with 10" DIP (Ductile Iron Pipe) and rehabing the 8 manholes on it. About 1,100' in all. Need a price within the hour, nothing in the way, and if there is, it'll be taken care of. Depth range from 6' to 12' deep. We were already the winning bid on the 8" work, so we knew we would already be there.
So, we end up getting it, and when we went to see what we had gotten into, find that this "nothing in the way" addition in fact has 225' of asphalt parking lot for a pretty busy restaurant (Delta Cafe), along with crossing both of their driveways (30' to 35' each) plus going right thru the MIDDLE of a VERY EXPENSIVE planter between the driveways. Not to mention about 400' of 300 pair telephone cable that I had to strip out on one section, and move out of the way because the phone company had laid it directly on top of the existing line were are replacing in place.
I've replaced all but approx 500' by bypass pumping, and excavating, just removing the old clay line as we went, installing the DIP. The General is supposed to saw-cut the asphalt, supply ag-base to compact as backfill across the parking lot and drives, and replace the pavement. The planter he said was "no big deal" has turned into a VERY big deal (about $15,000 to remove and re install).
Pipe bursting is NOT an option. Economical alternative to open trenching my a$$... I'm trying to figure out an alternative, that will be less disruptive to the restaurant, and although it would be an extra to my bid price, maybe cheaper than the removal and replacement of all the paving and the planter.
Here is my idea: The clay line has been slip-lined at some point or another, with what appears to be a fiberglass lining. It is smooth and continious inside. I've got road boring equipment, up to and including a 36" casing machine. For each section, I would have to have a 35' long pit, and instead of using casing, build a custom head, with about a 10' long pilot bit, a touch smaller than the inside diameter of the existing line, that would cut about a 13" diameter hole, with 12" augers to bring the spoil out. I say 13", because the outside diameter of the bell on the 10" DIP is 12.91". After reaming a section out, we would then pull the head and augers out, and use the machine to jack the 10"DIP into place.
Am I crazy? Or could this work??? If I could make this work, I could possibly do the entire 225' of asphalt this way, with the exception of 1 manhole in the middle of it that I would have to excavate, then I'd have to excavate about half of one of the driveways to get a long enough pit to go under the planter and other driveway. (the 2 sections are not in line with one another)
I know I'm crazy (I've had enough people tell me that over the years), the question is, am I crazy enough to make this work??? Any input or suggestions will be much appreciated.
PS: Going this route, I own all the equipment needed to do this. It would take me a couple of days probably to rig it up and build the head, but I think I'd save a LOT of time doing it this way. This is the shallow end of this job, ranging from 6' to 8'. The best we did on the other half was 140' in a day, in the wide open, benching the trench out. We were tie-ing in the line every evening, so we wouldn't have to pump all night.
So, we end up getting it, and when we went to see what we had gotten into, find that this "nothing in the way" addition in fact has 225' of asphalt parking lot for a pretty busy restaurant (Delta Cafe), along with crossing both of their driveways (30' to 35' each) plus going right thru the MIDDLE of a VERY EXPENSIVE planter between the driveways. Not to mention about 400' of 300 pair telephone cable that I had to strip out on one section, and move out of the way because the phone company had laid it directly on top of the existing line were are replacing in place.
I've replaced all but approx 500' by bypass pumping, and excavating, just removing the old clay line as we went, installing the DIP. The General is supposed to saw-cut the asphalt, supply ag-base to compact as backfill across the parking lot and drives, and replace the pavement. The planter he said was "no big deal" has turned into a VERY big deal (about $15,000 to remove and re install).
Pipe bursting is NOT an option. Economical alternative to open trenching my a$$... I'm trying to figure out an alternative, that will be less disruptive to the restaurant, and although it would be an extra to my bid price, maybe cheaper than the removal and replacement of all the paving and the planter.
Here is my idea: The clay line has been slip-lined at some point or another, with what appears to be a fiberglass lining. It is smooth and continious inside. I've got road boring equipment, up to and including a 36" casing machine. For each section, I would have to have a 35' long pit, and instead of using casing, build a custom head, with about a 10' long pilot bit, a touch smaller than the inside diameter of the existing line, that would cut about a 13" diameter hole, with 12" augers to bring the spoil out. I say 13", because the outside diameter of the bell on the 10" DIP is 12.91". After reaming a section out, we would then pull the head and augers out, and use the machine to jack the 10"DIP into place.
Am I crazy? Or could this work??? If I could make this work, I could possibly do the entire 225' of asphalt this way, with the exception of 1 manhole in the middle of it that I would have to excavate, then I'd have to excavate about half of one of the driveways to get a long enough pit to go under the planter and other driveway. (the 2 sections are not in line with one another)
I know I'm crazy (I've had enough people tell me that over the years), the question is, am I crazy enough to make this work??? Any input or suggestions will be much appreciated.
PS: Going this route, I own all the equipment needed to do this. It would take me a couple of days probably to rig it up and build the head, but I think I'd save a LOT of time doing it this way. This is the shallow end of this job, ranging from 6' to 8'. The best we did on the other half was 140' in a day, in the wide open, benching the trench out. We were tie-ing in the line every evening, so we wouldn't have to pump all night.