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AC6080 Stanadyne Pump - No Fuel to Injectors

Discussion in 'Agricultural Equipment' started by CJAMS, Feb 21, 2020.

  1. CJAMS

    CJAMS Member

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    Western NY
    Recently bought an Allis Chalmers 6080 wit the 433I engine, DB2437-4453 IP. I was told it would run for 20-30 seconds and then quit. Sounded like the flex ring so I pulled return line and no fuel was coming out while cranking the engine. Cracked the injection line and same no fuel .
    Ended up pulling the pump cleaning the outside and then opening it up. Yes the flex ring was all gone, only two 1/2 inch pieces still attached. So I cleaned and blew out all of the ports in the head and body, and replaced the flex ring. The plungers were not stuck and moved freely, pulled the delivery valve to see if it had anything in it too, don't recall if there was anything was getting late that night. Do recall the vent screw was plugged good but cleaned up well. Ended up reassembling and putting back on the tractor to test it out. Still no fuel while cranking it over. Had a charger on the batteries so it cranked at a good speed. So then I changed the Fuel filter and checked all of the lines as this is a gravity only system. Bottom of the tank is about 18" higher than the pump and is 3/4 full of fuel. Checked and fuel runs out good to the pump.

    So I figured the transfer pump might need new vanes, found they were worn .003 compared to new ones (20511). Tried again on the tractor and now it just Burps a small amount of fuel (this is an improvement). Was working this for several hours (even took of the cover to make sure the MV was in the full fuel position), had to keep letting the starter cool down. Checked for suction leaks but don't really see any, will now replace the two 3/8 compression sleeves on the steel inlet line just for good measure.

    I made a fitting to measure the transfer pressure but haven't tried it on the tractor yet. Don't know if this is still an issue. Should I also replace the transfer pump liner (what PN)?

    Last thing I found while originally inspecting the pump was small amount of burnishing on the Delivery Valve - is this normal? It wasn't stuck and fell out tapping the head on my hand. I am wondering if I should replace this too due to the discoloration? The delivery valve has a 30 stamped on the spring end, AGCO PN 74053451, anyone know the Stanadyne #?

    I didn't see any cracks in the Cam, plungers are not stuck, new blades, blew out all cavities, metering valve is not stuck, solenoid is working too (tried i t with the cover off - stayed held while cranking the engine too)... It should pump fuel, correct?

    Any ideas what I could be missing that is still causing no high pressure fuel to be pumped?

    Thanks in advance


    IMG_3669.JPG IMG_3675.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2020
  2. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    I’ll look it up for u..
    In the mean time what are u torqueing the DV to?? It must be torqued.. it’s 90 inlbs..
     
  3. CJAMS

    CJAMS Member

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    Hi thanks for the reply... I had planned to use 90 in/lbs.

    Is that normal wear in the pictures of the DV above?
     
  4. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    The DV is 13827 & U MUST use a new stop.. {peg lookn thing}
    I would deff. replace the mv..
    The kit # is 24373
    The liner is 21232
    What r u toquing the end cap to.?? it MUST BE torqued to 34FT lbs..
    Did u put the old return connector back in it?? it might have flex ring still in it.??
    A new ret. conn is 21251
    Try running/starting it without the connector installed..
    Did u match the dot on the drive shaft w/ the dot INSIDE the pump.??
    It would still pump if u didnt, just not on the correct cyl.. {180* out}
     
    DB2 likes this.
  5. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    Did u unscrew the vent wire screw from the head.?? U shoulda done it PRIOR TO removing the head..
    Sometimes they stick up just hi enough to gouge the housing.. then your sunk..
    MAKE SURE the wire moves freely..
     
  6. CJAMS

    CJAMS Member

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    I hadn't thought to replace the MV as it seemed free. Before I removed the end cap I marked it and when reinstalling it I put it back to the torque stripe. Didn't realize it's torque was so important. This effects the TP sealing and pressure? Suppose I should buy the socket to torque it, these are available online?
    Do you think its worth hooking up a pressure gauge before the fuel filter even though it appears to flow freely? I really don't have any history of this machine but it appears well used.
    Thanks for your expertise TPG... hope to have parts for next weekend.
     
  7. CJAMS

    CJAMS Member

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    I had pulled the vent screw prior to removing, originally it was plugged solid but I was able to clean it.
    Is the torque on this a big concern too?
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2020
  8. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    Sorry, meant DV..
    U didnt show a pic of the MV, it may need replacing too.?? is it discolored at the groove {helix}
    If so, replace it..20849.. BUT, they made new ones.. if your old 1 comes to a point at the top, u also need a shim..26427
    IF its FLAT ontop, u already have the correct shim..
    All u need is a 3/4 crows foot on the end cap..
    The pressure from the supply pump is 1-3psi.. basically "gravity" fed.. if it flows freely, I wouldnt bother..
    O/S blades are 20512
    How about the "Pilot Tube" in the front.?? is it gouged anywhere?? if so, replace it.. 16320
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2020
    DB2 likes this.
  9. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    No disrespect to u.. but I think its funny, "ALL I NEED is a kit".. lol..
    Yup, thats right.. a kit & 100.00 worth of "other" parts & 600.00 in torque wrenches & another 150.00 in special tool.. and umpteen years of experience..
    "& thats all I need".. {Steve Martin}
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2020
    DB2 likes this.
  10. CJAMS

    CJAMS Member

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    No disrespect taken... It's kinda like knowing it s gonna be hard but you still walk into it just because... But once you get it fixed (most of the time) you can say "I did it"! But of course it takes longer and costs more, (costs money to learn and help/experience from others). Good thing I really don't have any hurry to use the machine (It's just an extra) and there is some great help from people like you on this forum.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2020
  11. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    It def. seems like you've done 1 or 3 in the past..
    The ones "I" take offence to, are the guys that buy a machine for 500.00 buck & have no clue of what a 1/2" wrench LOOKS LIKE, never heard of a Torque Wrench & are to cheap to look on ebay for a pump manual & expect me to hold their hand while they destroy their pump & THEN send it off to SOMEONE ELSE to get it repaired.. & "we" have 75 - 95 emails back & forth..
    A short story.. The guy I'm speaking of did just the exact same thing.. THEN... writes me because he cant get the machine to start & run.!! {the nerve..}
    At least I was nice about it & told him to contact the people that rebuilt his pump..
     
  12. CJAMS

    CJAMS Member

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    A follow up for anyone interested in the AC 6080. Recall IP wouldn't make any fuel... replaced flex ring, delivery valve/stop, transfer pump blades/liner reinstalled pump. Please hold all of the shouldn't need it... To get it running I installed an electric fuel pump 2-4 psi inline with the filter from a jug to help get it primed, just wouldn't prime without it, too cold, not enough battery, pump issue,... don't know but this worked!!! Smoked like hell when it finally started... don't think the previous owner ran it for many years. Was missing sputtering at first but better once it warmed up. Reconnected the fuel tank to the IP and drove it home the next day, 15 mi. !!! Cleaning it up I found the remains of 12 ether cans on the floor next to the seat, previous owner said it just needed a sniff to get going. Put fuel conditioner in it and have been running it, 10 hours over last two weeks and it is running better. Starts hard, needs a shot of ether to start, probably due to low compression (lots of blow by from oil fill tube). Had a miss and smoke starting around 2000 rpm and wouldn't go over 2300 at first but now it;s missing less and runs up to 2450 where it should be. I think it has the usual smoke from a tired old girl but for class of 81 what do you want. Hour meter is stuck at 4400 hrs, probably has 10000 hrs on it. Thanks for the part numbers TPG.
     
  13. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    KOOL.. always nice to hear a success story..
    NOW.. if u wanna KEEP IT RUNNING..?? Change those fuel filters after about the 2nd tank full & DONT run it down till it sputters..
    The flex ring bits are floating around the tank & u surely dont want then to make it to the pump inlet..
    You'll never find the problem if it does..
    Good luck & Happy Tractoring..