Abrasion Resistent Poly Carbonate Plastic

[pittedmess]

Got all new window "Glass" and one lasted 30 minutes and a tree limb it swung by and cracked it.
Looking into some of the new plastics online used for window glazing that are 20 times stronger than glass and are abrasive resistant.
I can cut it myself and install it. Seems to be a better option on the flat surfaces.
The one loader has a split front window, so I may just cut the center out and use one piece.

I am fed up with broken windows and the cost of glass plus the labor.
Thoughts
http://www.piedmontplastics.com/heavy-equipment-glazing/

 

[seattle smitty]

I just did a search to find this, and am sorry you got no responses.

Yes, the AR-2 (abrasion-resistant two sides) polycarbonate works as a somewhat cheaper replacement for factory glass. Usually 1/2" thick for front and maybe door glass, and 3/8" for some of the less-abused windows. I've done a couple of jobs, and found it satisfactory. It doesn't stay as clear as glass because operators insist on wiping the window dry, using any old dirty rag, and the stuff is only abrasion-resistant in comparison with other plastics. My replacement of door glass in a small/mid-size Hitachi excavator with 3/8" AR-2 was good until the one of the boys let the door get away from him in a hard breeze, slamming open and cracking the panel. I used a special clear glue to patch it, which worked fine until they sold the machine.

With the two jobs I've done, I drilled small holes around the periphery of the "glass" to screw it into the frame. I forget what sealant I used. I think one time it was 3M's "Windo-Weld" which has good adhesion but it very hard to pump with a caulking gun. I have a new job to do, and am looking for a better bonding agent. A mere sealant, like a silicone seal, might not be sufficient to hold this 4' X 5' piece of 3/8" AR-2 in place without screws, which I'm hoping to omit this time. I need a strong adhesive, but the best I've found has only a ten minute working time. The window I'm doing is right next to the boom, and access is difficult enough that I don't think that even with a helper we could get all the glue applied and the window lifted into the frame in ten minutes. I'll let you know what I find on this.

BTW, this plastic is not cheap, so shop around. For anyone in the south Seattle area, I'm having the best results with Interstate Plastics, on West Valley Road in Kent. Ask for Brian.

Also BTW, you can get this as a laminated plastic (Makrolon is one maker) that's more resistant to cracking, but I've never tried it, or priced it.

 

[BlazinSS934]

Here is an idea. Watch what you are doing and that won't happen. Old timer I worked for would say " if you want the glass to keep the heat in, don't break it. "


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[lantraxco]

Here is an idea. Watch what you are doing and that won't happen. Old timer I worked for would say " if you want the glass to keep the heat in, don't break it. "


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

True, but then like I always say, if I could walk on water I'd drink free beer for life.

 

[Nige]

From experience I think you will find it very difficult if not impossible to locate a polycarbonate that is totally scratch-proof, simply because polycarbonate is way softer as a material than glass. Even the best ones seem to be susceptible to damage from dust which when you wipe it off (or even wash it off with water to a certain extent) puts hundreds of tiny scratches in the surface. It might look fine but when the sun comes on it, oh boy ........

 

[woorarra]

I use it all the time on my Menzi Mucks, the fine scratches will polish out with fine car Polish.

I cut it using a circular saw, works well.

The stuff I use is 4.5mm thick.

 

[lantraxco]

When used as a bullet resistant material it's often made as a laminate, Poly core with a very thin layer of glass on each side for better optical qualities and scratch resistance. Obviously the outer layer spider webs easily so for heavy equipment applications it's not the best choice.

 

[digger doug]

Well there's always OSB....

Maybe the OP needs some external bars across the winders, logger style ?