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983 track adjuster fix

Discussion in 'Old Iron!' started by dieseldave, Feb 11, 2011.

  1. dieseldave

    dieseldave Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2007
    Messages:
    337
    Location:
    egg harbor NJ
    I have to replace the track adjuster seal on my Cat 983. Not a fun job- I did the opposite side a few years ago, it involves splitting the track and pulling the idler out. Not fun, and on this old machine it's going to entail the certainty of breaking off large grade 8 bolts and drilling and retapping, etc... So, I'm looking for a shortcut. The machine is only occasional use, maybe a few times a year if that so it doesn't have to be perfect. My first thought was to cut a chunk of metal and install between the two red lines in the first pic. This would substitute for the grease cylinder and would still allow the recoil spring to function. A second less desireable choice would be to put a piece of heavy angle steel where the yellow box is in the third pic, which would work but eliminates the recoil spring. A third option is to cut a section out of the rod, between the blue lines in the second pic, giving enough room to get the offending cylinder out so that a new seal can be installed. The rod could then be welded back together. Or, of course I could split the track, pull the idler and fix it according to the Cat book, but that's no joke on something this size. What do you think?
     

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  2. Komatsu 150

    Komatsu 150 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    Messages:
    673
    Location:
    Northern Illinois
    Whatever you do, don't eliminate the recoil spring action or you will be bending and breaking idler shafts or other assorted parts. Best not ask how I know this.
     
  3. dieseldave

    dieseldave Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2007
    Messages:
    337
    Location:
    egg harbor NJ
    Whenever I had to do a quick fix on a broken adjuster I would try to put something in there that wasn't overkill on strength to provide a sort of safety valve. Piece of pipe or something that would hopefully give before major components LOL
     
  4. russ61

    russ61 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2010
    Messages:
    22
    Occupation:
    screw machine shop supervisor
    Location:
    SE Indiana
    On my 955H when it blew I used aluminum bar stock .Cut to length and wired about 6 around the chrome shaft to keeep it extended.Don't use steel as I'm afraid it would rust and possibly damage the chrome .It let me finish what I need done and fixed it proper when time alowed.
    Russ
     
  5. jimrr

    jimrr Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2010
    Messages:
    149
    Occupation:
    marine engineer/ at sea
    Location:
    ne oregon
    Soak it in Kroil for a week, pull the pin------ ! the rest will be automatic as you'll be 'obligated' to finish it right!
     
  6. CSaley

    CSaley Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2011
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    Location:
    NJ
    good luck
     
  7. dieseldave

    dieseldave Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2007
    Messages:
    337
    Location:
    egg harbor NJ
    Well, I finally decided to torch the rod apart and take it out that way. Glad I did, ended up being pretty simple and far easier than removing the track and idler.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. dieseldave

    dieseldave Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2007
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    Location:
    egg harbor NJ
    Here are the old and new seals on the bench. I have video of the whole "procedure", hope to have a vid on youtube soon.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
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    Occupation:
    Service Manager
    Location:
    Knoxville TN
    Nice job dave.

    I don't think I've ever seen a Lincoln welder quite like that one.
     
  10. mitch504

    mitch504 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2010
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    Location:
    Andrews SC
    Dang, I thought I had an old portable lincoln!