955L repairs

[RGrimes]

Hello gang, purchased a 955L a few weeks ago and have found issues that should have been avoided but machine was reccomended by former CAT mechanic, so now I have to try to fix being unknowing and probably easily misguided. I have a 955L serial number 85J11664 and have found a 955K serial number 61H165 and want to know if track and or any of ther other undercarrage parts are inter-changable? Mine has broken tension spring on one side and a broken stop on the other side. I have purchased both of these but it looks like someone has welded the track together at the master link instead of properly putting it back together. Just wondering if these two machines are similar enough to make my 955L a better machine by interchanging undercarriage and potentially other upcoming unknowns. Just a farm loader, not to be used every day. Thanks in advance.

 

[Master Link]

The undercarriage of your machine is completely different than the 955K. Around 85J10500 Cat upgraded from the D5 size undercarriage to the D6C-D which is a lot heavier undercarriage. You have an 8" pitch chain while the K model has a 6.91 pitch. You will need to purchase parts based only on your serial number.
You didn't ask about replacing the springs but be forewarned if you don't have any experience doing this kind of work study up on it as it can be dangerous. Don't try and disassemble the spring by taking the nut off. Did you buy a spring that is assembled? They are originally assembled in a group and compressed enough to be place in your frame. Once in your frame between the stops you can back the nut off so the spring expands to the correct length. That's kind of a short version of how it works.
As far as split links go you will probably have to cut them and have new one installed. They were probably welded because the bolt stripped or broke off.

 

[RGrimes]

Thanks Master Link, I had done some investigating and found some information that you have confirmed. I actually did just purchase the spring as mechanic friend suggested, but after more understanding of the way this is compressed is why I started looking for complete setup. Seem hard to find in used market, either same shape or worse if I do find. Machine is pretty solid overall, but really don't want to put new under it because of what and how I use it, but might have to. I wanted to get it to where it was more dependable without a great deal of constant repairs, but shouldn't have listened to a different CAT repair guy initially. Thanks again

 

[Nige]

Replacing the springs is not so difficult but it has to be done carefully and with due regard to the forces involved. They're not known as Death Springs for nothing.

Try the trhead linked for some ideas ....... https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...hains-sprocket-springs-and-other-stuff.55139/

 

[Master Link]

Let's work on the broken spring first. Here is what you will need for a new spring assembly.
1V7785 SPRING
7M1856 PILOT
7M1859 PILOT
5K6261 SLEEVE
0S1620 BOLT
2S1654 WASHER
9M3770 NUT
1V7793 BOLT
Take all these parts to a heavy equipment repair shop and have them press it all together. Free length of spring is 30.22". Compressed length for installation in frame is 24.23". After installation the length should be 24.73. The compressed length to be at least 24.23 or you may not get it installed.
Check with a company called Heavyquip in Knoxville and see if they can do it. I worked at the one in Irving Tx for 10 years and we pressed many springs of all different sizes. For parts you can check with Heavyquip, Off Road and American Crane and Tractor.
You may be able to reuse the two pilots but we generally wouldn't press them with the used ones because of how bad a shape they were in.
To get your old spring out take a good size chain, 3/8 at least and wrap it around the spring and frame several times. Take a torch and start cutting the coils. It's already broken so a lot of the pressure is already off of it. We would hide behind whatever we could when cutting it. When the first coil gets cut you'll probably jump 10 feet.
While you are doing this get a seal kit for the track adjuster. Now's the time to do this when everything is apart.

 

[RGrimes]

Thanks Master link, I was actually looking at those parts yesterday. I truly understand the danger of the spring tension and that is why I was hoping a similar unit with bad engine might be my best fix, and may be able to upgrade in other small areas, but just don't find many with the upper serial numbers in my area.

This is my first loader/dozer as you might can tell, but with the master links on the track being welded, I have found it looks like 3P1113 + 3P11117 and 3P1114 + 3P1116 can these be replaced or what is the best way to fix this issue. It is obvious that it will have to be opened up to make changes like you described and I am assuming it would be best to replace so that it can be worked on in the future. Will the existing pins push out to allow for replacement? Im doubting that it will be easy due to the way the master link is designed, but hoping that if I had the right tools that this is.

 

[Nige]

How about some photos of the undercarriage and in particular the master links.? Let the dog see the rabbit so to speak ..........

 

[RGrimes]

Here's all I have for now.

 

[AllDodge]

Holly smokes, so there isn't even a pad on the master. That's not going to last

Are both done this way?

 

[RGrimes]

Both are welded together but R side has pad. I purchased a new pad to out on if I get new link, and if not will have to hodge podge it together.

 

[Nige]

I'd like to see some more photos of the rest of the links and the bushes for a kick-off.
If the rest of the bushes are in a similar state externally to the one seen in the photo of the master link then the chances are that if every pin/bush joint in the chain is not shot already they are really close to it.



How good the links are would depend on some photos of the bottom link rail that runs on the track rollers.
Track shoe grousers appear to be worn down pretty much to the bolt heads and the shoe trailing edges are pretty sharp - worn out in other words.

After the above, photos of the track shoes, track rollers, carrier rollers, sprockets, and front idlers. They are all separate components but the U/C works as a system and the condition of one part of it will affect the rest.

 

[Bluox]

If your idlers are out to the end of the track frames you can cut the master links out and replace them with a master pin and run out what little life these tracks have left. This is called short tracking and all you need is a " VICTOR FIRE AXE OF DOOM" and a master pin and "THORS HAMMER OF GET THINGS DONE" .
Bob

 

[Dave Neubert]

Bushings are shot from looks of them I would say time for tracks got some pictures of links . rollers , and idlers. Bolts are missing so bolts are either stripped or broken. Cat will compress spring for you but only if you uae all new parts. normally the stops for the recoil spring have broken bolts or they will break when you try to remove them make sure all bolts are drilled out and replaced

 

[RGrimes]

Thanks for the comments. As I mentioned before, learning about things after purchasing all add up to cussing myself and why I thought if I could find a similar machine to that I could patch together to make it better might be the best plan of action. I knew it was old and worn, but relied on the wrong people saying it would be fine just to do farm clean up. It still may, but I have not run it much to check for other concerns. It does have good power so I felt it would do what I needed. I would have to come across a great deal to put everything new, but want to come up with the best bang for the buck. This machine will never be run much, but I do want to have it reliable. Thanks again

 

[Dave Neubert]

I looked up the tracks the 61H and the 85J have the same tracks you have to go to a 13x before they changed the tracks. both links say 6K0910

 

[RGrimes]

Thanks Dave

 

[farmerlund]

Even if you have to take a link out of the chain to get things shortened up its no big deal. I ran an old D7 for 4-5 years with the chains about shot. At the time it wasn't getting many hours per year. It finally wore through the bushings.

 

[Master Link]

Dave is wrong. The links on your chain have 3P1112 and 3P1113 correct? Those links are used on a D6C chain. The 6K910 is a D5 chain. Different pitches.
The very high serial number 85J have the same undercarriage as the 13X models.

 

[Dave Neubert]

Master Link is right I left a 1 0ff of the serial number

 

[RGrimes]

thanks guys