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955L 13X1 Track adjuster removal

dvs 99

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Sep 25, 2012
Messages
12
Location
Mongomery, TX
I've been trying to get the track adjuster out of my 955L but I can't get the front idler far enough forward to remove the adjuster. Is there something that stops it from going further forward. I just need about an inch to get the adjuster out is there somthing I'm missing?
 

Bob/Ont

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Sep 18, 2012
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Ontario
I've been trying to get the track adjuster out of my 955L but I can't get the front idler far enough forward to remove the adjuster. Is there something that stops it from going further forward. I just need about an inch to get the adjuster out is there somthing I'm missing?[/QUOTE
You should be able to move the idler right off the end of the frame with a prybar. There might be some worn and out of place wear strips jamming things up. If you can move the adjuster cyl back into the pilot fully, unbolt the flange and force the idler ahead, then you should be able to grab the piston and pull it out to reseal it.
Later Bob
 

OldandWorn

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Welcome to HEF and good luck with your task.

Any chance of a short write up and some pics? I can see a large diameter chrome rod right behind where you add grease. Is that the surface which requires sealing? Also curious where the best location is for the master link when you split the track.
 

oceanobob

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Jun 13, 2010
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751
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oceano california
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general contractor
My hat is off to you for doing this project during the balmy winter season there, although sadly there won't be as many flies and mosquito's for the added challenge.
*
An old equipment mechanic wizard informed us: when ya pull the master link on da track, keep your boot out frum under dare.

I always wondered why he was so worried about those boots since his were all worn and beat up looking.
 

d9gdon

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Feb 12, 2010
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1,517
Location
central texas
I've been trying to get the track adjuster out of my 955L but I can't get the front idler far enough forward to remove the adjuster. Is there something that stops it from going further forward. I just need about an inch to get the adjuster out is there somthing I'm missing?

Here's the pictures from the parts book:

955L 13X1 Idler Group 1 of 2.gif

955L 13X1 Idler Group 2 of 2.gif

I like to put the master link at the front of the idler to remove so you can remove the pin without interference. If you're looking at the idler from the side it would be about the 2 o'clock position. Then you can back up with a block jammed under the track at the sprocket so it'll make some slack in the chain. When you go back together with it, you can jam a block under the track at the idler and use your bucket and a chain to fasten to the track at the top to pull it back together instead of a rinky dink come along.

Oh, if you haven't done it before just get a piece of round stock about 18" long that is undersize to the master pin and weld a 4 or 5 foot handle onto it that way you can hold it while a buddy gets busy with a good sledge hammer to drive the pin out.
 
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Bob/Ont

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Sep 18, 2012
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Welcome to HEF and good luck with your task.

Any chance of a short write up and some pics? I can see a large diameter chrome rod right behind where you add grease. Is that the surface which requires sealing? Also curious where the best location is for the master link when you split the track.

Look at #5 in Don's lower pic. That is the seal that holds the grease, the piston is behind that. Grease forces it back against the spring bolt and the cyl comes forward to tighten the track.
Later Bob
 
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OldandWorn

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Nov 12, 2009
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908
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Md/Pa
Thanks Don and Bob. I have studied that page in my parts manual but I have a difficult time making heads or tails out of CAT's cut away drawings. I guess it will make sense when I start taking things apart.

BTW Don, my L and probably the OP's have the alligator bolt together style master but most of your info should still apply.

oceanobob, I have an old pair of flip flops set aside for this job. No sense ruining a good pair. ;)
 
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dvs 99

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Sep 25, 2012
Messages
12
Location
Mongomery, TX
Finally got the idler far enough forward. Had to take out 2 shim from the inside. Once they were removed the idler moved much more freely. Seems the further forward it went on the rail the tighter it got. Adjuster is out and I will start the rebuild. Right now I'm tuckered smooth out so will continue tomorrow. Thanks guys and Happy New Year
 

charles walton

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Nov 24, 2012
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Etowah Tennessee
I feel your pain I did that on my 13x last summer and replaced some roller frame bolts and torque converter and all the pumps,but I finally got it going in October and it seems to be a decent machine now.
 

dvs 99

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Sep 25, 2012
Messages
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Location
Mongomery, TX
I feel your pain I did that on my 13x last summer and replaced some roller frame bolts and torque converter and all the pumps,but I finally got it going in October and it seems to be a decent machine now.
Yea, looks like I'll be doing the pumps too. It's transfering fluid out of steering clutches and into the transmission. I can have fluid levals right and work the machine 8 hours, check fluid again, transmission is over full and steering clutch won't even read on stick.
 

charles walton

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Nov 24, 2012
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554
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Etowah Tennessee
Thats not too bad a fix,if they are both workihg good just pull your steering pump off the trans-pump and replace the o-rings,you can take the steering pump apart and check for wear while you have it off they're not too complicated,buy a service manual and a parts book on e-bay if you don-t have one they're a life saver.
 

dvs 99

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Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
12
Location
Mongomery, TX
Thats not too bad a fix,if they are both workihg good just pull your steering pump off the trans-pump and replace the o-rings,you can take the steering pump apart and check for wear while you have it off they're not too complicated,buy a service manual and a parts book on e-bay if you don-t have one they're a life saver.
Thanks Charles, I need all the help I can get. May call on you again. THANKS
 

caterpillarmech

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Nov 7, 2011
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533
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Florence Texas
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Field Service Supervisor
I did on a few years ago and never broke track. I pulled the bolt off the yoke and holders off the fram rail. It wasnt fun but it worked so good guy asked me back to do the other one shortly.
 

OldandWorn

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Md/Pa
I did on a few years ago and never broke track. I pulled the bolt off the yoke and holders off the fram rail. It wasnt fun but it worked so good guy asked me back to do the other one shortly.

Does that mean that you twisted the whole spring assembly towards the outside of the track frame?
 

caterpillarmech

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Florence Texas
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My idlers were not very free. When I dropped the track tension, I pulled the yoke shaft out completely. Then I pulled the two clamps on the front side of the spring that secure it in the frame. It just slides foward out of the rear shaft hole and rotate it out of the frame. I rebuilt both of them on the back of my 1/2 tone truck. I was a lot younger and did it all by hand as a side job. The first one was the best as the guy's brother had already removed the spring with a bottle jack and 2x4's. Thank God he wasn't killed!
 
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dvs 99

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Sep 25, 2012
Messages
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Mongomery, TX
Track adjuster is resealed and back on machine. No problems with the rebuild, very easy. The seal that holds the grease was in a dozen pieces so with new seal installed I'm sure it's fixed. Had to do minor hone work to the cylinder because of pitting but not to concerned about that being where it was (very bottom of cylinder) Was not able to finish the install yesterday cause of rain. The good thing about this fix is it's affordable, 2 seal kits to my door was 48.00 so not bad. The only other cost is grease. When I start the other side I will take some pics and post them for anyone who has not done this. It's really pretty easy.
 

OldandWorn

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Thanks, I would really appreciate that. Only one of mine is bad but I should probably order enough parts for both as the other side might not be far behind. Was there a lot of grease blobed out somewhere under the covers?
 

dvs 99

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Sep 25, 2012
Messages
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Location
Mongomery, TX
Thanks, I would really appreciate that. Only one of mine is bad but I should probably order enough parts for both as the other side might not be far behind. Was there a lot of grease blobed out somewhere under the covers?
All the grease that by-passed the piston was inside the spring. But the way it's made you would not see it until you remove the adjuster. Unless you were to continue to add grease than sooner or later it would come out around where the adjuster slides into the spring. Hope this makes sence
 

OldandWorn

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I can see that now (grease path) looking at Don's parts diagram. Other than the one seal #5, are there any other parts that you wished you would have replaced when it was apart? You mentioned "seal kit" so maybe that includes everything?
 
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