955K Steering Clutch questions

[wagspe208]

I bought the 955K S/N 85J4318 or something like that.
It seems to slow down in forward. Reverse it hauls ass. When going from 1 to 2 to 3 in forward if really loaded it will stall. Not the engine, forward motion. The left pedal goes almost to the floor. The right one not quite that far.
Are there separate forward and reverse clutches? Or just left/ right side.
Give me a quick overview of how it works. I am a mechanic on industrial stuff, not dozers, though.
So, engine, pump, convertor, trans, clutches? Order and such.

Should I drop the $$ for a service manual from Cat, or is there another excellent source?
Thanks
Wags

 

[Buckethead]

I bought the 955K S/N 85J4318 or something like that.
It seems to slow down in forward. Reverse it hauls ass. When going from 1 to 2 to 3 in forward if really loaded it will stall. Not the engine, forward motion.
Wags

I can't know for sure without being there, but what you are describing, sounds like you are shifting to a higher gear when you should be in first. Re: the steering clutches and the power train you really need the Cat service manual. I believe there was a company that made reprints. I think it was called Jensales if I remember correctly. The steering clutches are not hard to adjust, the procedure is in the manual.

 

[wagspe208]

Roger. Are they actually steering clutches, or are they drive clutches? Same for forward and reverse? Or different sets?
I assume you apply the brakes, the clutches slip, machine turns, let off brakes, machine goes back to forward.
I will order a service manual. Ebay OEM pieces are 200. Not cheap, Cat wanted 171 + 9 shipping + 2 weeks as they print them as needed. Ebay ships tomorrow for only 20 more.
Thanks Buckethead.
Wags

 

[Buckethead]

Roger. Are they actually steering clutches, or are they drive clutches?

Not sure what you mean by drive clutches. The steering clutches are between the bevel gear and each final drive.

Same for forward and reverse? Or different sets?

One set of steering clutches.

I assume you apply the brakes, the clutches slip, machine turns, let off brakes, machine goes back to forward.
Wags

Clutch starts to disengage first, (gradual turn) more pressure applies brake for sharp turn.

 

[wagspe208]

Great. That is what I needed to know. I orderd the service manual today.
I'll check adjustmnet (and adjust I am sure) then give it a whirl.
Are they a b*****d to replace if needed? Or tons of cash? I will be doing it. I have time, and am not going to pay someone 100 an hour to do it.
Thanks
Wags

 

[bunkclimber]

steer clutch replace

I'll check adjustmnet (and adjust I am sure) then give it a whirl.
Are they a b*****d to replace if needed?
Thanks
Wags

First,pull the floor pan under the pedals and check the linkage rods that run back to the steering valve(right under the seat) To adjust the clutches there is a small triangle shaped plate on top of the clutch housing(under fuel tank)crank the adjustment bolt all the way in,then out 1-1/2turns. To pull the clutches you have to: remove the ROPS(if equipped),fuel tank and operator deck..You'll need a shop and a good place to do it,pretty involved job to do it right.You might just have a blown o-ring on top of the steer clutch valve,look for oil on top of the bevel gear case under the seat..if you're not a mechanic or mechanically inclined don't even attempt it..

 

[wagspe208]

Thanks for the replies.

I ordered the service manual and had it in my hands Friday. I spent a couple of hours doing the brake, clutch, rod adjustment. The fool who did it last time put in the clevis pins so it was a pita to get them out. I took my time, adjust rods, brakes, the roller things in the rear case, per manual. WOW What a difference! It is a totally different machine. I assume brakes are not long for this world. (which will be a lifetime for me). The left adjuster was in more than the right.

I also freed up the the parking brake. I lubed everything, etc.

I was wondering about the blown o-ring thing also. It seems much better, but maybe slightly sluggish in forward 3. 1 it will push, or spin the tracks, 2 it will spin slowly, 3 up hill it will slow down. (maybe this is correct) However, it seems to propel faster in reverse 3 which could also point to the o-ring thing.

I also adjusted the shift linkage. About 1/2 the time when going from R to F the machine would jump back into R1 (with the lever in F1) Simple obvious adjustment.

Where do I test the pressure for the steering clutch valve?
Thanks
Wags

 

[wagspe208]

BTW, I am a mechanic. Industrial stuff. Hyd. and electric scrubbers and sweepers, so I have pretty good skills. Just need to know how stuff works to figure it out.
Thanks again.
Wags

 

[wagspe208]

OK, the steering clutch/ valve assembly is more rear. Under the seat.
What is under the linkages going to the foot pedal? There are 2 filters (filter and screen I assume which I have not checked yet), then in the center there is a cover.
Thanks
Wags

 

[Rusted]

"was wondering about the blown o-ring thing also. It seems much better, but maybe slightly sluggish in forward 3. 1 it will push, or spin the tracks, 2 it will spin slowly, 3 up hill it will slow down. (maybe this is correct) However, it seems to propel faster in reverse 3 which could also point to the o-ring thing."

It sounds as though it's operating just fine..it will slow down in a high gear if it's under more load...it's telling you it needs to be downshifted. If it's spinning the tracks in 1st and 2nd (less in 2nd is normal for the reasons stated above), there doesn't sound to be too much wrong...keep an eye on your torque converter temp gauge, they will get hot quickly if operated in too high a gear, especially if the cooling system isn't too clean (the trans oil cooler is a heat exchanger using the engine cooling system).

Faster in reverse is normal, they are geared higher in reverse.

 

[wagspe208]

Cool! Thanks, that is the info I was looking for.
Since adjusting the steering clutch linkage rods, brakes, etc it is a totally diferent machine. I was just wanting to be sure it is "right".
It could use a cutting edge, and cylinder seals/ bushings. The seals/ bushings will be a project for when it is to cold to drive it around (or wet).
I also have a couple of gauge questions. One is clouded and cannot see what it is supposed to be. Another is broken. I will try to take a picture and post it so you guys can tell me what I am missing/ need.
Thanks
Wags

 

[Lee-online]

Maybe this will help.

 

[wagspe208]

Awesome. It is the fuel pressure gauge all messed up.
The water temp is cracked. I believe it works, though. I will double check all next weekend.
Wags