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955K eating oil

Nige

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The "ENGINE STOPPED" side of the stick is no more than a method of ensuring the engine has sufficient oil in it to be safe to start.
The more reliable method of determining the correct oil level is to use the other side of the stick with the oil at operating temperature and the engine idling.
An incorrectly-read dipstick could lead to an engine being over-filled with oil that might result in external leaks, which is what I think KSH was driving at above .......
 

Rookie955L

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Louisville,KY
Well just got off the phone with him and he never checked the oil while running. He read the stick side that said warm but he did it with engine off and said it would be low or off the stick. Then he would add oil. I called him an idiot again. With it not running could that be why it was off the stick? Seems logical since that’s literally what the stick says to do ‍♂️. If it was overfilled would it just puke out the vent?

That’s good advice with the wood blocking. How hard is it lining back up to get the bolts in?
 

Nige

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That’s good advice with the wood blocking. How hard is it lining back up to get the bolts in?
If the belly guards are full of material (as they usually are) the hard part is removing them without getting crushed - which is a real danger believe me. Once they have been off and cleaned to get them back up again is a much easier task, so you don't necessarily have to get things lined up perfectly in order to get the guards back up again.
 

56wrench

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I use chains and come-alongs over top of the tracks to lower belly pans on dozer machines. install chains, snug them up, remove bolts(or nuts) and lower them out. then move machine away. when lifting them back up, some wiggling and prying will be necessary to lift them evenly into place and line up the holes. jacks can topple and I feel that the come-alongs are safer. chain type come-alongs are best but good quality cable types will work. you don't want to be under a belly pan or close to it if it falls inadvertantly
 

DMiller

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I use an old floor jack with a home made table to spread the load out(Less tippy), the guide bolt/stud/dowel maneuver I use a LOT.
 

Rookie955L

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That’s great advice! Guide bolts and chains sounds like my plan of action.

Has anyone seen the difference commonly seen on a dipstick running at idle vs hot engine and off?
 

Nige

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Nothing like 1st hand info.......... so I walked into the workshop and took photos of a dipstick from one of our engines.
As you can see there is a difference of approximately 2" between the two "FULL" marks. So if somebody filled to the full mark on the "ENGINE RUNNING" side of the stick while the engine was stopped the oil level would be about 2" too high. The distance between the two FULL lines on your dipstick will be different I am certain. However the principle remains the same.

upload_2019-4-7_14-11-41.png
upload_2019-4-7_14-13-12.png
 
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Rookie955L

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Nige, thanks for taking the time with the photos. I’m sure he overfilled it and that’s where the puking oil has come from. Now I gotta find out if it cause any damage or just corrected itself. How big of a difference could be on the dipstick between running at idle and not running but a hot engine? Not enough to have no oil on the stick but if the engine had been running it show middle or at full?
 

Nige

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On that particular dipstick in my photos above - 2"
On your 955 dipstick - Dunno - whatever the measurement is between the FULL marks one one side of the stick and the other.
Will the overfilling have done any damage..? I would not think so.
 

kshansen

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One thought or two might be if the belly pan is chuck full the vent pipe might be restricted enough to where the oil is not draining back to pan fast enough while running. Next if oil level is too high the crank could whip it up enough to cause it to foam and that is not good for bearings. I recall being told there were some Cummins engine that would take out a bearing fast if run a couple inches high on oil. Not sure if that was the 903 or the 555.

So I am thinking first order is to get off the belly pans and clean out things good and see if or what is leaking. Strongly suggest anti-seeze on belly pan bolts, make getting them of the next time much nicer job.

Also make it a standard part of maintenance to wash them out regularly, depending on work conditions might not need removing every time but at the least once a year drop and clean very good so hoses and such can be inspected. It will not only help the machine run cooler but when repairs are needed down there it will be much easier and faster work.
 

DMiller

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I had considered then my aging mind got distracted again
Pans on my crawler were packed tight
Would have been a spectacular fire
 

Rookie955L

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Peat bog fire huh? Ha, I’ll have that pan dropped and cleaned and we’ll track this down. As I’m looking at doing a filter and fluid service at the same time I’m crawling around it, where is everyone getting their fluids for Hydrualics, Eng Oil, Trans, and Final drives? I looked up the past recommendations on weights for each but not sure the best place to get the fluids that are CAT comparable.

Thanks as usual!
 

kshansen

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I had no say in the source of fluids at the quarry, that was a corporate thing from down in Texas, last I knew they were still using ExxonMobil.
 

Rookie955L

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Louisville,KY
Guess I’m meaning locally. I’ve got a Wahyne CAT near by but was hoping Tractor Supply or NAPA would have the fluids. I know hydrualics can be touchy with different types.
 
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