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76 D4D new toy with problems

Un4gvn

Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2022
Messages
41
Location
Pine Bluff AR
I just made a deal on a D4D With power shift and angle blade. I think I will enjoy this machine if repairs don't kill me. The biggest issue is when you grab the left turn handle and step on the brake it stops pulling. First powershift dozer I've been on and didn't have much time to mess with it. Anyone want to jump in there with some info?Screenshot_20221129-123233_Facebook.jpg
 

TomA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Messages
145
Location
Mariposa, CA
Fortunately problem is probably not related to transmission. Likely slop in cross shaft bearings (not good). You may be able to compensate with more free travel in steering clutch adjustments.
 

OzDozer

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Jan 18, 2007
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Perth, Western Australia.
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Semi-Retired ..
The LH steering clutch is not releasing (not disengaging), and the likely cause is a blown piston ring seal in the clutch release mechanism, which is adjacent to the steering clutch itself.
You need to remove the fuel tank, seat assembly, steering clutch covers, and then unbolt and remove the steering clutch to access the clutch actuation piston.

TomA is correct, often the blown clutch piston seal is caused by bad bevel gear bearings on the cross-shaft. You've got some work in front of you.

Oh, and those track shoes are in serious need of a grouser rebuild. You won't be able to push a full blade without a lot of trackspin while they're like that. And badly worn grousers lead to bent track shoes.
 

OzDozer

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O.M., aren't the powershift D4D's a 47H serial # prefix? The powershift D4D's still used the mechanical yoke and bearing setup for steering clutch release? O.K., my error, I thought they went over to full hydraulic steering clutch operation when they brought out the powershift models. In that case, likely a failed throwout bearing. This still means steering clutch removal.
 

Un4gvn

Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2022
Messages
41
Location
Pine Bluff AR
What all needs to be removed to remove the steering clutch? I know the dozer needs work but I like it and got a fair buy on it.
 

OzDozer

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You have to remove the fuel tank, seat assembly and all the supports under the seat frame assembly, brake linkages, and lift off steering clutch compartment cover. Disconnect steering clutch yoke linkage.
The clutches are held in by a row of bolts around each side of the clutch assembly.
You need to chain up the blade before you start and allow room to move the tractor backwards or forwards a foot or two, so you can access all the clutch retaining bolts.
You move the tractor a little at a time, using a bottle jack against a grouser, to turn the clutches so you can access the retaining bolts. You can usually lift steering clutches out utilising the brake band. Connect a lifting cable or chain to the band. Make sure the band is centred on the clutch, and the chain/cable is acting to tighten the brake band as you lift.
The D4 has the brake bands secured to the bottom of the steering clutch main housing, these bolts must be undone from the underside.
You may have to remove the canopy or part of it to allow the clutch to come out.
Do the bearings in both clutches while you're in there. If there are 2 similar components in a Cat (one each side), they will both generally be in the same condition, so it pays to do both at once.
Check the bevel gear/cross-shaft bearings as well, they need to be in good shape. If the bearing races show serious wear, it pays to replace them.

The powershift D4D is a nice little tractor, it was designed as a construction machine. Good to hear you got a good buy, now comes the exciting part - pouring a whole heap more money into it, so it provides reliable service! :(
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
On your tractor the cross shaft, bevel gear, steering clutches, brakes and bearings all come out in one piece about 500 pounds.
there is quite a bit of tools and fitting on this job and a bunch of expensive parts.
You may want to consider hiring help as in someone who has done this job before
Good luck
Bad Bob.
 

OzDozer

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Here's a guy on YooToob who shows a D4D steering clutch and brake removal job, pretty much explaining all the fine details very well. He's got one crowded shop! Bluox is right, doing the job on your own with no experience would not be recommended, you would also be well-advised to acquire the correct Cat D4D service manual, or at least the inserts which show disassembly and assembly, and the insert which gives all the crucial specifications for clearances, etc.

A good high-pressure washdown makes working on these areas a whole lot easier. I wouldn't disassemble a tractor with this much dirt still on it, but everyone works differently.
Be careful wailing on cast iron housings with big hammers, this mechanic is making me cringe with his hammering on that steering clutch housing cover. Big crowfoot prybars of high quality, are your best investment on this job.

I'm of the opinion that slackening the fender bolts more at the rear, would have assisted in his removal of the steering clutch housing cover.
And most Cat housings have threaded holes in the flanges or lips where you can screw in bolts to separate housings, rather than attacking the housing with a chisel to separate it.

 
Last edited:

epirbalex

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
554
Location
Akitio
Occupation
peasant
Yeah I'm all on my own on this. But I've never failed at a job yet so I'll just jump into it. Any info is appreciated!!!
A tractor front end loader or a workshop hand operated hoist if you haven't got an overhead gantry crane . Whats happened to yours is just the same as my D47U , bearings were all right to use again on mine , just lost their tightness and the crown wheel moves over when using the steering but can't go too far when using the other side steering clutch , which still worked , as the crown wheel comes against the pinion . If this is the issue the crown wheel should be on the right of the pinion when viewed from the rear of the dozer otherwise could be another fault . Hopefully its only just happened as it would damage the crown wheel and pinion if its been used a lot with the loose bearings fault .
 

.RC.

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Nov 27, 2012
Messages
763
Location
Qld, Australia
Yeah I'm all on my own on this. But I've never failed at a job yet so I'll just jump into it. Any info is appreciated!!!

All I can offer is that if it is a 1976 model, it will have a wet backend as in the steering clutches and brakes are immersed in oil. All the earlier ones were dry.
 

OzDozer

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Perth, Western Australia.
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Old Magnet is right, need that serial # on the tag on the upright face of the rear of the steering clutch housing, so we know exactly the right setup we're dealing with. There's often a lot of engineering changes with Cats, even in the one tractor model.
 

Bluox

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Location
WA state
I'm having it moved for me later this week. I'll have a lot more info when it gets here.
Your serial # will be on a plate on the bottom of the dash or the left side of the bevel gear housing above the track sprocket, although this one will most likely be gone but the numbers should be stamped in the housing.
In the real world unless they gave you about $15 K and the machine it won't be "a good buy".
Bad Bob
 
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