75/25 or 90/10 for welding loader arm?

[StanRUS]

Thanks, but i have a disconnect between the NR211 and the E71T-9 wire. We are talking about different wires, no? I tend to agree the e71t-11 i have is not correct for this repair.

Yes two different types of wires NR211 is self shielding flux core
/ E71T-9 is gas shielded flux core
ESAB E71T-9
https://www.esab.ca/ca/en/products/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.product&productCode=12594

ALL welding smoke / fumes have negative health affects

 

[Welder Dave]

In your first picture there is no gap. You may have been a little too hasty with the cutting torch when you started this repair. You need to have exact reference points to take measurements. A slight gap in the repair would be beneficial because it will shrink some on cooling. When pipe welding they calculate for the gap closing 1/2 its original space. Not sure how much the loader arm would shrink but bracing would help with that. If it's twisted at the heavy cross member you may have to cut some of the weld(s) out to get it straight. I'd have to see it person and if I had more time than money to do the repair may even completely cut off the cross member from the bad arm and then weld it back on aligned with the other arm. The big question is after all the work will you be successful. Someone must have thought they were driving a 994 to abuse it that bad.

 

[Steve Bowman]

Foundry work. We currently use a hydraulic breaker mounted to a similar loader to "knock the bottom out" of the cupola. You basically reach in under an overhang to bust out a material very much like concrete with the breaker pounted up.

When this loader was in service, there was no hydraulic breaker. Just the bit mounted solidly to the loader arms. Then beat on the bottom using the hydraulics for up to 8 hrs(whatever it took). We do this every 4-6 weeks.

 

[Steve Bowman]

I will admit, I am trying to polish a turd. But the engine/hydraulics are very strong. The thing is already hell to look at.

 

[Steve Bowman]

E71T-GS is what is available here locally.

Trying to find out the difference between this and the -9 or -1 wire. Looks closer to the -11 to me.

 

[ETER]

Steve,
Several years ago I was pushing banks back with my old W20B, it was a sub-zero Jan. afternoon, hit a some hidden bedrock (hard enough it put me up on the steering wheel)...raised the boom up to dump the load of snow and realized pretty soon what I broke by how crooked the bucket was.
Limped the loader into the shop, figured I was going to have to remove the boom from the machine to do a "proper" repair...Ended up only removing the wheel, torched bevels on both sides the 1-3/4" thick arm and pulled back into position with several chains and binders.
Pre-heated about a foot both ways from the break, a few pounds of 1/8" 7018 (all I had at the time) lots of small hot passes (with peening between) then wrapped with some R19 insul.
Put the wheel back on the next day and put it back to work!
Didn't grind down the welds for plating due to how close the break was to the pin boss (I figured if it broke again, it would only be me mad at me!).
Regards, Bob

 

[Steve Bowman]

Yea, those "get by" jobs tend to last and last. Lol.

I did find this...


Still no real clear definition of the "useability" collumn, but that does show there us a difference in the -GS and the -11.
Either are suitable for no shield gas, but just the GS is listed for use with gas.

Lucky me... a buddy had a new 10lb spool of the -gs. Good thing I passed on the GS at the parts store this morning. Saved me $70 or so. Yay.

So, maybe i will give the GS a go.

And regarding the gap... turns out a short piece of 1/8 key stock fit snug.

Thanks

 

[Welder Dave]

E71T-GS is even worse than the E71T-11. It doesn't have to meet any AWS specs. It is self shielded as well. I refer to the GS as generally shi--y. I've never seen a gas shielded GS wire. It even says in your post above for single pass welds only. We told you what type of welding wire to use but instead of listening to experience you're trying to find a different wire without having any knowledge on the subject. YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME AND OURS if you aren't going to listen. Wires that list low temperature impact strength is what you want and this was mentioned. It basically means they are designed for dynamic loading applications where welds can be subject to twisting and stress as opposed to static loads where the welds aren't under stress. An example of the difference would be if you had a steel table rated for 1000lbs. A static load rating would be for holding 1000lbs. sitting on the table. A dynamic load would be for 1000lbs. dropped on the table from 10' above. Big difference! Your other thread maybe not be but this one is sure headed the way of the D6 loss of oil pressure thread. You ask for advise but then question it. Why ask if you aren't going to use it?

 

[Steve Bowman]

I am not TRYING to find a different wire. That is all I am able to find for this weekend, simple as that.

I do value and appreciate the input. I am glad you responded and stopped me from a mistake.

Sure, you told me the -11 wasn't what I want to use - I took that advice and kept looking. THIS IS THE 1ST TIME I have heard that the GS is worse than the -11. I found that chart, which says the GS can be shielded. I latched onto the shielded rating, and I guess I minimized the "single pass" spec. My bad.

I am going to take the advice. That's why I keep positing updates regarding my frustration on finding the right wire on a Saturday. Why do so many places sell the sh!tty wire!!! And nobody open during "off hours" carries the good stuff?

I guess I will say the hell with buying local and buy from Amazon, once again, and wait a couple of days.

But really, thank you guys for the help.

 

[Steve Bowman]

Help a dummy understand the numbers.

The specs on ALL OF THEM imply 70,000psi, all position, flux core.
It seems that the ONLY difference on paper is the "useability" collumn.

Surely you can see how easy it would be to go astray.

So, if I am going to order ONE WIRE, should it be the -1 or the -9? Or, should I go with the Lincoln NR-233 which appears to be a -8?

The -1??? Can't believe it is that cheap - $35 for 10#
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Demon-E...ie=UTF8&qid=1546720354&sr=8-2&keywords=e71t-1

 

[StanRUS]

E71T-GS is even worse than the E71T-11. It doesn't have to meet any AWS specs. It is self shielded as well. I refer to the GS as generally shi--y. I've never seen a gas shielded GS wire. It even says in your post above for single pass welds only. We told you what type of welding wire to use but instead of listening to experience you're trying to find a different wire without having any knowledge on the subject. YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME AND OURS if you aren't going to listen. Wires that list low temperature impact strength is what you want and this was mentioned. It basically means they are designed for dynamic loading applications where welds can be subject to twisting and stress as opposed to static loads where the welds aren't under stress. An example of the difference would be if you had a steel table rated for 1000lbs. A static load rating would be for holding 1000lbs. sitting on the table. A dynamic load would be for 1000lbs. dropped on the table from 10' above. Big difference! Your other thread maybe not be but this one is sure headed the way of the D6 loss of oil pressure thread. You ask for advise but then question it. Why ask if you aren't going to use it?

Ha, try WalMart, Homedepot hobbyist welder's section you'll be able to purchase a better wire for your project.

Short video, kid welder want-a-be after 5 minutes of instructions by my neighbor, a 35yr plus professional welder just off a off-shore project. Vertical Up and Overhead; the youngster will qualify for AWS All-positions.

Steve sorry,
After 65yrs of welding I am worn out from giving how-to advise. Lincoln Outershield 71M is a very forgiving, easy to use wire!!!!!!!!! Your Miller 210 will run 71M using Reverse Polarity versus Straight Polarity; bit of extra duty cycle time. 71M feeds good (harder and stiffer), doesn't stick @ mig-tip from overheating like ESAB or Hobart wires.

Example photos of using 0.045" 71M completely 'out of normal parameters' and ignoring welding procedures bell-whistles and lollipops . Cast hardened steel parts coated with tungsten carbide hard facing.

Must work emergency fix it. Supplier ran out of replacement teeth the come from Spain via air-freight.

PS: don't use keyway stock to fill gaps. Bang a stick of 7018 against the steel arm to knock the flux off, way cheaper.

 

[John C.]

Gentlemen, there is a big difference between fixing a production machine the “right way” and fixing a toy as best as you can. As far as wasting anyone’s time goes, you can opt out from posting and put your time somewhere else.

 

[Steve Bowman]

True, but don't opt out.

As ugly as this may seem, surely it will save someone else similar frustration.

Plus, we still don't know the difference between the -1, -8 or -9.

 

[Steve Bowman]

Stan, missed your edit.

So the Lincoln 71M, is different than the T-? Variants how? The T designates "tubular". I assume S is solid, but I wonder what M is?

Your description certainly sounds like it deserves a spot in the toolbox.

 

[Welder Dave]

The waste of time would be to do a repair like this loader arm only to have it fail because you were in a hurry and couldn't wait to get the proper welding wire. It's not going to be a 2 hour patch it up repair. Most T-1 wires are also T-9 but that shouldn't be a concern. Trying to figure out and understand all the numbers and classifications of Flux-Core wires could make even the most seasoned welder go insane. Self-Shielded compared to Dual Shield is a completely different animal. All that really matters is using the correct wire for the application along with the proper procedure. I suggested the 71M Lincoln because it would be a good choice and comes in .035". Not all manufacturers have .035" in Dual Shield. .045" or 1/16" would have been a better choice but would need a bigger machine than an MM210. Using self-shielded wire for the 1st time on a repair like this is a recipe for disaster. I have no problem offering advise on something I'm experienced with but if the advise I'm giving is going to be constantly questioned is a waste of everybody's time.
This repair is a lot more than what is considered a DIY repair. Box stores sell wire for DIY repairs because they sell welders for DIY repair. Welding supplies sell wire and machines for heavy duty repairs. Isn't there a welding supply in Southern Ohio?

 

[Steve Bowman]

Thanks for that.

Yes, airgas, delille, and others. But nearly all close at 5, with no saturday hours. And, 45 minutes away at the closest. That's some my frustration.

 

[Welder Dave]

Ha, try WalMart, Homedepot hobbyist welder's section you'll be able to purchase a better wire for your project.

Short video, kid welder want-a-be after 5 minutes of instructions by my neighbor, a 35yr plus professional welder just off a off-shore project. Vertical Up and Overhead; the youngster will qualify for AWS All-positions.

Steve sorry,
After 65yrs of welding I am worn out from giving how-to advise. Lincoln Outershield 71M is a very forgiving, easy to use wire!!!!!!!!! Your Miller 210 will run 71M using Reverse Polarity versus Straight Polarity; bit of extra duty cycle time. 71M feeds good (harder and stiffer), doesn't stick @ mig-tip from overheating like ESAB or Hobart wires.

Example photos of using 0.045" 71M completely 'out of normal parameters' and ignoring welding procedures bell-whistles and lollipops . Cast hardened steel parts coated with tungsten carbide hard facing.
View attachment 190675 View attachment 190676 View attachment 190677
Must work emergency fix it. Supplier ran out of replacement teeth the come from Spain via air-freight.

PS: don't use keyway stock to fill gaps. Bang a stick of 7018 against the steel arm to knock the flux off, way cheaper.

That kid looks like he's really paying attention. Only thing I would suggest is cover up his bare arms. I look like a drug addict from doing overhead 6010. LoL You get used to the burns but they still hurt.

 

[Steve Bowman]

Dave, Your pdf link for the 71M says...

Mild Steel, All Position • AWS E71T-9C-J, E71T-9M-J, E71T1-C1A4-CS1-H16, E71T1-M21A4-CS1-H16

I do not intend to defy your advice, but the E71T-9 and E71T1 are listed there. I assumed they are the equivelant. And matching all the other mumbo jumbo for the most economical purchase is what i have been attempting when asking about the Blue Demon E71T-1/1M wire I linked to.

Perhaps I misinterpet the text.

 

[Welder Dave]

I'd go with a name brand wire. Blue Demon is an offshore knock off at best. See what the welding supply has.

 

[Steve Bowman]

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