charles walton
Senior Member
Do any of you fellas have any experience with bleeding the master and slave cylinder on one of these old Dodge’s? It has a 230Cummins and a rto9513 and I let it sit for a while and now the clutch won’t disengage.
What would be the best way to get it broke loose if that was the problem. I think that could be it because the fluid reservoir was full when I checked it so I don’t see how it could have gotten air in it.And more than likely the clutch discs possibly froze to intermediate plate, should have a
14" twin disc and possibly organic material on friction disc/plate. Those can rust to the
intermediate plate.
That’s my problem, I don’t have anyone to help me with it at all.Remove the bell housing inspection cover, have someone push the pedal down to see if
it's pulling/moving the throw-out bearing at least 1/2" {with engine off} first.
Wife or girlfriend time. Nothing enhances a relationship like working together. Especially when things don't go right, and if swearing or spiders are involved.That’s my problem, I don’t have anyone to help me with it at all.
I finally got around to messing with the Dodge some more today and I put some batteries in it and cranked it,patched the airline to engage the pto where the mice had chewed it into and then I tried the clutch and it is working but the pedal is right on the floor. I haven’t used it much in the past 2 years and it has always been low but it seems much lower now. I just don’t know where to start trying to adjust it. I can’t get it in gear without cutting it off and restarting it right now but if I push the clutch hard into the floor I can stop it without it dying.Remove the bell housing inspection cover, have someone push the pedal down to see if
it's pulling/moving the throw-out bearing at least 1/2" {with engine off} first.
How do you check for air?First--make sure there is no air in hydraulic system--then adjust.
Ok I found the bleeder valve. You said pump it a few times and let it gravity bleed,does the pedal need to be in while it bleeds out?Bleed it at bleeder screw/valve on slave cylinder at bell housing area. Make sure master is full
of Dot 3 fluid first.
Sometimes blocking pedal down does help other times it will make no difference.Ok I found the bleeder valve. You said pump it a few times and let it gravity bleed,does the pedal need to be in while it bleeds out?
I pulled the bleeder valve out and it was dry at first and then after a few minutes it got wet. I’m going to let it sit for a while and see if it starts running out. I know absolutely nothing about how to proceed but I’m just guessing.Sometimes blocking pedal down does help other times it will make no difference.
A while back I was able to get a little more pedal but I let it sit with the bleeder screw open and it never lost any fluid but I lost the pedal. I’m wondering if the valve is bad. Any thoughts on it?Just make sure you keep the master cylinder full, do not let it run dry. If it drips out a 1/4 cup
try it to see if it gained any extra pedal.
So you think the master cylinder is actually the culprit? I found some master cylinder that looks like it on line for 45-65 dollars and I would rather just go new if that’s the problem.I think you need to pull the master cyl and repair it and if the slave is leaking from the boot, remove it and repair it too. After disassembly and cleaning, inspect the bore for excessive rust damage before honing. Sometimes honing will remove light rust damage, otherwise the cyl may have to be replaced. In your case, i would just replace the cups and see how long it lasts. If the boot is good, reuse it and just replace the cups- they are cheap.
More than likely it is bypassing fluid in either master or slave cylinders. Finding exact new might beSo you think the master cylinder is actually the culprit? I found some master cylinder that looks like it on line for 45-65 dollars and I would rather just go new if that’s the problem.