71 580 ck in chassis overhaul

[John580CK]

getting into an in chassis engine overhaul on my ck, d188. wondering if anyone has links to info on this? have searched forums here and haven't found any. thx in advance!

 

[Coy Lancaster]

Have fun it's fairly simple to do remove head, remove the piston and rods, remove oil pan and change out each main bearing one at a time using a nail or other suitable object to remove the upper main bearing halves by inserting it into the oil hole and turn to remove it.

 

[Vetech63]

That engine is one of the easiest and simple designs to overhaul. Its a perfect trainer.

 

[Tinkerer]

Thanks to the good people at Minnparr you can download free service and parts manuals in the link I am posting.
The parts books show the complete list of parts, unlike the butchered up CNH online parts books that do not show obsolete (no longer available) parts.

https://minnpar.com/manuals4.aspx?FName=CASE (CNH) MANUALS&SFName=CNH (CASE) LOADER BACKHOE MANUALS&SSFName=BACKHOE (CASE) 580 SERIES PARTS MANUALS

 

[John580CK]

thank you for the responses guys. I have all of the manuals for this machine and am familiar with most procedures involved with rebuilding an engine. I am looking for a thread where someone has done the overhaul to maybe find some specifics I may have not thought of. I have to find the source of the metal that is in the pan so this engine may need to come out. Head is already at machine shop and got the oil pan off yesterday. any links or experience is greatly appreciated. I am not the best with searching this website.

 

[Vetech63]

I have to find the source of the metal that is in the pan so this engine may need to come out

Pull the oil pan and start looking at the bearings before you pull that engine. Everything you will need to know is right here on this forum through people that have done this stuff their entire working life. Pictures are going to help move this along. You are in the best hands so lets get this going!

 

[John580CK]

Pull the oil pan and start looking at the bearings before you pull that engine. Everything you will need to know is right here on this forum through people that have done this stuff their entire working life. Pictures are going to help move this along. You are in the best hands so lets get this going!

I appreciate your willingness to help. I can post pics of the debris if you would like. I was hoping to read through a thread someone else has made about this subject before asking a bunch of questions here that have already been answered. links would be awesome. I got the pan off yesterday,thats how I know there is metal in it. There is a lot of fine sludge type metal and several thin flakes of a different metal. I was just saying that if I can't find the source of these in chassis, I will have to pull it out.

 

[Delmer]

easiest way to find old threads is "heavyequipmentforums.com case 188 rebuild" in your search engine/address bar. the search function in a forum can never match a search engine.

 

[John580CK]

easiest way to find old threads is "heavyequipmentforums.com case 188 rebuild" in your search engine/address bar. the search function in a forum can never match a search engine.


Thank you!

 

[Funny farm]

when i rebuilt my 188 i made a post on here along the way. check the pilot bores closely if ur changing sleeves. common to have corrosion in that area and can cause sealing issues. i found one rod bearing completely gone and a badly worn oil pump. i did a major overhaul kit not an in frame tho. fairly simple engine to work on. there a bolt in the top that has an oil passage thru it. make sure to keep the head and rocker bolts in their original locations. not sure how to link the old post i did on my rebuild but it’s on here somewhere lol.

 

[John580CK]

well guys,it doesn't appear that an inframe overhaul is going to cut it on this one. the crank needs to come out. Now I am looking for advice on how to safely remove engine while loader is propped up,looks kind of scary pulling the front axle and engine out from under it. any past thread links or info on this would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Funny farm]

when i split mine it was in the gravel driveway in the early winter. i removed the loader bucket and arms as they needed the bosses repaired badly. when the loader and bucket were removed, but not the backhoe the tractor would tip back from the weight on the rear. had to use several bottle jacks to support it from tipping back on the hoe. one at each side under the hoe mount arms and one under each side up front more. just rearward of where the engine splits from the shuttle. placed an engine hoist from the front chained to the rear of the engine to support the engine/ front end as it was split. rolled the front end forward and then supported the front end assembly and re set the engine hoist to lift the engine from the front end. with some common sense and careful blocking and or jacking it actually split easier than i expected. i did a fairly detailed post on here. ill see if i can find it. it may help give u some ideas. one 20 ton jack at each corner of the rear section made it easy to adjust it around to re align everything after the rebuild.

 

[Funny farm]

i found the old post. it’s fairly long. about 12 pages but might be helpful. search “ any advise on 188 engine swap in my old ck “. i’m not sure how to link it to this post to make it easier to find. sorry. maybe some one else will know how to.or if u search my posts u should see if a few pages back. good luck and work safe.

 

[John580CK]

i found the old post. it’s fairly long. about 12 pages but might be helpful. search “ any advise on 188 engine swap in my old ck “. i’m not sure how to link it to this post to make it easier to find. sorry. maybe some one else will know how to.or if u search my posts u should see if a few pages back. good luck and work safe.

THANK YOU for the info and thread. My problem is I have ho removed and loader all the way up positioned in my barn and no longer moves itself or hydraulic operation.looks kind of scary.

 

[John580CK]

if anyone has any info on where I might be able to find used parts for this in my area I would be grateful. I live in south west Michigan but have no problem traveling a couple hours..thx

 

[Funny farm]

THANK YOU for the info and thread. My problem is I have ho removed and loader all the way up positioned in my barn and no longer moves itself or hydraulic operation.looks kind of scary.

yeah i bet it does. i thought maybe the hoe was still attached and would add the counter weight to help hold the tractor from tipping forward. hopefully someone can chime in on how to do it with the hoe removed. i’m sure with some blocking and or jacking, as far forward as u can get and still be supporting the rear section from tipping forward. that it will stay put. if there’s a way to tie off the loader to the ceiling somehow?? if it’s fully in the up position it should transfer weight toward the middle more than if it was lowered halfway or so. good luck and work safe

 

[John580CK]

yeah i bet it does. i thought maybe the hoe was still attached and would add the counter weight to help hold the tractor from tipping forward. hopefully someone can chime in on how to do it with the hoe removed. i’m sure with some blocking and or jacking, as far forward as u can get and still be supporting the rear section from tipping forward. that it will stay put. if there’s a way to tie off the loader to the ceiling somehow?? if it’s fully in the up position it should transfer weight toward the middle more than if it was lowered halfway or so. good luck and work safe

I'm thinking the only safe way to go about this is to remove the loader. how exactly does the main loader pivot come apart? looks like you remove the nuts and the shaft slides out. is this correct?

 

[Funny farm]

I'm thinking the only safe way to go about this is to remove the loader. how exactly does the main loader pivot come apart? looks like you remove the nuts and the shaft slides out. is this correct?

my original loader pin was long gone and was just a piece of bar with bolts holding it in. i believe the proper pin is a long pin with a nut on the end. it has a shoulder the nut stops against and u shim behind the nut to get the desired amount of free play. to answer the question yes. u remove the nut and take the long pin out. remove the bucket ( or at least i did ). disconnect the hoses and remove the lift and hydra level cyl pins. pull the loader pin and lift off the arms. i had a friend help with his backhoe to lift the arms clear of the machine.

 

[John580CK]

my original loader pin was long gone and was just a piece of bar with bolts holding it in. i believe the proper pin is a long pin with a nut on the end. it has a shoulder the nut stops against and u shim behind the nut to get the desired amount of free play. to answer the question yes. u remove the nut and take the long pin out. remove the bucket ( or at least i did ). disconnect the hoses and remove the lift and hydra level cyl pins. pull the loader pin and lift off the arms. i had a friend help with his backhoe to lift the arms clear of the machine.

thank you...this going to be fun now that its set up in the barn...lol