'68 580CK Project

[Juskatla]

onemank6 - No name yet but as it gets closer to start up and final assembly, I'll have to pick something. Last year when all went to a full stop, I had more than a few choice names but that's in the past now. I'm just happy to be moving on this again, even if a bit slower than I wanted. Some months left on the treatments but Wednesday's consultation was very positive.

khansen - As much as I like the adventure its a bit trying at times to get stuff done over here but when its done, it will be great. The actual batch plant is only a few miles from here as the crow flies but a couple of hours minimum via the trains, planes and automobiles route. Tuesday will be an expensive day but at least its done.

Grady - The hood and hose come from Axis and I have a turbine made by Hobbyair that is their upscaled #2 model with larger air volume. I found I don't need it and if time wasn't an issue, I would have built my own. See YouTube for one disassembled. Its essentially a vacuum motor with a speed control to adjust air flow. I would use a built in vacuum system motor, a HEPA intake filter and a home built speed control. Hoses use garden hose fittings but I think they a food grade, so no funny Chinese rubber or plastic smells. They are cheap enough to buy. I have quick connects and just set up the supply turbine speed before closing up and heading outdoors to paint. Because we are using the upstairs rooms in the shop as temporary living space while the build is going on, I won't paint inside.

Here is good resource for this system and other stuff - http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=ABS&Category_Code=HP
I got my stuff from Aircraft Spruce that has a Canadian outlet in Ontario - http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/categories/building_materials/bm/menus/to/paint.html

The foundation is a combination of 8" Logix ICF and conventional formed walls. The bracing you see on the outside of the ICF forms is 2x4 used to support the walkway needed for the concrete placing and ensuring the walls are vertical. It will remain until the builder gets the floor system in place and then they will take it down. We'll peel and stick the outside of the ICFs and then put dimple mat up before backfilling. Perimeter drains and drain rock come later. For the reinforcing, we put 5/8 bar into the footings, and added 4' rebar vertically in to the footing on 16" centres. As the ICF forms were set up, each row has another horizontal 5/8 bar and full height vertical pieces were placed on 16" centres. All together, we put 2200' of rebar into the footings and foundation walls. This was all engineered as part of the design. If I was to consider having this done again, I would do all the foundation and lower floor walls in ICF but we saved some concrete in the footings by using conventional forms for the deeper part. The upper section with the ICFs sits on solid rock which we blasted and hauled away. I have contracted a builder for most of this and will not be doing much myself as originally planned. I'll focus on the tractor.

Thanks for the interest. I'm hoping to get some small parts ready for another batch of painting so we can start the long anticipated assembly. The cab panels are still at my home after sandblasting and epoxy primer and will get transported back here when I bring another load in my pickup.

Once day at a time....

 

[Grady]

Jusk, I saw the vertical 2x4's but it looks like something like rebar between the 2x's on the outside of the forms. It's hard to tell from here - Looks good though. That painting looks good, too - like factory. I recently painted some staging with some 2 part epoxy and that is some tough stuff. I put it on good and thick and it took about a week to dry but it's tougher than I thought it would be.

 

[Juskatla]

Grady, If you are looking at the plywood forms, those bars on the outside are 'whalers' or whatever local name used. The plywood has holes drilled through and a steel tie strap is inserted through the form. The strap has a slot through both ends and the steel 'whaler' slides into the slot to hold the form at whatever thickness the straps are. In this case, its all 8". When the concrete is placed, the forms spread to the full 8" against the straps and bars. When its stripped, the bars are removed, and the ends of the straps are cut off. The other method used involves round ties and a wedge on each outside end to hold the form width. Later today, I'll get a couple of pictures of the setup. Once you see it up close, you will probably recognize both systems as they are very common. ICFs have becoming the norm here as they provide easy set up and insulation in place. The added costs are offset by not having to use materials to form that don't always have a use in the build later. We'll use as much of the 2x4 as possible for shorts and blocking and the 5/8 fir plywood will be used as temporary floor on the decks and full sheets may get cleaned and find their way as roof sheeting if we are short any. The invoices are in for last Tuesdays concrete placing and all in, barging, concrete and the pump it went to $15k in a 12 hour day. This was over budget but the access changed in July and made the barge runs much longer. Glad its done, now the builder can get back to work while the weather is reasonable.

On the tractor project, today I have some help to move the large pieces of the loader frame into the shop. They are both painted and ready to mount as soon as get a few other small things painted on the tractor itself. Easier to touch up the orange before the yellow loader stuff goes back on. Pictures to follow.

 

[Grady]

Those must be West Coast Whalers. I've never seen that kind before. I have used the wedge type with round and rectangle ties. The only thing I don't like about the ICFs is the insulation on the inside of the building deprives you of the benefit of so much thermal mass. I'd rather have that extra insulation on the outside but it probably gets much colder here. Some ICFs do allow for removable plywood on one side. Also, the web ties that you use for screwing the exterior sheathing to seem less than adequate to the task. If you're only using them for the foundation, that is less of an issue. I was thinking of building wall forms using 2x6 on the outside and leaving them in place after the pour and then spraying foam insulation and having good nailing for sheathing, siding, etc. The 2x4 inside ones could be removed or left for interior finishing, wires, plumbing, etc. I really like those styrofoam floor forms that integrate joists into the floor slab. I was thinking of using them for the roof as well.

 

[Juskatla]

Grady, I misspelled the term 'waler' and they are very common for form work and most often with reusable rented forms. As we didn't want to pay to haul anything back, we just used 4x8 fir plywood. The attached pictures are of the waler bar and quick ties that we used for most of the work. They can be used vertically or horizontal, depending on the forms you have available. The other is the old snap tie and wedge that went in on a column footing that went in to support some 8x8 timber frame posts.

ICF has become a lot more common here but is still largely just foundations. Some years ago, we had a 3 story commercial infill building built that used both ICF walls and the floor ICF beams. In the end, once the siding was one, you couldn't tell it wasn't framed like the older ones on each side. With many different ICF manufacturers these days, you can pick various thicknesses of inside and outside forms. What is available locally will help make that decision. For our use, the major local suppler carries Logix, so that's what we did. The engineer decided the rebar schedule and core thickness. In a different setting, I wouldn't hesitate to use ICFs for the walls. Over here on the little island, the logistics for concrete make that prohibitively expensive. The web ties on the system we are using are very strong and I have no concern if the correct fastener and schedule are used. Different manufacturers may vary but I do think most have proven out if they are still in the market.

The last picture is one of the two loader side frames waiting to be moved inside until we are ready to put them back on the tractor. I still have a few smaller parts to do and the top side of the hood if the weather will cooperate in the next two days. My cheapo HVLP Harbour Freight gun is doing pretty good for the little it cost. On the next cross border raid, I'll get another one. View attachment 173583 View attachment 173583

 

[Grady]

Thanks for the close up of those form ties. I've only ever used the wedge type on 2x forms around here. It's always nice having a thousand things going on at once, huh? Looks like you've got a handle on things though. Keep the pics coming.

 

[Juskatla]

Grady, they are 'Quick Strip' ties according to the box. Primarily used on reuseable forms that a builder or foundation contractor would rent. The thin ties allow them to go between sheets for easy setup and teardown. For us, it wasn't worth the transportation expense to rent forms, so we just used good B.C. fir plywood which will end up in the build somewhere.

Its cold and windy today, so won't be doing any touch up painting on the tractor. When the crew finishes stripping the forms today, we'll run them back to town and head home for a week of appointments. Once I'm back here, I hope to get the big loader frame parts reassembled and get closer to start up.

 

[smart45]

Do you guys know how I can get to the front transmission pump to replace the seal?

 

[alrman]

Welcome to HEF @smart45
May I suggest you start a new thread in the tlb section.
State the make & model of your machine & be more specific as to where the oil is coming from.
Do you have a service manual?
There's a 99% chance you will need to split the tractor if it is a 580ck of 60's 70's vintage.

 

[smart45]

Welcome to HEF @smart45
May I suggest you start a new thread in the tlb section.
State the make & model of your machine & be more specific as to where the oil is coming from.
Do you have a service manual?
There's a 99% chance you will need to split the tractor if it is a 580ck of 60's 70's vintage.

I’ve split the tractor already the leak was coming out of the bottom of the starter was trying to do some research on the problem and people were say it was the front pump seal I’m trying to pull the torque converter out to get to it not really sure how it comes out any suggestions will be much appreciated

 

[Tinkerer]

Welcome to HEF, smart45,
x2 on what alrman posted. Start a new thread with the make and model of your tractor.

Some models of 580's have a wet bellhousing. That means it is normal for the bellhousing to have oil in it.