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580sl. Does this Hyd. Cyl. piston need to be replaced?

Doug580l

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2018
Messages
301
Location
Southern Illinois
Putting anything on the rod to restrict the length of the travel will pound the crap out of the gland.
That in turn will put a lot of stress on the gland and barrel threads.
A better alternative would be welding travel stops on the bucket linkage if that is possible.
IMHO of course.

I can't see any place that I could weld something. It's the dipper, not the bucket. The dipper frame is cast iron too, I believe.

Would putting something like rubber between the collar and gland make any difference?
 

Doug580l

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2018
Messages
301
Location
Southern Illinois
Since we're not done with the possible solutions I'm still thinking that shaving a millimetre off the interior dent is the best long term solution. I wonder if a cylinder ridge reamer would not be enough to shave a little there. Then just sand paper taped to a 2x4 to smooth it out. The way I smoothed mine out, and we're talking about 30 something inches far from the opening, was to tape good quality sandpaper cloth on top of a foam on the end of a 2x4. There was a lot of rubbing and my arms hurt after but in the long run you forget that.

I've gone out to the pole barn 3 or 4 times with the intent of starting to grind down the bump with a dremmel, keep talking myself out of it. But as one of the guys said, worse case if I screw something up is that I end up bringing it to a machine shop.

Right now I'm thinking that I shouldn't get too excited about doing anything until I see if I can get the piston bolt removed. If I can't, then I'll have no choice but to take it somewhere and I can have them remove that and fix the barrel at the same time. I'd probably have them reseal it and put it back together too since it has to be re-torqued at 2500 or so ft. lbs.
 

Doug580l

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2018
Messages
301
Location
Southern Illinois
Good to see that picture of the dent. If it were in my shop id clean those dents on the outside first, then id weld them up . I know thats a reverse on my thoughts above. Then id chuck the cylinder in the lathe ,id bet theres a center hole in the pin boss . Clean up the weld on the outside .then machine the weld out until the bottom of the cylinder can be removed . once the bottom end of the barrel is open ,set up the steady rest and dial in the bore . A careful touch with the boring bar on the dent ,then a polish with the die grinder and flap wheel . If it wont dial in right the die grinder with a stone will remove the dent then clean up with a flap wheel .Its easy to check the dents with an inside mike when the end is open like this . Plug the bottom back in and re weld . All this said you need a creative machinist .
Id avoid stops on the rod that going to pound the gland and you will lose travel on the stick . An inside stop that will work on the piston will be as much work as machining the barrel of the end and you will still lose travel on the stick.

I really wouldn't mind losing about 1.75" of travel on the dipper. I rarely extend it all the way on purpose because it pushes against a couple of the metal hydraulic pipes then. I've bent them to get them out of the way, but they always bend back. I assume some of the hoses are the wrong length. Also, if the extendahoe is over about 90% out and I extend the dipper all the way one of the hose will catch on the pin on the dipper frame. I probably only put about 200-250 hours a year on the machine and over 75% of the time I'm using the loader. That being said, I do know that the right way to do it is to bring it somewhere, I just hate bringing anything anywhere unless I absolutely have to.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,864
Location
WI
No hydraulic shop is going to fix the dents in that cylinder, they'll send it to a machine shop to cut off and weld a new cylinder to the old base, probably want a new piston also.

Something like a cylinder ridge reamer would be good, especially if you can make it float like a curved plane so it only cuts the high spots, then sand and polish.

If the hoses aren't working, fix them before you have steel lines to replace.
 

Doug580l

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2018
Messages
301
Location
Southern Illinois
Had to use a machine to get the piston bolt loose. The 1" air impact didn't do it so I tried a longer pipe, about 12' long with approx. 320 lbs of weight on the end. That didn't do it so I ended up using a skid steer to apply the force. Hope I don't need to do that again. Got the cylinder rebuilt and back on the machine. Seems to work fine. I'm still trying to decide whether or not to put some collars on the end of the rod.
 
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