580C Shuttle slipping? Fwd only

[outlawspeeder]

My 580C is slipping in fwd gears. Reverse is good.

Three days ago I pulled a 18 wheeler out of a ditch. Today I plowed the development I live in and its on a hill. Plowed uphill fine for three hours. The floor switch worked fine to disengage the clutch.

At the end I was just clean up the small pieces in 3rd gear. The all at once it is like the the fwd clutches are gone. I can go fwd in 1st on flat ground but not well and I can't move it up a small hill in 1st. Reverse is fine and how I got it back to the house.

It is like the clutches for the fwd are burnt. Oil is good and doesn't smell burnt.
Looking for thoughts.

Any use this kit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-580C-...114241274174?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

 

[DaveA]

I used the kit. worked great

 

[outlawspeeder]

Great. I just drove it again today to move some more snow.
I putting notes here for anyone else.
It was doing ok kind of... and the more I drove it the less it would move. If I would move it in and out of fwd it would help a little. The final was lifting the front and tiring to push. nogo Tried pulling and it started dragging the blade great.

I got to check funds but plan on ordering.

The next question; can I pull the shuttle and leave the bellhousing and torque converter in the ho?
Trying to reduce the weight to get it out.
If not, what is used to support the engine when the two bolts, bellhousing to frame are removed?

 

[Tinkerer]

I always take the convertor out with the shuttle. Tooo easy to damage the convertor seal when reinstalling if it is left on the flywheel.
The flex-plate really should be inspected whenever the shuttle and convertor comes out.
A forthcoming disaster may be there.

 

[mks]

Have you checked the various linkages?

 

[outlawspeeder]

The linkage is to a electrical solenoid that rotates to port fluid. I can feel it engage and disengage. Then the solenoid gets power it closes off fluid...
I was hoping for something like that but its not it.

 

[outlawspeeder]

I know why my Ho is slipping.. The spring disengages the forward clutch and where the arrows are is part of the piston that engages the clutch. If the piston is leaking... if the piston is twisted it will not move and the reason why it was hit or miss when I was was using forward.

The clutches are in good shape but the forward ones are about half way though their life span. I think this ho had a rebuild shuttle but had a bad spring that let go. This in turn chipped the piston.

 

[Finca SDR]

I have a jd 310d but I think it may have a similar type reverser, it had a broken spring that looked like that and I guess a piece of it ground a ring notch around the housing where an axle or shaft passes through. There was an oil duct hole in that hole in the housing where the shaft passed through and it wouldn't keep pressure, that's why the forward discs wouldn't press against each other hard enough. Reverse was always fine.

I had to take the whole housing to a machine shop and somehow they managed to press a sleeve in there that fixed it.

Joker mechanic couldn't find the problem the first three times he rebuilt it. Real mechanic found it by blowing air through all the different oil ducts and seeing what they actuated.

Good luck

 

[Finca SDR]

Although I guess that broken piston is a smoking gun and easier to fix than my problem

 

[outlawspeeder]

When I pulled it apart, I was expecting to see the clutch gone. I have put in all new clutches and seals. The piston was @ $60. Because I have a full kit I am rebuilding it. The prior owner of 20 years told me it had not been rebuilt well he owned it.


I still have to put the pump /reverse cover on. The bushing needs to be sanded. The shaft is 1.398 and the bushing is 1.362. The inside of the bushing is copper.