555A wont go into F or R. Please HELP!!!!

[ford 555a]

hello,

first post,
1987ish ford 555a tlb, was operating great then went to shift to F on the steering column left hand side and nothing, shift back to reverse, nothing. what drives the hydraulic system providing the fluid to the modular valve? any help is appreciated

 

[jimg984]

check shift linkage, at one end of shift lever is a cover with adjustment under it

 

[ford 555a]

started working again after 5 days of researching and starting it up and was gettting ready to pull the fuel cell.... this is what scares me though.... what was it and when will it happen again

 

[jimg984]

its a hyd. dump valve used to stop movement, when dumping front bucket, controls from red button on top of the lever that works front bucket, also another control on floor board GL

 

[Toxic]

happened to me in my 555e when i first got it..was plowing snow at night with the lightw on qnd it just stopped going into forward and reverse..turned the lights off and it worked again..turns out the previous owner didnt have the alternator hooked up right and the battery was dieing..

 

[Toxic]

does your tach meter work?

 

[Swetz]

The 555A, and other Ford tractors of that ere did have problems with shift linkage wearing and then were hard to get into gear...This was usually seen as a gradual inability to get the tractor into gear. They also had a roll pin that would shear, that would be more likely in your case. That said, as others mentioned, look into the dump on the loader handle and on the floor. The outcome of a stuck switch would be loss of forward and reverse, all at once.

Toxic, Your tractor, being a later model needs power to fire the solenoids for forward and reverse. So, a dead battery would take them out. The older model is all mechanical linkage. Also, the older tractors usually have a cable for the tach, and wouldn't be affected by loss of power either.

 

[Pipeliner825]

Seems silly but, the battery temp sensor in battery box was effecting my F&R. It's in the same circuit as the trans solenoids. Like what others mentioned which seem to be the best answer since u lost everything at once, After you check the dump valve switches which go from loader wobble stick and gear shift through trans module to remove power from trans solenoids, check wiring to bat. Temp sensor that runs into battery box right next to main cables. There's wires that lead from back of bat. box and go between frame and trans to the front. I hooked one of the wires on some brush and it effected my f&r engagement. Took forever to find the prob but was lead that way on another forum. I didn't believe it either. I spliced in a 300 ohm resistor and got rid of the thermistor (temp sensor) completely. Worked great. Now 2 months later it's another prob with F & R I have. Lol. I put a new altenator on a month or so ago and found the old one was hooked up wrong. They had the signal wire hooked as ground. I hooked up to right spot and walla got tach again however, some comments here about alt. have me curious if that's my low voltage at trans solenoid probs but I have no alt. Light and volt. tests show charging fine. Good luck

 

[jimg984]

pipeliner, you not describing a 555a ford operation, 555a tach is cable driven, also the 555a does not have temp. sensor in the battery box, they have a charging relay in battery box, what is a battery Temp. sensor used for?

 

[mitch504]

Newer Ford/New Hollands used a battery temp sensor to control alternator charge rate to not overcharge a cold battery, being in SC, when it messes up on a customer's machine, I just pitch it!

 

[Pipeliner825]

Newer Ford/New Hollands used a battery temp sensor to control alternator charge rate to not overcharge a cold battery, being in SC, when it messes up on a customer's machine, I just pitch it!

what Mitch said. lol. That worked for a while but like most finicky women, a pinch failed to get her excited after a few weeks. lol
sorry, didn't know that difference between the A and C models. I'm starting to regret now I didnt get the older model.

 

[jimg984]

this is the item i'm talking about in my 555A battery box

D7NN10316B- VOLTAGE REGULATOR 12V no temp sensor show in diagram

 

[wrangler2231]

Hello everyone, I have a 1985ish Ford 555a, yesterday I took it on a 9 mile drive down back country roads in north west Georgia, when I arrived at my destination I moved the gear selector to reverse and to my surprise... absolutely nothing... I used the stabilizers to lift the back tires off of the ground to see if maybe the wheels would turn without a load... This didn’t work, I then put it in F (forwards) and the old backhoe took off, it seems I lost reverse, I thought it could be the linkage (as drive has been hard to select for a while but with some force it goes into gear) and I used a pair of channel locks to help the selector rod rotate, still nothing. I checked the trans fluid to make sure I wasn’t low (I have seen this machine not want to pull forward when it was low on fluid but never in reverse) do y’all think I lost reverse? Could it be something else? For a 40 year old machine this 555a has been a great backhoe with minor hickups here and there but never anything like this. Any help would be greatly appreciated seeing that when reverse went out I had just arrived at a job site.

 

[Check Break]

... when I arrived at my destination I moved the gear selector to reverse and ... absolutely nothing... I then put it in F (forwards) and the old backhoe took off, it seems I lost reverse, I thought it could be the linkage (as drive has been hard to select for a while but with some force it goes into gear) and I used a pair of channel locks to help the selector rod rotate, still nothing.

If you have to force it into gear, I don't think your clutch drum is damaged. Check your linkage first. Look for bad bearings and pins. There is a pin inside the bell housing that goes bad. Check it through the inspection plate under the bell housing. It pins the bellcrank on the vertical shaft to the valve. After that, I'd be looking at the blocker valves. More on that later if your linkage checks out.

 

[wrangler2231]

@Check Break thanks for the reply! I will definitely check this out hopefully tomorrow and will report back with what I find. If the pin is bad or worn, do I still have to split the machine to access it?

 

[Check Break]

No on the bellcrank pin, but it helps if Harry Houdini is a distant cousin. As for the blocker valves, you can get to them through the top of the bell housing after you remove some of the stuff in your way.