319D cranks but will not start

[Doug Britten]

319D was idling when the suddenly it sounded different. I shut the machine off. When I went back to it, it struggled to start but it fired up. Now it will crank and act like it wants to start and sputter but will not run. Where should I start troubleshooting? Can someone share a copy of the service/repair manual? Thanks for any help.

 

[Vetech63]

Have you checked the fuel system for anything like suction leaks, flow restrictions, or water in the fuel filters?

 

[Doug Britten]

So far I have only checked the inline fuel filter and then also opened the drain on the bottom of the spin on filter. I was hoping to get a copy of the manual to how to check the fuel system.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Don’t drain the filters, replace them.
Does the inj pump have a shut off solenoid.?? Here lately the water/contaminated fuel has been getting to the solenoid and not allowing it to open completely..

 

[mg2361]

Does the inj pump have a shut off solenoid.??

This machine has electronic unit pumps.

 

[Doug Britten]

I pulled the fuel line from the spin on fuel filter to the engine and cranked the engine. About a teaspoon of fuel dribbled out for each revolution. If I pushed the primer pump on top of the spin on filter a significant amount of fuel was pumped out. I tried pumping the primer while cranking but it did not help. I took off the valve cover off but no sure what to do from here. Thoughts? Can someone share the procedure for testing the fuel system?

 

[mg2361]

Press and hold the menu button until "Service Mode" appears in the screen. Scroll to diagnostics, press select. Then to sensors, press select. Scroll to fuel pressure. Crank engine and watch the fuel pressure. Post results. Also post any codes that are both stored or active while in the service menu.

 

[Doug Britten]

No Active Codes
Stored Codes: 158.01, 105.03, 110.03, 94.18, 1569.31, 636.02.

Here is a video of cranking while watching the fuel pressure

 

[mg2361]

Sounds like it is cranking a little slow. What is the cranking rpm? It should be 250 rpm or higher.

Also, when you are done cranking, how long does the pressure hold above 5 psi?

If you put a clear line on the fuel return line to tank and put a vertical loop in it, is there a lot of air?

Do you detect any fuel in the engine oil?

Stored codes are:
158.01 - System Voltage Below Normal
105.03 - Intake Manifold Air Temperature Signal Out of Range High
110.03 - Engine Coolant Temperature Signal Out of Range High
94.18 - Low Pressure Fuel Signal Moderately Low
1569.31 - Engine Derate
636.02 - Camshaft Signal Invalid (can be caused by low cranking speed)

 

[Doug Britten]

I just put in a new 950CCA battery but it is definitely cranking slower than before.

I will crank and watch the fuel pressure afterwards.

I do not smell and diesel in the engine oil.

I will put the clear line on the return and watch.

Is there something that would cause slower cranking rpm other than the battery? It seems as if there is some load on the engine when cranking that wasn't there before. Thanks for the help!

 

[mg2361]

Is there something that would cause slower cranking rpm other than the battery?

Auxiliaries stuck on?

 

[Doug Britten]

I have the 319d with manual controls so my auxiliary hydraulics is a thumb control on my right joystick. I will check to see if it is stuck but I have not used it recently. Is there some other way it could be turned on?

 

[mg2361]

319D was idling when the suddenly it sounded different.

Sounded different how? Misfire, Fuel knock, Sputter?

I pulled the fuel line from the spin on fuel filter to the engine and cranked the engine. About a teaspoon of fuel dribbled out for each revolution.

The fact that you built up pressure while cranking tells me you have plenty of fuel being delivered.

If you go into the service menu, diagnostics, EMU outputs, then look at aux extend/retract. Should read 0 until activated. I have yet to see auxiliaries stuck on machines with the roller switch.

"D" series hard start complaints are difficult at best. The reasons have been all over the map, from simple (type of oil, filters, fuel return check valves, cranking speed, etc), to more complicated (pumps/injectors, cam gear slip, bent pushrods). Unfortunately, in my opinion, you will be heading towards pumps. Have to eliminate all the simple stuff first.

Do you have the cold start option? How about a serial number?

 

[Doug Britten]

Serial #: 1T0319DAHB0195772

The change in the sound was more of a bogging down of the engine rather than a change in the engine itself. I now think the no start issue due to low cranking RPMs because of a pump issue. Is there some type of bypass that is in place when the parking brake is on? When I was able to restart the machine it seemed to work fine. I do not have the cold start option. I also noticed a coolant leak around the plug for the heater which I hope is just the o-ring.

I also think it was able to restart because it was hot and now that it is cold not enough RPMs. Thanks for the input.

 

[Doug Britten]

Update:

I changed the inline fuel filter and water separator/filter. I checked and cleaned all the electrical connections. I also replaced the starter. No change.

The engine is definitely cranking slow. Fuel pressure builds to 20 PSI after long cranking and engine sporadically sputters like it is trying to start with some puffs of white smoke.

No codes.

What do I look at next. Any help is appreciated.

 

[mg2361]

Fuel pressure builds to 20 PSI after long cranking

If it is taking a long time to reach 20 psi, then I would try the return line check valve to see if that helps.