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2004 johndeere 310 backhoe cranks but wont start

wyowayne

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
17
Location
wyoming
Hello,
I have a 310 that will crank fast but won't start and run. The day before it was hard to start but ran good al day. Today she will spin but not run. We have bled fuel system, changed filter. Changed pick up pump. Now we have been told that it is fuel solenoid in pump. Applying 12 volts to solenoid doesn't make it click. What else could this be.
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,535
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Use a test lite or volt meter to MAKE SURE your getting 12v TO the soleniod..if not, check key switch and fuses..
Remove the fuel return line connector on top of the pump top cover..NOT JUST THE LINE BUT THE ENTIRE CONNECTOR. [you should see a small glass ball in the end of it]
The solenoid "should" click with 12v applied..you may need to remove the top cover..
Once you get it "clicking".. try to start the engine without the return line connector...
Let us know..
 

wyowayne

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
17
Location
wyoming
Use a test lite or volt meter to MAKE SURE your getting 12v TO the soleniod..if not, check key switch and fuses..
Remove the fuel return line connector on top of the pump top cover..NOT JUST THE LINE BUT THE ENTIRE CONNECTOR. [you should see a small glass ball in the end of it]
The solenoid "should" click with 12v applied..you may need to remove the top cover..
Once you get it "clicking".. try to start the engine without the return line connector...
Let us know..

Thanks I will do this later today. Really appreciate the help. When should I get fuel and when should I not get fuel (around glass ball) or tubing.
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,535
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
1st the connector with the glass ball should be removed..entirely..you should only have a hole in the top cover..
Your probably not going to get fuel to flow from the top cover unless you get the solenoid to work..if you cant get fuel in, you cant get fuel out..the solenoid prevents fuel from entering, actually it moves the metering valve to a "no-fuel" position..
 

wyowayne

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
17
Location
wyoming
1st the connector with the glass ball should be removed..entirely..you should only have a hole in the top cover..
Your probably not going to get fuel to flow from the top cover unless you get the solenoid to work..if you cant get fuel in, you cant get fuel out..the solenoid prevents fuel from entering, actually it moves the metering valve to a "no-fuel" position..

Ok, so I can crank engine. I get fuel to the injectors. This is how I bled the system. Does this mean I am on the wrong track maybe.?
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,535
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
I assume you had the top cover off to replace the solenoid..
So your familiar with removing the 3 top cover screws..The engine SHOULD START with the top cover removed IF the metering valve is free..and you have good compression..and the engine is spinning over fast enough..What color smoke do you get from the exhaust while cranking?
IF THE ENGINE FIRES WHILE THE TOP COVER IS OFF..YOU HAVE TO REACH IN AND PULL THE LINKAGE TO SHUT OFF, TO GET IT TO SHUT DOWN..TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE PUMP
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,535
Location
Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
YOU CAN DO IT ALONE..Once it fires.. push the throttle to idle..its going to be "messy" cuz the fuel is going to "spew".. YOU ARE TRYING TO START IT IN FULL FUEL, RIGHT?? WIDE OPEN THROTTLE..
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,535
Location
Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
OK..The DB4 is prone to "cam ball" failure..BUT lets not jump the gun yet..When you had the TC off..did you see ANY SIGNS of water or rust??
Was the metering valve free..its the valve that sits in the pump that the govenor arm hooks to..with the little [diameter] spring on the right hand side..of the BIG spring in the center of the pump.
IT SHOULD move back and forth with your finger.
 

wyowayne

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
17
Location
wyoming
Moves nice. Should I try to start it now. Without top cover. I dont see rust. Or anything looks clean.
 

wyowayne

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
17
Location
wyoming
OK..The DB4 is prone to "cam ball" failure..BUT lets not jump the gun yet..When you had the TC off..did you see ANY SIGNS of water or rust??
Was the metering valve free..its the valve that sits in the pump that the govenor arm hooks to..with the little [diameter] spring on the right hand side..of the BIG spring in the center of the pump.
IT SHOULD move back and forth with your finger.

Should I still try to start without top cover.
 
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