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2004 International 7300

mekanik

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Aug 20, 2015
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942
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Canada's Northwest
Your right With a dual air system if there was a failure and you lost pressure in one system the double check valve would allow the side that worked to apply the trailer electric brake controller. I can't understand why they would want a check valve with a single system.
 

materthegreater

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Jul 25, 2012
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VT
Ok thanks for your input, I'll just go without the check valve. I can always apply the trailer brakes manually.

Now I just need to get the trailer brakes adjusted so they don't lock up when it's empty...
 

materthegreater

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PXL_20230221_160734548.jpg

Installed the tailgate chamber this morning. What's the best place for an air source? There are spare ports on the air tanks, but something I was reading mentioned that some trucks have an air distribution box under the dash. I didn't see anything that looked like that on this truck, but maybe it has one somewhere else?
 

Jonas302

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Jan 4, 2015
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1,197
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mn
Most that I have worked on use a pressure protection valve at the tank then run the lines to your switch
The pressure protection valve serves to protect your air supply in case the accessory circuit fails it will shut off flow at a preset low pressure point
 

materthegreater

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Jul 25, 2012
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642
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VT
Any ideas where I might get more switch inserts for this switch panel? It has a Pollak part number on the back: 32289. But that seems to be for the whole panel. I just need the individual switches.

PXL_20220128_212433849.MP.jpg
 

mekanik

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Aug 20, 2015
Messages
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Canada's Northwest
The switches are already installed in the switch pack, you just need the plastic rocker and the insert that tells what the switch is for. However to make the switch work you need to have dealer involved because the switch pack is multiplexed to the body controller. International calls it custom logic that needs to written and programmed into the body controller so the switch will work for the application you need. You may also need to install a RPM or "remote power module" to get the output connector if there is not a spare one. It would be simpler and way less expensive to just put a good old toggle switch in the dash somewhere.
 

materthegreater

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Jul 25, 2012
Messages
642
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VT
The switches are already installed in the switch pack, you just need the plastic rocker and the insert that tells what the switch is for. However to make the switch work you need to have dealer involved because the switch pack is multiplexed to the body controller. International calls it custom logic that needs to written and programmed into the body controller so the switch will work for the application you need. You may also need to install a RPM or "remote power module" to get the output connector if there is not a spare one. It would be simpler and way less expensive to just put a good old toggle switch in the dash somewhere.

Yes, there are 6 holes in this panel, the first two obviously have switches in them, the middle two are like you say with the switches already installed on the circuit board, but the last two are empty so I could put a basic rocker switch in there. I was just hoping I could find some that matched the existing switches.

Sounds like international went out of their way to make it overly complicated...
 

materthegreater

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Keith Merrell

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Mar 29, 2020
Messages
237
Location
Cottonwood, AZ
Keith,
On your truck(s), do you have additional springs that hold the latch closed, or is the internal chamber spring strong enough on it's own? It seems pretty strong to me, but I'm not sure what it'll do with a full load.

I only use the internal spring. I set mine up with a tensioner as well, so that when it is in the closed position, it is pulling with some strength on the dogs to hold it closed nice and tight. I had this setup on 2 trucks. A bobtail, similar to yours with a 6 yard bed, and a 10 wheeler. Never had any problems even when using it as an onsite truck and way overloading it. Also, it works great for tailgating, even with all the weight of the material pushing against the gate with the bed up, it doesn't move.
 

materthegreater

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Jul 25, 2012
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642
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VT
I'm thinking about swapping to a manual transmission, but not sure how much torque the transfer case can handle since a manual transmission would likely have deeper reduction than the Allison (thinking about an 8LL possibly). This is the transfer case on this truck:

PXL_20230313_202549683.jpg

I did some quick searching but couldn't find any info on this specific model. Maybe my next step should be calling Meritor.
 

Jonas302

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Jan 4, 2015
Messages
1,197
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mn
I'm thinking about swapping to a manual transmission, but not sure how much torque the transfer case can handle since a manual transmission would likely have deeper reduction than the Allison (thinking about an 8LL possibly). This is the transfer case on this truck:

View attachment 282611

I did some quick searching but couldn't find any info on this specific model. Maybe my next step should be calling Meritor.
Why ? you have low for deep reduction
 

materthegreater

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Jul 25, 2012
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642
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VT
Why ? you have low lock for deep reduction
The gears are too far apart. It'll be hitting the rev limit in one gear, and then upshift and the revs drop below the turbo and it can't keep up. I figured an 8 or 10 speed would give me closer ratios. Not set on the 8LL
 

mekanik

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Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
942
Location
Canada's Northwest
There should be a aluminium tag somewhere on the transfer case that will identify it. With that info you should be able to find all the info on Meritor's website.
 

cfherrman

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Jun 3, 2022
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1,662
Location
Hays, Kansas
Hmm, automatics have torque multiplication from stalling the torque converter.

I really don't think it would be fun to do a trans swap like that
 
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materthegreater

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Jul 25, 2012
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642
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VT
So the automatic is essentially capable of a deeper reduction than it's lowest ratio when starting from a stop?

It probably wouldn't be a fun project. I'm just trying to determine if it's even feasible at the moment.
 

Willie B

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Jan 2, 2016
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4,038
Location
Mount Tabor VT
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Electrician
So the automatic is essentially capable of a deeper reduction than it's lowest ratio when starting from a stop?

It probably wouldn't be a fun project. I'm just trying to determine if it's even feasible at the moment.
My old C65 Chevy had two speed rear (Eaton), Can't remember low gear ratio, but very low, 8:1? & 5 speed (Eaton) 427 gas tall block GM motor.
New Top Kick, very similar size. Towing a backhoe up the paved hill on Danby Mountain Road parts are 15% grade.
Old truck would run out of gas in the carburetor if the tank wasn't full, until I found a cracked O ring on a fuel filter cannister. When it WAS running right it'd be a high stress situation. Low/low full throttle, I wasn't sure if it was going to make it. More than once I'd unload at the bottom of the hill, & drive the backhoe to the top. Being near the top is a frightening situation when the truck won't pull it!
"New" truck is the same size, 500 LB more GVWR, empty truck 300 LBS heavier. Turbo diesel Cat 3208 10.4 liter is rated same HP as the 427 in the old truck. Axle is 4.99 approx. Allison crawls up slowly, but without effort. Only concern is traction, as The Allison goes to low gear & the torque converter then makes up the difference. My engine has most torque under 2000 RPM, so I keep engine at 1800-2000 & it does the rest.

I agree, some situations a manual transmission is better, & I love going through the gears, it's fun! In truth Allison is a great transmission & nothing climbs like an Allison. Allison demonstrates their ability to start halfway up a steep hill. Quite remarkable how it can feed just over zero speed to the wheels to get started without the sudden surge of power that'll break traction.
 
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