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2001 mack e7 427 low boost

Discussion in 'Other Earthmoving Equipment' started by Johnpenwell, Feb 5, 2020.

  1. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    I've got a problem here with a 2001 mack dump truck that has low boost and will not pull the hills or run at speed while loaded. Here is the deal with this truck the original motor was a 2001 e7 427. It spun a main bearing so the company owner decided to go with a salvage yard engine that engine is a 2003 e7 427 we put all the exterior components from the ild engine on this one ran the overhead and fired it up. The engine runs well at idle sounds good etc holds 70 psi o oil pressure and 55 to 60 after warm. We have checked all the cooler boots and and all looked good. My question is should the injectors from the old motor be put in this one and the unit pumps? The truck is only making about 14 pounds of boost with the pedal on the floor unloaded holds about 70 mph on flat ground and falls on its face on a hill. Also this engine is running a much colder temp. Like 140 degrees on the gauge and with a temp gun. The old engine had much more power. I appreciate any help I can get.
     
  2. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    Also the active codes are boost solenoid low voltage. Fan solenoid voltage low
     
  3. walkerv

    walkerv Senior Member

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    Does it have the old engines ecm on it or did it come with its computer frpm salvage yard ? Fan solenoid voltage low , it is either unplugged or shorted out. Need to get the engine up to operating temps i would throw a thermostat or stats at it depending on its setup, and be sure to replace the seals they ride in. If it is running the old engines computer the unit pumps trim codes will all be wrong vs what is in the donor engine ,but only under some weird circumstances have i ever seen it cause a problem with running correctly. Boost solenoid voltage low i will have to read on . Low boost did you check the hoses and tube that runs behind the engine block from the intake to supply the air compressor with air ? That is a potential 3/4 inch hole blowing boosted intake air to atmosphere.
     
  4. walkerv

    walkerv Senior Member

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    Boost solenoid has nothing to do with the engines boost pressure , it has something to do with voltage drops while cranking i believe to ensure computers all start i believe i will read on this tommorrow when im back by my mack books .
     
  5. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    It has the old engine ecm in it. I have checked the boots and the hose from compressor to manifold they seem ok clamps are all tight and no leaks that I can tell. I have not pressure checked the charge air cooler but the old engine ran fine. I am using jpro to diagnose with and I cannot see fuel pressure but I am running the salvage yard engine fuel pump not sure if that could be the cause. The truck does not abnormally smoke. Smokes a little black but not too much. So the unit pumps and injectors usually would not cause this issue?
     
  6. walkerv

    walkerv Senior Member

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    If it was a fine running engine when salvaged i doubt it, you have to use a guage to check fuel pressure , there are 2 plugs at the back of the block in line with the eup's you can check fuel pressure at either one takes a 1/4 inch drive ratchet to get them out, lets find out what idle and wide open pressure is . And while its hooked up maybe take it for a drive that makes it run low on power while monitering the fuel pressure .
     
  7. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    Ok will do
     
  8. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    Ok guys the fuel pressure is within spec. I have changed the cold air side charge air cooler. Changed the boost sensor also no change. Sitting still at idle boost is at zero on jpro and the gauge. Active codes are engine speed sensor low voltage low or erratic. Fan solenoid voltage low and boost sensor solenoid low. I'm at a loss checked all piping for leaks and can't find any. Really don't know where else to look. The engine runs good on flat ground but will not pull a hill like the other engine would loaded or empty
     
  9. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    The previous post I meant to say I changed the cold air side boots on the charge air cooler. The history on the engine from the wrecking yard had 400,000 miles on the clock a visual inspection of the bottom end looked good did not see any type of wear or scars in the cylinders. The cam had no visible wear either. On the engine that spun a main you could see major wear on the cam with some pitting.that engine had 760k on it. The wrecking yard engine looked much better. There is no blow by to speak of on this engine and no abnormal smoke just slightly black. We used everything from the old motor turbo intake etc. I even changed the injectors in the head with the old ones with no change. I have not changed the unit pumps but did short them and they are all contributing. Anything else I should try?
     
  10. walkerv

    walkerv Senior Member

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    Engine speed sensor is usually the sensor in the flywheel housing, not sure of your jpro says if it shows pid sid fmi codes or will show what the mack blink code , on some scanners it is hard to figure out of it is the one reading the cam or the flywheel. It is the same sensor so you could rob the cam sensor off old engine just remove the shim first and try putting it in flywheel housing to see if that code goes away , of it doesnt then try swapping the cam sensor . What were the psi reading on fuel. Also of you can view data stream ensure throttle pedal is reading 100 percent at wot if it reads 98 or even 99 percent it will cuase low power complaints . If the valve train arrangment is identical to your old engine shoot me the truck model from the door jam example ch 613 and last 6 of vin , i need to see what exactly engine arrangment you have .by valve train arrangment i mean does everything to do with the rocker arms and shafts identical between the 2 engines.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2020
  11. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    I know the speed sensor code is the one in the flywheel it was like that with the old engine also I always seen that connector just smashed and full of dirt when I walked up to the truck. As far as the valve train the new engine had Jake's the old one did not. We removed them. The new engine also had springs on the push tubes on the exhaust valves we used those and set overhead at 16 intake a tight 25 for exhaust trying to get as close to .024 as we could. Both valve covers from each engine had the same valve lash settings. I will post the door info if u need it but as far as the "new engine" I dont have that info
     
  12. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    I'm still fighting this thing. Is there anything else that I could check I will post the truck information if need be
     
  13. walkerv

    walkerv Senior Member

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    I cannoy help of you are not specific with the info im asking for ,i have been working on these engines for 20 years now its hard to diagnose without being at the truck following is going to be a specific list of info i need to even think about helping . If you give me proper info which is gonna be actual numbers or actual psi i will help if not i wont , not being a dick or anything it just that i take my own free time like most everyone else on here to help when we can help.
    Active fualt for speed sensor you need to fix that first then.
    1. Fuel psi at idle and wide open throttle (normal doesnt cut it) if possible with an assistant driving truck watch fuel pressure at load especially in higher gears. My guages have about a 10 psi flutter in them when doing this if yours does also just average it. Should see no real drop under acceleration if it does please report what psi it dropped to also.
    2. Does the odometer work adding miles as you drive if not you have a problem there as factory programing is to cut power 50 percent if it isnt seeing proper vehicle speed.
    3.does your tool your using show data stream if so find throttle position data ensure that everytime you put accell pedal to the floor it says 100 percent ( i have had low power complaints from a pedal that would only read 99 percent changed pedal assy truck was good as new)
    4.double triple check all hoses and piping for boost air have someone else look over it also sometimes a second set of eyes will see something you didnt.
    5. Ensure that turbo you took off a blown up engine is good , spins freely no excessive play radially or end play usually a turbo is not reused off a bad engine .
    6. While your playing with your j pro scanner or whatever it is take a picture of each fualt or the fualt code table with your phone and post please. I have mack books and actuall mack software not all scanners have good descrptions attached to the fualt.
    7. Take picture of donor engine valve cover stickers so i can see exactly what model engine this is also becuase i am curious one of both sides of engine also.
    8. When you adjusted those exhuast valves with the spring loaded push tubes . Proper procedure is to put feeler gauge under rocker use a special tool to tighten adjuster to 6 inch pounds then hold adjuster and tighten jam nut. I do this without the torque tool personnaly as long as the spring gets compressed so push tube is solid i then put my palm on back of rocker to keep spring compressed and see how my feeler guage feels , i have never had a problem doing it this way.
    9 doesnt matter what way you you go thru this list this is what i would do to get started with your problem , starting with ensuring over head is adjusted correctly and that turbo is 100 percent. You are using the timing marks on the flywheel for adjusting the valves one cylinder at a time ? Just asking as i am unsure how familier you are with mack engines if your a full on mechanic or a driver that is also the mechanic.
     
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  14. walkerv

    walkerv Senior Member

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    Found your boost solenoid fualt also here it is . See what i mean about bad description on non oem software or tools . This is likely your problem. Also reading back on your original post do not short the eup pumps , you can check for misfire or contribution like any other old diesel by cracking fuel lines very carefully.zoom in and that is the whole procedure for that fualt. What i typically find is eup wires rubbing the block were the pop out of the loom or where it comes around the back left corner of block. Have also seen damage from wiring rubbing engine oil coooler by the ecm. 20200214_120551.jpg 20200214_120602.jpg
     
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  15. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    I don't think you are being a dick at all. Believe me I understand about a man's free time and I am grateful for you taking the extra time to try and help me. I am not a driver of this truck I am the mechanic that started during the middle of this. I'm no mack mech for sure. I will get this the information you need when I get back to the truck but I think from research this new engine is a ccrs the old one was not. Could that be the issue? If so the old engine is still near by could I take the heads have them checked and put them on this block? Or would I need to change the cam also? I'm sorry for the delay in response also I'm trying to keep other customers happy at the same time.
     
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  16. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    I just seen your last message I will look into your picture u sent
     
  17. walkerv

    walkerv Senior Member

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    Ccrs?do you mean CEGR vs IEGR engine . I have one cegr 460 in the fleet and a normal iegr 460 in the fleet i will look and see if they run the same cams . Heads should be the same .
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020 at 7:55 PM
  18. Johnpenwell

    Johnpenwell Active Member

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    Ok on the old engine the heads had a jumper fuel line between the two heads and a fitting in the front head just in front of the valve cover With a rubber 1/4" line running back to the fuel return fitting on the side of the block. This engine does not have that
     
  19. walkerv

    walkerv Senior Member

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    I have trucks that are like that i will look at the differences tommorrow. You may want to put that engines nozzles back into it unless they had the same part number on them the heads with jumpers and rubber hose return im pretty sure are a different design nozzle . Cams are different between a cegr engine and a iegr engine gonna put that on the back burner of thinking rite now . Did the engine come with its engine harness or did you have to use the one on your blown engine .
     
  20. walkerv

    walkerv Senior Member

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    1. Put that engines fuel injectors back into it , use that time to verify valve adjustment if you want the specific procedure message me and i will send it to you. I have air filter housing off and outta the way when i do that work personnaly so you will also be able to make sure turbo feels good and is free also. That process will take a couple things off the list.
    Is this a hurry up get it running rite job or is it sitting in shop tinkering with it when you got nuthen else to do ?