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05 volvo l60e transmission problem

williambogner

Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
26
Location
tolland ct
hey guys. couldn't pass up this deal. I got a 05 Volvo l60e. 4 speed power shift. reverse in all 4 gears is great. full power. I have nothing in all 4 forward gears. on level ground if you engage in forward it will creep a tiny tiny bit if you whack the throttle but barely. it's engaging on the computer. all the solenoids on the side of the transmission are working properly. checked voltage and resistance on them. I have yet to check lube or main pressure. that's going to be in the next few days. can anyone point me in right direction or tell me what I'm in for possibly. I'm stuck between melted clutch pack or bad gear selector valve. the machine only has 2500 hours. confirmed by the dealer.....
 

Ben Witter

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
263
Location
On the outside
Have you checked the trans oil and filter? is the oil burnt? Check the main pressure in neutral and all gears forward and reverse. Do this with the oil and trans at operating temp. Also check the converter and lube pressure. You can measure this at both idle and at 12-1600 rpms.
It is possible that the gear selector or circuits could be faulty and not sending current to the neutral/drive coil but it should not creep in forward if that is the case. More than likely it is a bad forward clutch pack or seals inside the transmission
 

williambogner

Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
26
Location
tolland ct
Have you checked the trans oil and filter? is the oil burnt? Check the main pressure in neutral and all gears forward and reverse. Do this with the oil and trans at operating temp. Also check the converter and lube pressure. You can measure this at both idle and at 12-1600 rpms.
It is possible that the gear selector or circuits could be faulty and not sending current to the neutral/drive coil but it should not creep in forward if that is the case. More than likely it is a bad forward clutch pack or seals inside the transmission
the oil in the trans doesn't smell the greatest but I have yet to pull the filter or pan to check for debris. yes i will check both conv and lube pressure when I check main. I just can't imagine that converter pressure is bad because reverse is fine, do you know what'd involved with clutch pack? is it pretty easy and straight to replace? like I said I think electronics are ok. both voltage to the coils and an ohms reading are equal on all solenoids. I'm leaning towards clutch failure or gear selector failure of some sort. just want to make sure I'm not opening a can of worms...thanks
 

Mark250

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
1,243
Location
victoria,Australia
Occupation
heavy equipment technician
Have you checked the trans oil and filter? is the oil burnt? Check the main pressure in neutral and all gears forward and reverse. Do this with the oil and trans at operating temp. Also check the converter and lube pressure. You can measure this at both idle and at 12-1600 rpms.
It is possible that the gear selector or circuits could be faulty and not sending current to the neutral/drive coil but it should not creep in forward if that is the case. More than likely it is a bad forward clutch pack or seals inside the transmission
Hi i agree with Ben in regards to checking oil and filters etc. Depending on what you find would determine if you have to remove the transmission for repair.
If the condition of the oil and filters is ok i would do a few simple checks
1/Assuming that the main system pressure is OK check the forward clutch pack pressure, should be approximately 189-241 psi at high idle. If this is ok it would suggest that the forward clutch is not engaging due to wear. low pressure at the forward clutch would indicate worn or damaged piston seals or worn or damaged rotating shaft ring seals
2/if there is no forward clutch pressure, check that there is power to the neural /drive clutch solenoid #1,NOpower to solenoid #2 in the forward direction, if there is you need to find out why.
3/If there is power to S1 and no power to S2 it is possible that the forward/reverse slider valve has jammed in its bore as shown in the diaghram below.
if you find that the valve is damaged it can be interchanged with one of the other positions as they are all the same
Mark
s2 solenoid valve.jpgvalve block.jpg
 

williambogner

Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
26
Location
tolland ct
If I understand this properly only if I put the machine in 1st forward, only s1 s3 s4 should be hot. I'm going to check the pressures tomorrow but just want to get a better u dersranding which solenoids should be powered in forward.
 

Mark250

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
1,243
Location
victoria,Australia
Occupation
heavy equipment technician
If I understand this properly only if I put the machine in 1st forward, only s1 s3 s4 should be hot. I'm going to check the pressures tomorrow but just want to get a better u dersranding which solenoids should be powered in forward.
That's correct
S1 is neutral /drive. this solenoid disabled give you neutral
S3 is high/low range
S4 is 1st /2nd

Mark
 

williambogner

Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
26
Location
tolland ct
That's correct
S1 is neutral /drive. this solenoid disabled give you neutral
S3 is high/low range
S4 is 1st /2nd

Mark

Ok, got an update today. Pulled filter and dropped oil and pan. Smells a little burnt, dark color, and metallic. I have seen much worse but I consider it 7.5 out of 10 for bad. There are quite a few aluminum shavings in pan and in filter. Nothing large but pretty large quantity of them. I tested all three ports on the driver side of transmission. The tests were with cold transmission. Keep in mind this machine does great in all 4 reverse gears. Main pressure 220 psi in neutral,reverse,and forward. Torque converter pressure 100 psi forward and reverse with throttle, and 100 psi in neutral no throttle. Lube oil pressure was zero in forward, reverse, and neutral. Revving up engine made no difference either. Not sure the next steps.
 

zlssefi

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2007
Messages
334
Location
Connecticut
im guessing burned up the forward clutch pack due to over heating. im not too familiar with volvo transmissions but i know on a twin disc/allison the lube and charge pressure is done with the same pump.
 

Mark250

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
1,243
Location
victoria,Australia
Occupation
heavy equipment technician
Ok, got an update today. Pulled filter and dropped oil and pan. Smells a little burnt, dark color, and metallic. I have seen much worse but I consider it 7.5 out of 10 for bad. There are quite a few aluminum shavings in pan and in filter. Nothing large but pretty large quantity of them. I tested all three ports on the driver side of transmission. The tests were with cold transmission. Keep in mind this machine does great in all 4 reverse gears. Main pressure 220 psi in neutral,reverse,and forward. Torque converter pressure 100 psi forward and reverse with throttle, and 100 psi in neutral no throttle. Lube oil pressure was zero in forward, reverse, and neutral. Revving up engine made no difference either. Not sure the next steps.
first off you need to find the cause of the contamination. sounds to me like the transmission needs to be removed and inspected before more series damage has been done.
Have you checked the forward clutch pressure yet?
the causes of low lube pressure can be any or all of the following
worn transmission pump
convertor problems
lube relief valve stuck open
transmission internal leakage either at rotating shaft seals or clutch's

Untitled.jpg
Mark
 

Mark250

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
1,243
Location
victoria,Australia
Occupation
heavy equipment technician
i dont know how to check the forward clutch pressure....my manuals show me nothing in that area.
I believe it is past the point of testing if you have contamination as stated earlier
the test points for the clutch's are on the gear selector valve underneath the valve block
Mark
 

williambogner

Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
26
Location
tolland ct
I believe it is past the point of testing if you have contamination as stated earlier
the test points for the clutch's are on the gear selector valve underneath the valve block
Mark

I guess I'll test it and see what outcomes are. The book says you need to pull cab and pull tranny out. I think I can drop trans and just lift up the rear of machine to get it out. Is it a can of worms to tear down tranny or pretty straight forward??
 

Mark250

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
1,243
Location
victoria,Australia
Occupation
heavy equipment technician
its a countershaft type transmission and pretty straight forward
a few things to be careful with
end float on shafts is critical
piston seal rings are easy to twist or pinch if not careful
extra careful when assembly shaft seals
use plenty of Vaseline ,Aka snow-white ,Aka petroleum jelly ,Aka Happy Fat
Do NOT use grease under any circumstances as it does not dissolve in the transmission oil and the additives can attack some components
Mark
 

Bkish07

Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Michigan
If there is any kind of metal in your filter consider your transmission bad. It's definitely going to need a rebuild.
 

sfrs4

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2013
Messages
683
Location
Great Britian
Occupation
parts admin
The torque convertor should be putting out between 0-7bar pressure depending on operation, max pressure is 8 bar, if you are getting no pressure at operating speeds the torque could be broken inside
 

02SILVER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
70
Location
Florida
We may be past this point already but the gear selector shifters are known wear items in c's, d's, and e's. I have had them fail in many ways including loss of one direction with a service life of about 3 years of service doing utility work. I keep new ones on deck for this reason. Failure in the forward direction could be sending undervoltage causing solenoid valve slight leak by? I have never had hard parts break in my trannies with some in excess of 15k hours. (Knock on wood)
 
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