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Takeuchi tl130 electircal loss

Nitrousz

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
7
Location
WV
Is there any other fuses on these machines other than the small fuse panel at your feet? I've lost all power while repairing a faulty ground to the ignition switch. Battery checks good but fuse panel is not getting power from the battery. Cant find a main inline fuse or breaker anywhere. Thanks
 

tool_king

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2010
Messages
2,145
Location
new jersey
Occupation
road mechanic owner
Yes there are main fuse back by the battery .They will have plastic covers over them. If you need a parts and service manual post or pm your email address .
 

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Nitrousz

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
7
Location
WV
I'm still having a loss of power to the fuel still shut off solenoid. When the key is turned on approximately 1 to 2 seconds power is lost at the fuel shut off solenoid. I have swapped relays and determined that they are not at fault. Any suggestions ??
 

Nitrousz

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
7
Location
WV
At first we thought we had a bad ground The machine ran fine for about a day and now we're back to square one as it will not start again
 

tool_king

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2010
Messages
2,145
Location
new jersey
Occupation
road mechanic owner
At first we thought we had a bad ground The machine ran fine for about a day and now we're back to square one as it will not start again
You might have a wire that is breaking down under load .What is your email address .I can send you over a schematic on it .
 

Nitrousz

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
7
Location
WV
I checked voltage at the fuel shut off solenoid. On the yellow wire I only get around 2 volts when the key is turned on then it cuts to nothing
 

Nitrousz

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
7
Location
WV
Now I'm getting 12 bolts from all the way from the relay to the fuel shut off solenoid until it kicks off. The smaller yellow wire going into the same wiring relay shows 2-3 volts until it kicks off then it goes back to 12 volts
 

miked_9606

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Pa
Any chance I can get tl130 service manual michael.j.diana@gmail.com had common bat flash issue ordered alt, pulled in shop. Replaced alt. Took for test same issue pulled it back in. Turned off and without doing anything have no crank. Just clicks. Replaced bat and starter.
 

miked_9606

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Pa
Nitrousz
I emailed the service manual look at the pages I said to look at .


Any chance I can get tl130 service manual michael.j.diana@gmail.com had common bat flash issue ordered alt, pulled in shop. Replaced alt. Took for test same issue pulled it back in. Turned off and without doing anything have no crank. Just clicks. Replaced bat and starter.
 

Simon C

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2015
Messages
663
Location
Rocky Mountain House , AB., Canada
Occupation
Heavy Equipment Mechanic
As " tool king" said, get a good multimeter and start with checking how far does the battery drop when turning switch to start. Test positive cable to starter for voltage drop. Test negative cable from battery to engine ground for voltage drop, and frame ground from frame to battery negative. Test from Battery positve to key switch positive for Voltage drop, along with from Battery Positive to Fuse panel for voltage drop. Almost forgot to mention to test from Key Switch "S" terminal to "S" terminal of starter for voltage drop. Also check from Alternator positive to Battery Positive for Voltage Drop. Lastly check from Battery Positive to Fuel solenoid pull and hold connections for voltage drop. If you know how to do these tests properly, you will probably find something defective. Remember that to find voltage drop ( loss of potential) you need to have power trying to go through a cable or switch. Cranking an engine or an attempted start will work for testing battery and ground cables.
Remember that if a battery with a meter's test leads touching the positive and negative posts does not drop in voltage from lets say 12.6 volts to (9.6 to 11 volts) with an attempted start, that means the battery is sufficiently strong and you have a connection problem, or starter problem. If the starter solenoid goes clunk with your hand on it while holding the Key in the start position, then you know you have a defective solenoid or starter itself. You will need a helper or recording multimeter to do these tests.
Once you fix a connection so that full juice can go to starter, then sometimes you will find the battery is too weak for the new load you created with the new connection.
Any good Heavy equipment mechanic or automotive mechanic can test all these things mentioned and find the problem.
Fluke Meters has a good information supply for acceptable numbers on your meter for many of these tests. You tube videos also.
Way better to find real cause than throw parts at it and still no start or run.
Simon C
 
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