Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
That is good info, things like that are things that a shade tree mechanic like me could easily overlook. Thanks
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1985 Case 1155D engine removal
- Thread starter Bobcat Crazy
- Start date
That is good info, things like that are things that a shade tree mechanic like me could easily overlook. Thanks
Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
Well I did it! I jumped again! I thought I would learn better than this one day but it seems I just cannot help myself! 
I am the proud owner of a Case 1155D with a terrible knock in it.
As soon as I can get it delivered to my place I suppose the best place to start would be to pull the oil pan. I wish I could start turning bolts on it tonight but it is 20 miles from my place. I have the window of this weekend to get it here but not sure if I can line up everything that fast.
If not it will probably be the week after next before I can get back to it. I have to work straight through next week the weekend and the holiday, so I am hoping to get it moved over the weekend.
The hours showing are 9515 is this a bad number for this machine?
B-Crazy
I am the proud owner of a Case 1155D with a terrible knock in it. As soon as I can get it delivered to my place I suppose the best place to start would be to pull the oil pan. I wish I could start turning bolts on it tonight but it is 20 miles from my place. I have the window of this weekend to get it here but not sure if I can line up everything that fast.
If not it will probably be the week after next before I can get back to it. I have to work straight through next week the weekend and the holiday, so I am hoping to get it moved over the weekend.
The hours showing are 9515 is this a bad number for this machine?
B-Crazy
We did a complete engine in our Case W20C in 2005. 504BD engine, no turbo, 108hp. Someone had been in it before, and left out some spacers that locate the crank fore/aft in the block. The block was scored, crank ruined, and connecting rods ruin. It ran perfect and only had a small tick at first. One liner pinholed and that's why we tore it down.
Case priced us the set of 6 rods for $4300, and a new crank at $4600. We opted to buy a complete reman engine, dynoed, with warranty for $11,250 in the northern US. One of the best decisions I ever made. Loader still running perfect today, loading topsoil and working strong.
Case priced us the set of 6 rods for $4300, and a new crank at $4600. We opted to buy a complete reman engine, dynoed, with warranty for $11,250 in the northern US. One of the best decisions I ever made. Loader still running perfect today, loading topsoil and working strong.
Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
I'm sure that is a good deal if you are using it to make money with. I will just be playing around the family land with mine so I would have a means to recover the repair investment. Other than my satisfaction of being able to build a road where I want it and cleaning trash that has been discarded over the years before we owned it. So I hope I get much cheaper than that. I guy I bought it from has a running engine he will sale me for $3K. If I get into this one and it is ruined I will probably go with the used engine for the $3K.
This is a 1985 year model and I would hate to think of spending over $11K on it for a play toy! That would take all of the fun out of it for me!
Thanks!
B-Crazy
Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
Good evening Guys!
I have the knocking 1155 at my place yay! I have removed the hood side places, and the 3 belly pans under the front part of the engine. It looks like I will also have to pull the first belly pan right behind the frame crossmember to get to the back end of the oil pan. I didn't get to that one as it was beginning to get dark and I was glad I needed some rest.
One question I have is, can the oil pan be removed with the engine in place? I certainly hope so! I feel I will have to pull the engine anyway because I think I will find a broken rod with a damaged crank. Hey but I can still hope that I am wrong until I actually see it.
I made a short video so you Guys could hear it to see if you could give me ant pointers before I get deeper into this. But so far I have been able to get it to load but I am still trying.
I have the knocking 1155 at my place yay! I have removed the hood side places, and the 3 belly pans under the front part of the engine. It looks like I will also have to pull the first belly pan right behind the frame crossmember to get to the back end of the oil pan. I didn't get to that one as it was beginning to get dark and I was glad I needed some rest.
One question I have is, can the oil pan be removed with the engine in place? I certainly hope so! I feel I will have to pull the engine anyway because I think I will find a broken rod with a damaged crank. Hey but I can still hope that I am wrong until I actually see it.
I made a short video so you Guys could hear it to see if you could give me ant pointers before I get deeper into this. But so far I have been able to get it to load but I am still trying.
Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
I still have not been able to get the video to load but it is not the forum site, it is something about the video. It is only 34 seconds long but it still takes a long time to load in my email.
Hopefully I will figure it out.
However the more I listen to the video I am beginning to wonder if this is a dropped valve, and not a broken rod.
If it is a dropped valve and not a broken rod with crank damage, I will feel that I have hit the jackpot!!!!
For you Guys that have experience with these engines, when thy go down is it more often a dropped valve that a broken rod?
Today is the Lord's day so I rest on Sunday but tomorrow after work I should be able to answer this question by pulling the 3 small valve covers. The suspense is killing me!
Happy Sunday Guys!
B-Crazy
Hopefully I will figure it out.
However the more I listen to the video I am beginning to wonder if this is a dropped valve, and not a broken rod.
If it is a dropped valve and not a broken rod with crank damage, I will feel that I have hit the jackpot!!!!
For you Guys that have experience with these engines, when thy go down is it more often a dropped valve that a broken rod?
Today is the Lord's day so I rest on Sunday but tomorrow after work I should be able to answer this question by pulling the 3 small valve covers. The suspense is killing me!
Happy Sunday Guys!
B-Crazy
Cat977
Senior Member
I probably won't be much help on the engine, but maybe I can give a bit of moral support. Oh Ya keep us updated! O Ya don't forget the Pictures! I Also believe a wise man finds a day of rest, if he can find it restful and beneficial. I'm trying to make mine Tuesdays, so far I'm only batting 50/50 and I'm retired!
Best Of Luck!
Best Of Luck!
Last edited:
mekanik
Senior Member
I still have not been able to get the video to load but it is not the forum site, it is something about the video. It is only 34 seconds long but it still takes a long time to load in my email.
Hopefully I will figure it out.
However the more I listen to the video I am beginning to wonder if this is a dropped valve, and not a broken rod.
If it is a dropped valve and not a broken rod with crank damage, I will feel that I have hit the jackpot!!!!
For you Guys that have experience with these engines, when thy go down is it more often a dropped valve that a broken rod?
Today is the Lord's day so I rest on Sunday but tomorrow after work I should be able to answer this question by pulling the 3 small valve covers. The suspense is killing me!
Happy Sunday Guys!
B-Crazy
It could be a few things causing the noise. Is it miss-firing? What color is the exhaust?
I have seen a couple engines have injectors fail and they really knocked hard. Cracking
the injector lines one at a time I found which cylinder was knocking. Swapped the injector
between cylinders and the knock moved to the other cylinder. You would have swore
by the sound there was a serious failure. A new injector cured the noise.
Pull the valve cover and make sure all the valve train is in good order. I doubt it will be
a broken connecting rod. Maybe a failed rod bearing. The Case 1155D that I worked
on had a long spiral electric pre-heater in the intake that looked like it could break off
and drop into the intake. That would cause a knocking sound.
Cut the filter open and remove the element. A tube cutter works well but a hacksaw will do the trick.
Take a razor knife and cut a piece of the pleated paper out of it the width of your vice and about 3" long
You want to see the outside of the element that is where the debris will be.
Put the pleated paper in your vice and squeeze the oil out of it and wipe it off with a clean rag.
When you loosen the vice the paper will dry up and you can see what is in it. Lots of copper
is probably a crankshaft bearing. Post a picture of the filter paper if you can.
I'm just tagging along with the conversation, I myself own a 1155e but that has the 5.9 cummins in it, which I've rebuilt once.
As for your shifting levers, if its like the E model, you have a high and low on each lever and also a reversing lever on each track, meaning you can shift one track in forward and the other in reverse and turn in circles, then you have a high low lever as well, meaning four speeds total.
There a nice loader, not fond of the case 504 myself, but with a cummins in them, they're an excellent machine.
As for your shifting levers, if its like the E model, you have a high and low on each lever and also a reversing lever on each track, meaning you can shift one track in forward and the other in reverse and turn in circles, then you have a high low lever as well, meaning four speeds total.
There a nice loader, not fond of the case 504 myself, but with a cummins in them, they're an excellent machine.
Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
My brother (who is older than I and retired) says if you think you can't catch up before you retire don't think that retiring will help that. Once you retire everyone has something for you to do! I hope to find out one day in about 8 more years!
Cat977
Senior Member
I've got to say "How did I ever had time to Work!" Then again I did Enjoy my past days of Working. I'm hoping you get a pleasant Surprise on your Machine, Something Like the injectors "like mekanik" said would be real Sweet! All the easy Tests is a good Idea before you get to a place of "Tear it Down". I don't know how to post a video but that would be an informing start.
Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
Yes that would be sweet for sure!
Man if could get that video to load I think that would be a great clue to you Guys that have years of experience with these machines. I am usually pretty good at attaching documents and pics but I have not been able to figure this one out. I guess I will have to wait until one of my adult kids to come see their old daddy and they can probably fix it right up!
Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
Exhaust color, gray.
I pulled the valve covers today, all valves seem to be in tact.
No Pre-heater on this one, I guess we don't need them in NC, so that would not be it.
If you just bump the starter it cranks so I guess the compression is good which would probably rule out the dropped valve I thinking that it may be.
If anyone knows if the oil pan can be removed while the engine is still bolted in the frame that would be a big help. Unless it is something like the injector you talked about to fix it the oil pan will have to come off. It just doesn't look like there there is enough space for it to come off while bolted in but I hope I am wrong. However if it is a bad bearing with crank damage the engine will have to come out to change/repair it.
But I am hoping for a better our come.
More to come tomorrow night when get time to play with it after work again.
Thanks for all of the the info and advice
With the 5.9 cummins in the E model, the engine has to come out because of where the cross members or located in order to get the pan off, I've venture a guess the case engine is the same, but I've never done one before with the case engine.
You might be able to unbolt the front of the engine and jack it up enough to get the pan off while still in the machine, but in order to do that, you'll have it 3/4 th disassembled anyhow and myself, I'd just pull the engine and torque converter and do outside the machine, sounds to me you need to go into the engine anyhow, that way its out and easier to work on.
I've done a lot of labor saving ways over the years, only to find out, they usually end being more work than the work they were supposed to save. Just my two cents.
You might be able to unbolt the front of the engine and jack it up enough to get the pan off while still in the machine, but in order to do that, you'll have it 3/4 th disassembled anyhow and myself, I'd just pull the engine and torque converter and do outside the machine, sounds to me you need to go into the engine anyhow, that way its out and easier to work on.
I've done a lot of labor saving ways over the years, only to find out, they usually end being more work than the work they were supposed to save. Just my two cents.
Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
Good evening Guys here is what I did today after work. I pulled all of the injectors so I could turn the engine over all I wanted without any compression.
There was no knock while running it with the starter. I felt this was a little strange because when i would bump the starter while cranking it the knock was immediate I assume this means I have a bad rod bearing. Does this sound reasonable to you all?
It will probably be a couple of days before I can get back to it. At that point I thing I will lock the injectors back down one at a time until I find which cylinder is causing the knock.
Then I should know where the bad bearing is. That way I can pull the head and the effected cylinder and make sure everything on the top end is fine before I jump on the bottom end. I was certainly hoping it would on the top end but now it is doubtful that I can repair the engine without going to the crank. Which also means I will have to pull the engine. I was hoping for an in frame rebuild on it but I don't see anyway to do that now.
B-Crazy
And Have fun a little!!
There was no knock while running it with the starter. I felt this was a little strange because when i would bump the starter while cranking it the knock was immediate I assume this means I have a bad rod bearing. Does this sound reasonable to you all?
It will probably be a couple of days before I can get back to it. At that point I thing I will lock the injectors back down one at a time until I find which cylinder is causing the knock.
Then I should know where the bad bearing is. That way I can pull the head and the effected cylinder and make sure everything on the top end is fine before I jump on the bottom end. I was certainly hoping it would on the top end but now it is doubtful that I can repair the engine without going to the crank. Which also means I will have to pull the engine. I was hoping for an in frame rebuild on it but I don't see anyway to do that now.
B-Crazy
And Have fun a little!!
Cat977
Senior Member
B-Crazy sounds to me as you have done some good trouble shooting. "I know Zip about engines." Too bad an in frame isn't a choice for you. I wonder why they don't design all frames with that in mind. I suppose it would increase costs and not help sales. Work on getting some getting some pictures posted the suspense is Killing Me!!!
Best of Luck
Best of Luck
mekanik
Senior Member
B Crazy
I would bot bother putting the injectors back in. Cut the filter open and remove the element.
A tube cutter works well but a hacksaw will do the trick. Take a razor knife and cut a piece
of the pleated paper out of it the width of your vice and about 3" long You want to see the
outside of the element that is where the debris will be.
Put the pleated paper in your vice and squeeze the oil out of it and wipe it off with a clean rag.
When you loosen the vice the paper will dry up and you can see what is in it. Lots of copper
is probably a crankshaft bearing. Post a picture of the filter paper if you can.
I would bot bother putting the injectors back in. Cut the filter open and remove the element.
A tube cutter works well but a hacksaw will do the trick. Take a razor knife and cut a piece
of the pleated paper out of it the width of your vice and about 3" long You want to see the
outside of the element that is where the debris will be.
Put the pleated paper in your vice and squeeze the oil out of it and wipe it off with a clean rag.
When you loosen the vice the paper will dry up and you can see what is in it. Lots of copper
is probably a crankshaft bearing. Post a picture of the filter paper if you can.
Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
Good evening mekanik!
I know to an experienced heavy equipment person as yourself you will think this is a funny question. But try not to laugh too hard, remember this is my first BIG machine and as of yet I do not have a shop manual.
I want to be sure I cut open the correct filter so is the primary filter the front or rear filter?
B-Crazy
mekanik
Senior Member
Can you post a pic of the filters?
Bobcat Crazy
Senior Member
Good evening Cat,
I hope these pics come through good. I don't consider any of them to really good pics of the project but you can see my new toy.