Cat d8h parts search

Nige · Aug 21, 2021

Old Magnet said:
For the 69Exxxx blade
Center cutting edges (2) 6J7116
RH end bit 5J8769
LH end bit 5J8770

Based on Lindsey's length measurement the numbers supplied by OM are correct.
6J-7116 has been cancelled & replaced by 4T-3418. Same measurements though. This edge is 1" thick.
If you want an edge of the same length but 1.75" thick order 107-3476.
Whichever of the numbers above that you buy you'll need two of them.

nicky 68a · Aug 22, 2021

Your D8 looks quite nice
Your blade is a standard 8S blade and will be easy to buy edges for.
It has 2 center edges and 2 corner shoes as seen in your picture.
The D8K has 3 center edges.
If you get them made up,it’s likely you’ll need to trim them up abit to make things fit.
Personally,I use genuine Cat edges as they fit perfectly and aren’t too badly priced.In saying that,I’ve been buying MST Bucyrus edges for the last 4 years as they are cheaper and have been lasting longer in my application.
I’m not sure if you can source them in the US though?

Lindsey97 · Aug 22, 2021

I really appreciate everyone's help.

So is the blade prefix a 29E or 69E? 8S?

I got it back together this evening, and raised the blade to look at the bottom of the current cutting edges. The end bits barely have any bevel left, and the 2 center edges are flat on the bottoms. When I put cat edges on my D4C 7kg years ago, it had an angled bevel like a knife, and would dig much better. I'm not crazy right? It's supposed to have a bevel like a knife blade to cut with. I've replaced more bucket teeth than cutting edges.

More pics forthcoming.

Bluox · Aug 22, 2021

Your blade is a semi u blade D-8s don't have straight blades.
Your cutting edges are flat and the tapered edge will wear flat.
they have a lot of wear left other than being broken
These guys are guessing which blade you have.
Look on the right side back of the blade there may be a serial number tag ,if the tag is gone look for the rivet holes the number will be stamped between them.
Good luck
Bob

Old Magnet · Aug 23, 2021

The straight blades are of a modified "U" design.
Really do need a s/n to get it right.
The straight blade is the only one that matches your width dimensions. ,

tctractors · Aug 23, 2021

The D8H has 2 10 bolt sections, the D8K has 3 7 bolt sections, both types are common to find. tctractors

Old Magnet · Aug 23, 2021

You need to get tighter with your measuring.
To be a 8S 69E with 4T3418 cutting edges the length is 60.34", 6" bolt spacing and first hole 3.17" in from the ends. This is a 1" thick cutting edge. My info does not show a 1-3/8 thick cutting edge for the 69E

Lindsey97 · Aug 23, 2021

Old Magnet said:
You need to get tighter with your measuring.
To be a 8S 69E with 4T3418 cutting edges the length is 60.34", 6" bolt spacing and first hole 3.17" in from the ends. This is a 1" thick cutting edge. My info does not show a 1-3/8 thick cutting edge for the 69E

Made a mistake, measurement from top of end bit to end bit is 12' 9". BUT I did find my blade serial number, tag is missing but can read it stamped into blade: 29E5638.

Lindsey97 · Aug 23, 2021

Got my gauges all replaced and throttle knob installed today. Beginning to consider welding peices into the broken center edges or just replacing the 2 center cutting edges. I wonder if they will come off and leave the end bits on? Nige has me thinking since I have at least 1.25" of edge left before i get into the moldboard.

Old Magnet · Aug 23, 2021

29E5638 (correct for your s/n) is an 8S blade with latest number cutting edges (2) 4T6531. These are 1" thick. The end bits are LH 4J8850, RH 4J8849 and are 1-1/8" thick.
Welding on cutting edges can be done, iffy at best, helps to have special rod which I don't recall.

Late "S" Blades...

Jonas302 · Aug 23, 2021

Just as well to leave them alone until they really need to be messed with you would have to be doing some pretty fine work with the old 8 to even notice those little strips of dirt that get though and run over by the tracks

Bluox · Aug 24, 2021

The cutting edges on that blade have been worn way past the replace point in the past and Your frogs have been have been worn off.
Your cutting edges can be turned as the upper side is full width just have to buy bolts.
If you look at the left side you will see how the edge is sniped off to allow the blade to be turned to the other side.
I would go ahead and run them for a while.
In homeowner land this blade may be called a straight blade in in caterpillar land it's called a semi-u blade.
Keep a close eye on the water level and temp these motors won't take over heating well.
I'm just finishing up a 583 with 2 busted heads same motor.

Happy dozing
Bob

John C. · Aug 24, 2021

I believe the book term is “semi universal.” Straight blades as I recall are used to push scrapers.

Old Magnet · Aug 24, 2021

Call it what you want but when you need parts this is how Cat lists it.

Welder Dave · Aug 24, 2021

Old Magnet said:
29E5638 (correct for your s/n) is an 8S blade with latest number cutting edges (2) 4T6531. These are 1" thick. The end bits are LH 4J8850, RH 4J8849 and are 1-1/8" thick.
Welding on cutting edges can be done, iffy at best, helps to have special rod which I don't recall.

Late "S" Blades...

You'd want a welding rod designed for difficult to weld steels such as spring steel and high carbon steel. Coincidently it's the same type of rod used for removing broken bolts, generally 120-130,000 tensile strength.
Most specialty rod suppliers have them in smaller packages. Preheat would also be advisable if you went the welding route.

DB2 · Aug 24, 2021

I weld grader blades together all the time with normal 7018. They wear it off before it ever breaks.

Welder Dave · Aug 24, 2021

7018 and lots of preheat may work on standard blades but I'm not sure what dozer blades are made from.

DB2 · Aug 24, 2021

All are Cat DH2 steel from what I remember. Someone may have better information however.

56wrench · Aug 25, 2021

some cheaper edges are carbon steel and may be case-hardened. the best edges for wear and low to moderate impact are through-hardened. you get what you pay for

Lindsey97 · Aug 25, 2021

I ordered 2 4T6531 center cutting edges and bolt/nuts today from Warren Cat. I do agree with you get what you pay for, and I always liked cat's bolts and nuts better. The 4T6513 are just barely shorter in length than the 4T3418 edges. Hoping the shorter overall length will allow me to leave the end bits on(no cutting of bolts) and just simply replace the 2 center edges. If not, I've got a grinder. Will likely replace the whole edge later as Nige suggested with 1.75" thick hardware.

Also ordered the shifter guide 2M8796, crazy for spending that much $$, but I want it to be right and stay right for a long time.

Ran it today about 2 hours stripping topsoil, it's incredibly hot here in southern oklahoma, engine water temp gets to 200f, I let it sit at high idle for 10 minutes and the temp drops back down on the gauge. Oil pressure is a smitch low but I'm running 15-40 instead of sae30. I've also noticed the fuel pressure gauge isn't in the green, but in the middle. Don't quite understand the fuel pressure as this is my first machine with this particular gauge.

Cat d8h parts search

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