Former Champion operators

Welder Dave · Aug 16, 2021

I purchased a Champion 730A and it is a series II. I just found out it is a 1986 model. I can't find a manual online for series II machines but was wondering if float position is standard or an option? The machine used to run a snow wing if that makes any difference. Also guessing it's not uncommon for the gear indicator to be hard to read? Do you need to start off in 1st gear or can you start off in a higher gear like 3rd?

dieseldoctordan · Aug 18, 2021

Congrats on the purchase of your grader. I do believe that float position was an option. It consisted of float control valves mounted on the lift cylinders that were activated by a pair of switches in the cab. There is supposed to be a light in the controller that makes it easier to read what gear that it is in, but is nasty to change. It's quite acceptable to start off in 3rd or 4th gears provided that you don't have too heavy of a load on the machine. Also, be careful to use the proper oil in the clutch and brake master cylinders. They use a very low viscosity mineral oil. Regular brake fluid will not mix with oil, and would make sludge that would require tearing apart the entire brake system to clean up. These were pretty tough old machines, and if treated right will give many dependable hours of service.

Welder Dave · Aug 18, 2021

I did read in 1 of the manuals to use 10wt engine oil meeting TO-2 spec. Apparently it works better than the original oil which I think was Dextron II. I'm going to go by Jade Equipment and get some more info on operation and lubricants. Apparently they still have rebuilt exchange trannies. The parts guy I talked to said the Cummins is a better choice engine as some parts for 6-71's are getting harder to find. If the 8.3 is basically a larger version of the 5.9, should have a long life span. I know a farmer with a 5.9 in a Case tractor with over 20,000 hours and still going strong.
Another thing I was wondering was if anyone has ever installed a smaller 2nd seat for training or being able to have a passenger? I think there's room on the left side of the cab.

cuttin edge · Aug 20, 2021

My 730 had 2 rocker switches for float on the pedistal. I think they were on either side of the tac. Only thing I ever used them for was lowering the mb to the ground when I parked. I know some guys use float, but I prefer to be in control of the blade position at all times. If one side digs in, the other side will pop up really hard.

Welder Dave · Aug 20, 2021

From what I could find the series III had the switches above the tach. and I think series II had switches on the right door post. This machine just has a plastic cover on the right door post. The biggest reason I was wondering about float is for clearing snow on unlevel ground like sod or dirt. Might better to just lift the blade up an inch or so though so I don't cause damage to the ground material. I may need to clear a sod parking area in the winter and I want to clear snow off an MX track in the spring so it dries faster. It would be good for setting the blade down even too. I'll have to do a bunch of experimenting to get used to it. The right lift lever sticks when pushed forward almost like it has a detent position for float like a loader. Maybe just need to lube the linkage.
How did you like running the 730?I know some operators preferred Champion.

crane operator · Aug 21, 2021

If you're trying to keep from gouging when pushing snow in the grass, I would think you'd be best off just rolling the blade clear back, so it wouldn't bite in, but stay riding on top.

Welder Dave · Aug 21, 2021

Thanks Crane op, I wasn't thinking of that. Somehow I was thinking of dozer blades where you tilt the blade forward to dig in better. A grader blade tilts a lot more forward where it will kind of drag across the surface.

cuttin edge · Aug 21, 2021

Mine was an 88 or 89. It had the cummins, and the unable to see transmission display. It had a 14 foot MB, which was a little too big for the machine. It was my daily driver from 1998, to 2012. I think it had like 28000 hours on it. It used to put oil out the vent for the transmission when driving at full speed. They put a tank on the back of the cab, ran the vent line to the bottom of it, and put the vent cap on top. It would catch the oil, and allow it to drain back when you slowed down or stopped. It never let me down. I like my 2011 Volvo. Same MB system, a bit more plastic for wear parts, but it is the king of codes. I farted today, and it gave me a transmission code. If you look under the front of the circle gear, there are 2 gears that turn the circle with the cranks and pistons. In between the 2 is a thin gear for timing. If you never grease anything else on the machine, keep that greased up. If it gets worn. The bearing, not the gear. It will f up your timing, and the circle will start jamming

Welder Dave · Aug 21, 2021

I read somewhere else the display for what gear you are in gets really hard to read. That's a relief that it's common. If I look real close I can at least read it. This is good if it ever shows a code. The grader has a 16ft mold board because a 2 ft. extention was welded on. The circle turns OK but kind of "bumps" at a couple spots. I think it's when 1 cylinder switches direction and the opposite 1 takes over. I looked in the tool box at the front of the machine and under an empty plastic container was a pistol grip grease gun. Bonus for me.
It will take a while to remember what control lever does what. It's a little intimidating but I think once I start trying some things I'll get more used to it. I think putting new cutting edges on so it is straight will be one of the 1st things I'll do. It came with some almost new serrated blades and I'm wondering how they would work for general dirt work? Will they leave a bunch of little ridges? I'm hoping it doesn't have any major problems. I won't put a lot of hours on it.

Welder Dave · Aug 21, 2021

cuttin edge said:
Mine was an 88 or 89. It had the cummins, and the unable to see transmission display. It had a 14 foot MB, which was a little too big for the machine. It was my daily driver from 1998, to 2012. I think it had like 28000 hours on it. It used to put oil out the vent for the transmission when driving at full speed. They put a tank on the back of the cab, ran the vent line to the bottom of it, and put the vent cap on top. It would catch the oil, and allow it to drain back when you slowed down or stopped. It never let me down. I like my 2011 Volvo. Same MB system, a bit more plastic for wear parts, but it is the king of codes. I farted today, and it gave me a transmission code. If you look under the front of the circle gear, there are 2 gears that turn the circle with the cranks and pistons. In between the 2 is a thin gear for timing. If you never grease anything else on the machine, keep that greased up. If it gets worn. The bearing, not the gear. It will f up your timing, and the circle will start jamming

Did you notice a lot of difference in the machine from 1998 to when it was retired? Just wondering if the blade stayed fairly tight or was real sloppy after 20,000+ hours. The hour meter in my machine doesn't work but shows 13514 hours.

cuttin edge · Aug 22, 2021

Welder Dave said:
Did you notice a lot of difference in the machine from 1998 to when it was retired? Just wondering if the blade stayed fairly tight or was real sloppy after 20,000+ hours. The hour meter in my machine doesn't work but shows 13514 hours.

It had a lot of hours on it when I took the seat. The circle was never taken care of properly. It was worn out of round. If you tried to re shim, it would jam. It did the job. I was told by a service man to never grease the slide shaft for side shift, or the flat part of the circle. It collects material, and causes faster wear. I tried dry graphite, but it was too far gone by the time I took over. Grease should be fine since you're not spreading any tonnage, or doing KMs of roads. The grader never retired. As far as I know, it went to auction when we got the Volvo. 16 foot mb is a lot to push. I thought the 14 was bad.

Welder Dave · Aug 22, 2021

I'm not sure how well the 16' blade will work for my needs but I don't want to work the machine to its limits. I could cut the welded on extension off if need be. I was reading the serrated cutting edges are good for hard ground and wondering how they work for general blading? The current standard edges are worn in the middle and since the serrated blades came with the machine and are like new, I thought it would probably be best to put them on so I can grade flat. Do the notches in the blades make much difference?

398370 · Aug 22, 2021

Have only seen notched serrated cutting edges for ice/snow removal not a operator have no idea how would work in dirt

Jonas302 · Aug 22, 2021

The serrated edges work but may be more difficult for beginning

If your old edges have even 1/2 inch past the frog snap a chalk line and cut them off strait I'm guessing your track is a clay type deal and blades will last a long time compared to a gravel road

Welder Dave · Aug 23, 2021

I read the serrated edges are good for harder ground in addition to ice and snow but wanted to hear from experienced operators. I think at the shortest the blades are about 1/2" past the frog so I could cut them straight. I priced out new blades and they are $173 for an 8"x3/4"x 8' long straight edge which I think is reasonable but since I had the serrated blades I should just put them on. Won't be trying the new grader out for awhile as it's raining pretty good today and no sense making a mess in the mud.

cuttin edge · Aug 23, 2021

The ice blades should be fine. They will wear faster, but it should suit your needs. You might find rocks get stuck between the tines, but it should do a great job on clay. Try the 16, and if it seems too hard to push, you can always remove the extension.

Welder Dave · Aug 23, 2021

I'd be curious to know why the extension was welded on. It doesn't look like there were any issues but maybe the bolts wouldn't stay tight or something??? If I did remove the extension would I need to replace both cutting blades or could a 6ft. blade be used with an existing 8ft. blade? Also wondering if you can push as hard with the extension as you can with the normal end of the moldboard?

cuttin edge · Aug 23, 2021

MBs come in 12 13 14 16 and in the extreme 10 or 24. A 13 uses a 6 and 7. I've never used an extension. I've seen them on graders with snow wings, for better coverage at the wing. My 730 could handle the 14, but could be harder to use when taking a cut in hard packed material. Oh and don't worry about using the torch for cutting a square edge, I have never broken one that has been cut. I have found that a torched blade sometimes wears out faster, but on fine grade jobs you need a good straight blade.

Silveroddo · Aug 24, 2021

Just a side note on fluids, as far as the brake fluid goes I went down that rabbit hole a year ago and discovered that its basically aviation brake fluid, not bad to get online but a royal pain to get locally. Also Cat makes a TDTO transmission fluid, that's the route I went on mine this spring and it seems to be working well.

Fatgraderman · Aug 29, 2021

Silveroddo said:
Just a side note on fluids, as far as the brake fluid goes I went down that rabbit hole a year ago and discovered that its basically aviation brake fluid, not bad to get online but a royal pain to get locally. Also Cat makes a TDTO transmission fluid, that's the route I went on mine this spring and it seems to be working well.

We used to use Univus J13 in brakes. Not sure if it’s still made but we bought it at Edson.

The wet clutch was fairly tough on the ones I ran. But if I had a mouldboard full I started in 1st or 2nd and shifted up to 4th.

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