Where do I find a torque wrench that can handle 460 foot pounds?

emmett518 · Aug 16, 2021

In reading the manual for the 310 L, it suggests torquing the boom to dipperstick pin bolt torque to 460 foot pounds.

Where do I find a torque wrench to do this that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Or do I have to bite the bullet, and spend the money? Or is it sufficient just to make sure it's tight?

Thanks

JD955SC · Aug 16, 2021

3/4 drive torque wrench is what you need to reach that range, they typically go to 600.

but is this just a bolt that secures the pin to keep it from walking out of its bore? If so I just run them down with the impact and give them a couple Ugga duggas

emmett518 · Aug 16, 2021

I think so. I’m going to look at it today.

kshansen · Aug 16, 2021

Or you can use simple math. If say you weigh about 230 lbs and have a breaker bar that is 2 feet long just lean your full weight on the bar. If you are a little guy of 115 pounds put a pipe on the breaker bar that is 4 feet long!

emmett518 · Aug 16, 2021

a unit of torque equal to the force of 1 lb acting perpendicularly to an axis of rotation at a distance of 1 foot.
I never thought in that direction!

kshansen · Aug 16, 2021

emmett518 said:
a unit of torque equal to the force of 1 lb acting perpendicularly to an axis of rotation at a distance of 1 foot.
I never thought in that direction!

If I was to have the ambition I could possibly find a Euclid service manual page that gives a spec' for the torque of an axle nut that specifies the length of a bar and the weight of the mechanic!

excavator · Aug 16, 2021

kshansen said:
Or you can use simple math. If say you weigh about 230 lbs and have a breaker bar that is 2 feet long just lean your full weight on the bar. If you are a little guy of 115 pounds put a pipe on the breaker bar that is 4 feet long!

And if you're a little guy and need to weigh more just start filling you pockets with large sockets and wrenches.

Truck Shop · Aug 16, 2021

kshansen said:
Or you can use simple math. If say you weigh about 230 lbs and have a breaker bar that is 2 feet long just lean your full weight on the bar. If you are a little guy of 115 pounds put a pipe on the breaker bar that is 4 feet long!

It's going to be a pretty short bar for a biscuits and gravy weighing in at 600.

dirty4fun · Aug 16, 2021

emmett518 said:
In reading the manual for the 310 L, it suggests torquing the boom to dipperstick pin bolt torque to 460 foot pounds.

Where do I find a torque wrench to do this that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Or do I have to bite the bullet, and spend the money? Or is it sufficient just to make sure it's tight?

Thanks

I have a couple used ones that I bought at an auction that came from John Deere. I would like to sell them if you are interested send me a message.

JLarson · Aug 16, 2021

I'm the same most pin retainer bolts just get hit with a 1/2" air or 1/2" mid torque fuel gun.

But a 3/4" wrench would be where you want to be for that range. Look around used/pawn shops if you want one.

emmett518 · Aug 16, 2021

Torqued the wrong bolt and snapped it off. Now have to find a way to get the piece out. Thinking I’m going to have someone weld a bolt to it and wrench it out.

Five minute job. One broken bolt. 4 day annoyance.

JD955SC · Aug 17, 2021

emmett518 said:
Torqued the wrong bolt and snapped it off. Now have to find a way to get the piece out. Thinking I’m going to have someone weld a bolt to it and wrench it out.

Five minute job. One broken bolt. 4 day annoyance.

How much mechanical experience do you have?

if you are going to be wrenching on construction equipment broken bolt extraction is a skill you will need to develop. You could try walking it out with a punch and hammer too. A freshly snapped bolt this method may work on.

emmett518 · Aug 17, 2021

JD955SC said:
How much mechanical experience do you have?

if you are going to be wrenching on construction equipment broken bolt extraction is a skill you will need to develop. You could try walking it out with a punch and hammer too. A freshly snapped bolt this method may work on.

Very little experience with removing broken bolts. I know that I can drill a hole in the fastener, and use a screw extractor, but this piece is probably in tight, and I don't think the extractor will work well. Plus, I worry about munging up the threaded hole with a hand drill.

No idea how to walk it out with a punch and a hammer.

emmett518 · Aug 17, 2021

emmett518 said:
Very little experience with removing broken bolts. I know that I can drill a hole in the fastener, and use a screw extractor, but this piece is probably in tight, and I don't think the extractor will work well. Plus, I worry about munging up the threaded hole with a hand drill. When a screw broke off in my vice, the machine shop welded a piece of metal to the broken piece, and used that as a tool to back it out.

No idea how to walk it out with a punch and a hammer.

dirty4fun · Aug 17, 2021

Use a small sharp cold chisel along the edge to create a burr, then a duller chisel to tap and turn the bolt out. Remember righty tighty lefty loosy.
The correct torque is usually stop a half turn before the bolt breaks!

Tugger2 · Aug 17, 2021

Thats what those stubby 3/8" ratchets are for,the 600 lb guy

1693TA · Aug 17, 2021

I usually weld a grade 8 nut matching the size of the broken fastener to the broken stub. Easier with a mig machine, but have done it numerous times with stick also.

These are extracting the rounded out "Torx", or Allen head fasteners, (don't remember) in my Kubota diesel to get the sheave removed from the crankshaft snout:

Works the same for broken Cummins engine head bolts too.....

kshansen · Aug 17, 2021

1693TA said:
I usually weld a grade 8 nut matching the size of the broken fastener to the broken stub. Easier with a mig machine, but have done it numerous times with stick also.

These are extracting the rounded out "Torx", or Allen head fasteners, (don't remember) in my Kubota diesel to get the sheave removed from the crankshaft snout:

Something about those flat head screws that make them hard to get out. Had them holding planetarys on a IH loader and only way to get them out was to heat the head close to red and let cool then they would turn out so easy hardly needed the ratchet on the allen head socket. Also have the same problem on the little 1/4 inch screws for the access cover on my Sportster, but being in aluminum don't dare use heat. Those I just drill the head off and then the threads turn out with fingers. Tired anti-sieze and just barley tightening them and still half the time at least one needs to be drilled!

terex herder · Aug 24, 2021

A big hammer is the best solution for those socket flat heads, but that makes it a two man operation. Put an L wrench in the socket, and make a punch that will clear the L wrench. Put good torque on the L wrench, and hit the bolt head with your special punch. About 1# of hammer per 1/16" of diameter of the screw. You have to do this to start with and it will work. If you wait until you have rounded out the socket with your worn out wrench its already to late.

As for the bolts, get a torque stick for your big gun. Its close enough to the torque on semi wheels, so you need it anyway.

Randy88 · Aug 27, 2021

I found some really nice fairly cheap dial torque wrenches on facebook marketplace, same for ebay and some local pawn shops, there out there, especially the larger sizes, most people don't need those so at the right place and time, they are fairly cheap [reasonable] but the calculated method of weight and length does the job too.

Where do I find a torque wrench that can handle 460 foot pounds?

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