Old Magnet
Senior Member
Reading back there is a sump full of diesel that needs to be taken care of first.
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Should I take on this project? 50s Cat D4
- Thread starter Lumberjack Matt
- Start date
Lumberjack Matt
Well-Known Member
I got the crankcase drained today... no surprises, just black oily diesel as I was expecting. Drain plug magnet was free of metal shavings, although it's not a very strong magnet so who knows.
Does anyone know of a way to turn the motor by hand, before I invest $250 on a battery so I can bump it and make sure it's not frozen? Normally I would just wrench on the crank bolt, but the hydraulic pump is up there. This is the first big machine I've ever wrenched on! Living my dream out here.
Does anyone know of a way to turn the motor by hand, before I invest $250 on a battery so I can bump it and make sure it's not frozen? Normally I would just wrench on the crank bolt, but the hydraulic pump is up there. This is the first big machine I've ever wrenched on! Living my dream out here.
Not that big of an engine. It should turn over by turning the fan and belt by hand if you can get a good grip. A little at time obviously as you can't turn it against compression. And if you can turn it over against compression, don't start it up and chop off your hands.
catman13
Senior Member
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- oregon usa
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put a car battery in it , it let you know if it is ok
Old Magnet
Senior Member
Take the main clutch access cover off and try prying in there with the trans in neutral.
Towing in a high gear is also an option.
Towing in a high gear is also an option.
Lumberjack Matt
Well-Known Member
Great idea on the flywheel. I think before I do that, I'll take the injectors out and pour penetrating oil in all the cylinders.
Lumberjack Matt
Well-Known Member
I pulled the injectors and cleaned them up and replaced the o rings on them. One of them was pretty clogged up. After I poured a bunch of penetrating oil into the cylinders, I bumped the starter a few times with a car battery. Don't think it had enough juice to spin the motor (500cca vs 1000cca needed), but it moved the motor about a degree each time I bumped it. I'll get a battery on Tuesday I guess.
Next up I pulled the clutch inspection cover, and boy oh boy, count all the things wrong in here.
Just to my untrained eye I see a mystery spring, a case full of oil (and probably water since there wasn't a gasket on the cover and I just pressure washed it earlier), a lubrication bowl clogged with sludge, and a loose bolt.
Don't see the spring anywhere in my parts manual. The one shown here is present in the picture. Maybe a field repair to prevent chattering? Guess I'll find out!
There is fortunately a drain plug at the bottom to empty this case out, but it's the same hex bit 1-1/4 as the other plugs which I don't have, so I ordered one of those. Guess I'm at a stopping point for now.
Next up I pulled the clutch inspection cover, and boy oh boy, count all the things wrong in here.
Just to my untrained eye I see a mystery spring, a case full of oil (and probably water since there wasn't a gasket on the cover and I just pressure washed it earlier), a lubrication bowl clogged with sludge, and a loose bolt.
Don't see the spring anywhere in my parts manual. The one shown here is present in the picture. Maybe a field repair to prevent chattering? Guess I'll find out!
There is fortunately a drain plug at the bottom to empty this case out, but it's the same hex bit 1-1/4 as the other plugs which I don't have, so I ordered one of those. Guess I'm at a stopping point for now.
DMiller
Senior Member
This will be 24v start, 12v will barely drag it. Check the Generator, should be marked 12v or 24v
The cup is a funnel to essentially oil the clutch linkage parts thru a grease nipple. Spring is a return spring for the linkage, original one still in place, the hanger is a add on.
The cup is a funnel to essentially oil the clutch linkage parts thru a grease nipple. Spring is a return spring for the linkage, original one still in place, the hanger is a add on.
Lumberjack Matt
Well-Known Member
The generator is marked as 12V, and the battery was a group 4DA which is a 12V I believe. That cup is completely clogged with grease. It's almost like someone shot grease through the lid up top instead of oil.
Where does the extra spring go? Same spot as the other one?
DMiller
Senior Member
Extra spring I would discard, not for the application based on the wire up job of it. Will need amps to turn the old 4 banger. Would still put a bar to the clutch and see how stiff it turns.
Tones
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As I wrote earlier there should be the original decompression lever fitted. Use that to decompression the engine,it will make it far easier to turn the engine over without it firing up which is exactly what needs to be done. The last thing you need is a generator problem caused by a piston coming out of the block.
Lumberjack Matt
Well-Known Member
decompression lever is open, injectors aren't even in right now
Old Magnet
Senior Member
Check the starter solenoid for 12v or 24v. To early to have glow plugs so starter could be 12v. Still need to bar engine over, preferably a couple revolutions to make sure there is no foreign stuff in the cylinders. Clutch release bearing takes oil not grease.
The car battery should have no trouble turning the engine over, not saying it will start it, just turn it over if the engine is loose and the starting system is functional. Maybe pull the starter or cover and see if the brushes are loose? I wouldn't be surprised if the engine would turn over one degree just from the solenoid slamming. Check cranking voltage first, it's easier than removing starter or examining the brushes and cables.
petepilot
Senior Member
I think i have that goofy post in the wrong thread
I suspect this one will probably be like my D6 having a 12volt system since pony motor isn’t there. 24 volts might be much for a 4 cylinder.
Where your starter is mounted to the bell housing do you have a aluminum adapter plate between the bell housing and the starter?