580C brake rebuild questions

nova481 · Dec 30, 2020

Hi Dirty

I don't know if this helps but, here's some pictures. Most of my brakes have been in a cardboard box for years. If you want I can take that arm off and get some exact measurements. I think the part number is A51971.

Ron

DirtyHoe · Dec 30, 2020

Nova,

Thank you! That helps a lot. Part #A51971 is the old number that is in my printed manual. The new part #A7975 is listed on the Case parts website for a 580C. Your picture is great because the manual doesn't show that the pin physically touches the cam above and the coiled pin below. My machine was missing most of these pieces and nothing was working correctly.

Thanks again,

Steve

Legdoc · Dec 30, 2020

DirtyHoe,
What type milling machine is that? R-8 spindle? I noticed in the pic with the arbor press you have a nice assortment of collets also.

DirtyHoe · Dec 31, 2020

Legdoc,

It's a Servo II CNC bed mill like the picture below. It has a not so common ISO 40 taper spindle. All the tool holders are secured with a power drawbar. The spindle is a bit larger than a Bridgeport style mill and the holders are a lot more rigid than R-8 tooling. They were popular in the '90s and I don't think they are made anymore, but you can get parts for it. What I love about the machine is it's a hybrid. You can use it as a manual mill with a DRO or CNC program in 3 axis. Very handy since a lot of my repair work does not need CNC capabilities for simple one-off parts.

I'm very blessed to have access to my friend's commercial machine shop. It is well equipped with 2 of these mills, 6 Haas CNC vertical mills, and a CNC live tooling lathe, surface grinders, a waterjet cutter, and a wire-cut EDM. Plus all the basic manual lathe, mill, drill press, band saws, etc. There is also an unbelievable amount of tooling to equip a job shop. In addition, there is a complete weld shop with MIG, TIG, stick, and oxy-acetylene.

Are you into machining?

Steve

DirtyHoe · Dec 31, 2020

Here are the before and after pictures of the brake housing rebuild. The parts are a combination of new, wrecking yard, and custom machined. Everything was sandblasted. All threads were chased with a tap and a die. Sharp edges were hit with a grinder and sanding disc. The big parts were primed and painted. The little stuff was sent to the plater and had electroless nickel plating(ENP) applied. No more rust!

The majority of the parts were so corroded and frozen I mostly used an oxy-acetylene torch, a big hammer, and a hydraulic press to get it completely apart. Everything moves smoothly now.

Steve

stinky64 · Dec 31, 2020

Holy crap, your work is above and beyond awesome! If the rest of the machine is that nice when you're done, ya better put some big ass flags on er and put er in a parade....

outlawspeeder · Dec 31, 2020

It looks great. I didn't do that much to get mine back in service but is is good having brakes. If I were to do it again, I would order new springs, and all brake new material. Not sure I would rebuild the the auto adjuster for a home machine.

Did you have the parts plated that are not painted? I have a chrome plating shop local and working on old cars I'll have the bare metal plated so they don't rust again. I don't have the parts polished.

Legdoc · Dec 31, 2020

Steve,
In a previous life I was a manual and CNC machinist prior to going to medical school. I am a prosthetist-orthotist at a solo practice. I have a Bridgeport Series I and Romi CNC lathe in the laboratory. Excellent work on the project. Paint job is probably much better than original. The attention to detail should be inspiring to all. That level is a rare occurrence.

DirtyHoe · Dec 31, 2020

Outlaw,

I struggled with whether or not to fix the auto adjusters. Some said it's not worth messing with and others said they work great when set up properly. My hope is the mechanism will stay corrosion free and should work. Time will tell.

Plating for the little guy is hard to find these days. Most shops won't take walk-in traffic. My local plater won't do my parts, so I take them to Eugene, Oregon. Not many chrome platers around because of all the EPA regulations. I use electroless nickel plating on all the steel that is not painted. It's a lot cheaper than messing with primer and paint. Small parts take too long to handle and paint. I typically bring about 75 parts at a time and it only costs a little over $100.

Steve

DirtyHoe · Dec 31, 2020

Legdoc said:
Steve,
In a previous life I was a manual and CNC machinist prior to going to medical school. I am a prosthetist-orthotist at a solo practice. I have a Bridgeport Series I and Romi CNC lathe in the laboratory. Excellent work on the project. Paint job is probably much better than original. The attention to detail should be inspiring to all. That level is a rare occurrence.

Legdoc,

That is a great way to dovetail two specialties. I mix mine with teaching welding and machining to young men in a correctional facility.
I had an acquaintance that was in the building trades for years doing work on high-end homes. He liked the lifestyle of his doctor clients. So he went back to school in his early thirties and is now an orthopedic surgeon. You don't see that happen very often.

Steve

DirtyHoe · May 25, 2021

Getting back on this project and sandblasted the carrier assembly that holds the side gear. The area where the brake disc rubs has a bunch of surface cracks. The drain passage runs from the drilled hole at the bottom to the 6 o'clock position on the bore. Basically under the center of the cracks. It appears to be the weakest area. Can I run it or do these normally continue to break and cause a lot of damage?

Steve

Coy Lancaster · May 25, 2021

If you’re just using it around your farm then run them.

DirtyHoe · May 26, 2021

I would like to reuse it. I would hate to throw another $250.00 at my money pit for a replacement. Do you know if these are cast steel or cast iron? I was thinking about welding or brazing the cracks to at least slow the process down.

Steve

Swetz · May 26, 2021

To me, that looks like heat cracks from the brakes. If so, don't sweat them. We have machined them on truck brakes many many times. They are usually only on the surface. If you are using your machine such that you are not roading it (high gear), you will never get it that hot again.

Coy Lancaster · May 26, 2021

I believe they’re cast iron but not real sure. Have you checked with www.broken tractor.com to see what their prices are? Or look on eBay they usually have parts for backhoes.

DirtyHoe · May 27, 2021

I'm going to run it with the surface cracks. But I couldn't resist resurfacing the brake area. It took about .005 depth of cut to get rid of all of the grooves. I'm pretty sure they are cast iron based on the small chips it produced.
I get lucky once in a while- the bolt spacing was the same as the distance on my milling machine T-slots. It made for a quick setup.

Steve

stinky64 · May 27, 2021

Glad to see you're back to work on the machine, but now you're just showin' off

Any progress on the transaxle bearing refit?

DirtyHoe · May 28, 2021

Stinky64- Not getting as much done as I would like. Between the day job and having several big projects I'm circling around on it slows things down. I'm finding out it's a lot easier to tear things down than it is to get them back together.

On the transaxle, I've been cleaning, inspecting, and making small repairs. The parts list is getting bigger and more expensive.

stinky64 · May 28, 2021

If you're in no hurry maybe a cheap used unit may fall into your path..I know it's discouraging when all that crap starts stacking up.I'll never forget the replies from the guy I bought my machine from "that never leaked before, that wasn't broken before" all that stuff broke sitting in the field

I'm up to about $6000+ with my $2000 backhoe, but it's almost new again.....good luck, better days are comin'...

old and slow · Jun 23, 2021

DirtyHoe said:
It looks like the left brake was working most of the time. Or maybe the prior owners didn't use both brakes. After sandblasting the housing I noticed the wear area from the brake lining had some grooves and was worn down about .03 from the original surface. So I decided to machine the brake area and also took an equal amount off of the flange. By keeping it equal I maintained the original factory specification which is about 2.030" from the flange to the braking surface. If you don't do this the drum and disk assembly can over-expand causing the brakes to lock-up.
Back in the day Case machined these on a large lathe with a 4-jaw chuck. My lathe isn't big enough to swing this size of a part, so I did it on the milling machine. It added an extra step because the casting is not flat on the outside. I only took off about .02" to get it flat. I then flipped it over and bolted and clamped it to the table. I used a dial indicator to make sure I did not warp the flange. The rest was easy. I used a large carbide insert cutter and re-machined the surfaces.

Steve
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Nice machine work

580C brake rebuild questions

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