• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Broken 410B bucket side link

tweaver

New Member
Joined
May 20, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Auckland
Hi all,

new to the forum so hopefully I get this right. I busted a bucket side link on my 410B and I can’t find a spare in New Zealand.

Does anyone happen to have dimensions of this part so I can try and make one? I didn’t bring the good one home from the farm with me. Thanks!
2B4EF970-2E79-4158-8695-91B916B0054B.jpeg
 

mg2361

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
5,145
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
Welcome to HEF tweaver;)!

There is no dimensional drawing available that I know of. You will either have to copy the good one on your machine or contact your Deere dealer and ask them to open a DTAC case asking them for the dimensional drawing.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,891
Location
WI
You got nothing to lose by welding up the old one. preheat in the oven, peen the welds as you go, cover in dry ashes to let it cool after welding.
 

lantraxco

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
7,704
Location
Elsewhen
Cast, I don't remember if those are steel or ductile. If it looks like steel, a modified stainless like Eutectic 680 would be my choice to try and weld it up.
 

Willie B

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
4,062
Location
Mount Tabor VT
Occupation
Electrician
Cast, I don't remember if those are steel or ductile. If it looks like steel, a modified stainless like Eutectic 680 would be my choice to try and weld it up.

I would cut away enough material to "Butter" both broken surfaces with 312 stainless TIG. It won't happen quick. Puddle in center, then grow the puddle to coat the whole surface. Once both surfaces are coated, you can continue with stainless, or switch to cheaper rod.

I don't know, I believe JD doesn't use anything so exotic a well shaped joint can't be welded with 7018 stick.
 

lantraxco

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
7,704
Location
Elsewhen
Interesting concept, I'll have to try it sometime!

The reason I love the Eutectic 680, it's high nickel content, runs damn cold and has great ductility. I've successfully welded leaf spring main leafs with it years ago, I'm still impressed. Mind you that doesn't mean you can't weld anything Deere made or makes with 7018, it is my go to rod for field repairs and many shop jobs. Sometimes I go with the belt and suspenders plan though! YMMV
 

tweaver

New Member
Joined
May 20, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Auckland
Thanks for the response all. Unfortunately it was stuck pretty bad in the mud and the link broke during the process and I can’t find it anywhere. Called the dealer and they don’t have any knowledge of the part number (must be a New Zealand thing).

Can someone confirm for me the pin diameter? 1.5”?
 

lantraxco

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
7,704
Location
Elsewhen

tweaver

New Member
Joined
May 20, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Auckland
Thanks for the info lantraxco. I ended up buying some time at the local machine shop and making two new links of my own. Finally back up and running, spent a few hours on the weekend pushing dead trees over which was good fun.
 

Attachments

  • bucket_links.jpg
    bucket_links.jpg
    151.5 KB · Views: 11
Top