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Cat powershift false neutral

Fellingtreez

Active Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
25
Location
West Virginia
Here’s a picture of the linkage that’s in question.
I wouldn’t think the Allen bolt holding it together would be appropriate.

Haven’t found it in the parts manual yet.

If that isn’t a factory connection then it would be worth trying what it calls for since there’s not much movement in the shifter from forward to reverse.
 

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Nige

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Jun 22, 2011
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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
It's not what should be there, that's for sure.
Take a look at the other end of that same rod. Both ends ought to be like the illustration below. Part Number is 3K-4290.
With that "modification" it's quite likely that the transmission control linkage is incorrectly adjusted.

upload_2021-5-19_17-32-3.png
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
I'll bet The end on that rod is the right one but that bolt set up is not. Check the bell crank that rod is hooked to for free movement and how loose it may be.
Replace that bolt and check the adjustment .
Bob
 

John C.

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Jun 11, 2007
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Northwest
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Machinery & Equipment Appraiser
I think that what is there is perfectly fine even if not factory. As long as it moves freely and the bolt stays perpendicular to the line of movement, it is not the cause of your problem.
 

Fellingtreez

Active Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
25
Location
West Virginia
Yeah if it’s not a factory set up it’s a fairly good looking fix. It has hardly any slop and it’s a moving joint the bolt rides in. Bolt fits right.
Still might have to replace it. Here’s a picture of the other end of the rod.
 

Fellingtreez

Active Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
25
Location
West Virginia
One thing noticed while moving it around earlier was the decelerator pedal limiter was bent and missing the bolt stop.

When I would idle down for shifts with the pedal, the rpm went down farther than the pedal would normally allow. I finally noticed the potential connection between the shifting and low rpm and it seemed repeatable.

I could lower the rpm and make it not shift and raise it slightly and it would make the shift. Possible the low idle wouldn’t allow the transmission to shift?


Once I straightened the limiter it will not idle quite as low when the pedal is used.
 

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John C.

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I think it is logical. Pump flow would drop with engine speed. Pressure on the safety valve would drop and and the valve would trip and then the transmission wouldn't shift into gear. It would be the same scenario of trying to start the engine with the transmission in gear. I hope your solution works.
 

Mobiltech

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Jan 14, 2014
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1,680
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Sask.
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Self employed Heavy duty mechanic
I think you have it with the deceleration. I have seen a few over the years that we had to bump up the decelerator stop bolt to raise the rpm due to the pump getting weak. Yours was probably just dropping too low and the safety valve was kicking it to neutral.
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
I think that what is there is perfectly fine even if not factory. As long as it moves freely and the bolt stays perpendicular to the line of movement, it is not the cause of your problem.
If you look carefully you can see that long bolt shortens the throw on that rod .
That bolt needs to be replace and the linkage adjusted.
that set up should go into gear at a idle ,set the throttle at idle and try it.
Bob
 

oarwhat

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
824
Location
buffalo,n.y.
I think it is logical. Pump flow would drop with engine speed. Pressure on the safety valve would drop and and the valve would trip and then the transmission wouldn't shift into gear. It would be the same scenario of trying to start the engine with the transmission in gear. I hope your solution works.

This is what I said in post #9. Raise the decelerator idle and try it.
 
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