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Changed hydro oil yesterday. I’m changing the system.

emmett518

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
811
Location
USA
Changed the hydro oil in the 310 yesterday.

First weird thing is that Deere specified a specific filter for the system. Deere sold me that part. It is not the same filter as on the tractor, and does not fit. I had to drain out the new filter as I had pre-filled it before installing it, and will have to lug the old one back to the dealer to match it.
Second, the system drained out about 12 - 13 gallons of fluid. Since I only had Home Depot buckets to catch it, I had to remove the hose assembly loop from the frame (which necessitated removing a munged up, rusty bolt), and removing a finely threaded plug. Getting the plug back installed while fluid was pouring out so I could switch buckets was an exhausting nightmare.

So I went to Home Depot, and bought a 3/4 inch gas valve, rated for oil. I chose the gas valve because there was not enough room for a long handled ball valve. Bought two, 3/4 nylon hose barbs, and some oil resistant heater hose. I have brass barbs on order, but will use the nylon (which Home Depot stocked) for one year. The valve will let me easily stop the flow while I change buckets.

With the number of hours expected to be low each year, I’m guessing that this will be a yearly chore, but it was worth $30 in parts to not risk dropping a plug, or doing something else to pour 12 gallons of oil onto the driveway.
 
Last edited:

cosmaar1

Senior Member
Joined
May 14, 2020
Messages
513
Location
Ohio
Changed the hydro oil in the 310 yesterday.

First weird thing is that Deere specified a specific filter for the system. Deere sold me that part. It is not the same filter as on the tractor, and does not fit. I had to drain out the new filter as I had pre-filled it before installing it, and will have to lug the old one back to the dealer to match it.
Second, the system drained out about 12 - 13 gallons of fluid. Since I only had Home Depot buckets to catch it, I had to remove the hose assembly loop from the frame (which necessitated removing a munged up, rusty bolt), and removing a finely threaded plug. Getting the plug back installed while fluid was pouring out so I could switch buckets was an exhausting nightmare.

So I went to Home Depot, and bought a 3/4 inch gas valve, rated for oil. I chose the gas valve because there was not enough room for a long handled ball valve. Bought two, 3/4 nylon hose barbs, and some oil resistant heater hose. I have brass barbs on order, but will use the nylon (which Home Depot stocked) for one year. The valve will let me easily stop the flow while I change buckets.

With the number of hours expected to be low each year, I’m guessing that this will be a yearly chore, but it was worth $30 in parts to not risk dropping a plug, or doing something else to pour 12 gallons of oil onto the driveway.

someone else might be able to be more specific about your machine, but I think hydraulic oil is rated for 1000+ hours depending on the use. Obviously if there is water in the system it will be a lot less. I would change the filter(s) every 250 hrs or so.
 

emmett518

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
811
Location
USA
I read that if you have low hours on a yearly basis, you should do the hourly services yearly. That's why I planned to change it again in a year.

One other question.

We had light rain, and I left the cap to the hydraulic tank loose, kind of diagonal, but in the hole. The drain to the tank was wide open at the time, and the tank empty.

Do I need to flush it out with something, or should it be ok?
 

Tinkerer

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May 21, 2009
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9,376
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
[QUOTE="emmett518, post: 967694, member: 97596"Do I need to flush it out with something, or should it be ok?[/QUOTE]
You are looking for non-existant problems, Emmitt. IMHO !
Like others posted if that oil was clean and didn't have a burnt smell I think you wasted your money.
Get a plastic barrel and cut it off to catch the oil.
I would never use anything but metal pipe and fittings in a hydraulic system. Heat and pressure will destroy anything else.
In regards to the loose cap --- I'm not much help on that.
All I can say is that there is a chance water got in the tank. The only thing that should be used to flush a hydraulic tank or system is new oil. Unless you have a way to filter really decent used oil.
 

emmett518

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
811
Location
USA
Since the old stuff is clean, I'm going to take 5 gallons of old stuff, and pour it back into the tank, with the drain open, to flush it. Just in case any water got in.

I think hydro needs to be changed at 2000 hours. Mine has 1580, so it's early, but I wanted to do all fluids and filters at the same time to start fresh.

I have the maintenance records on the unit, but no idea how things were done prior to my getting my hands on the unit.
 

emmett518

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
811
Location
USA
Talked to Deere this AM. Apparently, in the middle of the model year, Deere changed the spec on the filter. My unit was made at the beginning of 2016, so it has the old filter. The dealer told me to bring in the old and new one, and they'd credit the wrong filter, and get me the right one.
 

skyking1

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2020
Messages
7,666
Location
washington
Here is what I and many others would do:
change the hydro oil next time on the 2000 hour schedule, no sooner. It is a closed, pressurized system that only gets contamination from broken parts.
change the hydro filter on the 1000 hour schedule.
change the engine oil and filter annually if less than 250 hours, or at 250 hours if working more.
Sump the fuel tank every time you go to use it. That is the one thing that bites most people.
Change the first fuel filter annually. Next one up do on the service schedule whatever that is.
 

JL Sargent

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
843
Location
Alabama
I have a 35 year old Ford 3910 tractor. Maybe use it 100hrs a year. The first 15 years or so I changed the oil once a year. The last 20 years I've changed it once every two years. Not one bit of difference except I change it 1/2 as often last 20 years. Never any engine work on it of any kind. It smokes a little when you first crank it, but then again it's still a 35 year old tractor.
 

emmett518

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Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
811
Location
USA
Put the 11 gallons of HYDRO into the tank, and it's not enough. Just to the bottom of the gauge. Not sure how much more I have to add to bring it to half full as I have no idea of the shape of the tank.
 

JL Sargent

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
843
Location
Alabama
I have the 310E and it takes (2 1/2) 5 gallon buckets of oil to fill that half way up as I recall. I keep 3 of those empty Hy Gard buckets on hand for the next time I need to drain the trans, which I hope is never.
If it's like mine, that tank is a skinny rectangle. Maybe a foot front to back.
 

emmett518

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
811
Location
USA
I bought another 2.5 gallon bottle, and maybe used 2/3. That brought it up to 1/2.

So 13.5 gallons total.
 
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