Underplates D6

funnystuff · Apr 13, 2021

Could use some advice on something, took off the heavy plates under the entire body of a D6 2010 ish, bolts very bad, anyway, when i put em on again i forgot to use the original thick 8-10mm washers and instead used some 2mm thick ones, is it worth the hassle to do it right?
If it were a 5-10 min job i wouldn't ask but these bolt and their way of attachment(bolt head in bracket, supported 1 side by frame)
Which makes air powered gun almost impossible so i have to use elbow grease.

Figuring it's gonna push up/back, on the other hand these thick washers were there for a reason.
Bit new, be kind, thanks.

Nige · Apr 13, 2021

funnystuff said:
If it were a 5-10 min job i wouldn't ask but these bolt and their way of attachment(bolt head in bracket, supported 1 side by frame)
Which makes air powered gun almost impossible so i have to use elbow grease.

A long (30-40cm as a minimum, maybe even longer) extension is what you need.

The thick washers shown in the OEM Parts Manual are hardened. That allows you to pull them up to the torque specified in the service manual (without worrying if things are going to loosen off over time). This is +/-275ft lbs (370Nm) if you are working on a D6T. If you provide the Serial Number of the tractor I can upload the parts list for the guards and the torque specifications.

Were the washers you used of the hardened variety.? If not I would seriously recommend that you should use the originals. Also if you think about replacing bolts they should be a minimum of Grade 8 (or 12.9 Metric) tensile strength if you use non-OEM bolts.

As always, you should be EXTREMELY CAREFUL when working with those guards. It's impossible to count the number of people who have been seriously injured or even killed when the fasteners or the lifting gear have let go either during removal or installation. The problem is that the procedure shown in all the manuals is being carried out on a tractor with brand-new guards. Used ones that have been impacted & twisted don't go up (or come down) as easily.........

funnystuff · Apr 13, 2021

Nige said:
A long (30-40cm as a minimum, maybe even longer) extension is what you need.

The thick washers shown in the OEM Parts Manual are hardened. That allows you to pull them up to the torque specified in the service manual (without worrying if things are going to loosen off over time). This is +/-275ft lbs (370Nm) if you are working on a D6T. If you provide the Serial Number of the tractor I can upload the parts list for the guards and the torque specifications.

Were the washers you used of the hardened variety.? If not I would seriously recommend that you should use the originals. Also if you think about replacing bolts they should be a minimum of Grade 8 (or 12.9 Metric) tensile strength if you use non-OEM bolts.

As always, you should be EXTREMELY CAREFUL when working with those guards. It's impossible to count the number of people who have been seriously injured or even killed when the fasteners or the lifting gear have let go either during removal or installation. The problem is that the procedure shown in all the manuals is being carried out on a tractor with brand-new guards. Used ones that have been impacted & twisted don't go up (or come down) as easily.........

Thanks, ill get ahold of as many original washers i havent lost and complete with the closest to original i can find. If not ill cut up some square washers of bucket steel.

Yeah they were a pain to get get out, used a pipe on a breakerbar to get distance of them if they were to fall. Luckily when changing 1 nut and washer at a time it's still secured by the other 3 on each plate.

Because of the design with the brackets and the poor condition of the bolts, the bolt spins out of position as soon as i hit it with the air powered gun.

It is indeed a D6T.

This has been gnawing for a while.

Nige · Apr 13, 2021

funnystuff said:
Thanks, ill get ahold of as many original washers i havent lost and complete with the closest to original i can find. If not ill cut up some square washers of bucket steel.

The OEM washers are $3.82 each in the US, no idea about Sweden. A few genuine ones wouldn't break the bank.

funnystuff said:
Because of the design with the brackets and the poor condition of the bolts, the bolt spins out of position as soon as i hit it with the air powered gun.

TBH based on your description it sounds as though it needs all new hardware (Items 1, 4, 9, & 11). To have a belly guard fall down is never good, and it always happens when the machine is working in a sea of mud. Been there, done that.

funnystuff · Apr 14, 2021

Nige said:
The OEM washers are $3.82 each in the US, no idea about Sweden. A few genuine ones wouldn't break the bank.
TBH based on your description it sounds as though it needs all new hardware (Items 1, 4, 9, & 11). To have a belly guard fall down is never good, and it always happens when the machine is working in a sea of mud. Been there, done that.
View attachment 237373

Yeah, probably better to get all new bolts, although the guard must go of to detach them and ill rather put my johnson in a spinning timing belt than to go through with that again.

Nut and washers i should get oem tho, to get em on a little smoother, i guess 11 and 9 are those, is it possible to get exclusively those and if that's the case, do you have a complete parts number for those? I have faith that the nuts wont slide off the bolts in action.

Holy hell i read your signature as a comment but saw at reply it wasn't, bet im not the first.

Nige · Apr 14, 2021

OK, I did a bit of checking. There are different bolt Part Numbers depending on which one of about half a dozen options of guard arrangement is installed on a particular machine. In order to not give you the wrong number it would be better to have the machine Serial Number, because that will identify the type of guard with which it was built.

funnystuff said:
Holy hell i read your signature as a comment but saw at reply it wasn't, bet im not the first.

No, you're not. Apparently it doesn't always show up as a signature line on some tpyes of smart phones. It was the result of an interaction many years ago with a Safety germ.

nowing75 · Apr 15, 2021

I was wondering if there is anything available for belly pan removal. We had a guy smash his finger and boss wants to buy something.

Nige · Apr 15, 2021

What size(s) of tractor are you working on.? Something small-ish and a transmission floor jack would maybe work.

nowing75 · Apr 16, 2021

Nige said:
What size(s) of tractor are you working on.? Something small-ish and a transmission floor jack would maybe work.

d6T is out largest as of now.

Nige · Apr 16, 2021

Here's the procedures from the manual.
Note they are different depending on whether the guards are to be removed completely or simply pivoted and lowered to the ground on one side.

nicky 68a · Apr 18, 2021

Belly plates are a pain.
As a cowboy,I’ve probably took them off as many ways wrong as I’ve done them right.Rear transmission belly plates on D8/9 conventional track type tractors that are full of muck and oil are a real treat to remove and replace.
These modern tractors are much better and are spilt into two to make them smaller and are often hinged at some point.Actually the belly plates on the D8T are that easy to remove,I remove them just to clean them out sometimes for fun.I leave the D9T ones alone though as they are abit bent and battered and I only removed those after buying it to take a good luck at things.They won’t get removed again unless a breakdown occurs.
If in doubt,simply fasten a pull strap at either end to keep it cradled up tight to the frame then lower one down enough to slip your new bolts into the recess.On your D6,you may be able to change a few easy access ones from the top though without letting the plate down?

Underplates D6

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