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2006 New Holland LS170 oil cooler line blew - tips needed

BobbyP

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2019
Messages
12
Location
NY
(originally posted in wrong forum section so copying here)
Hi all,
I have an old NH that's been running great and the other day I noticed I couldn't lift the boom, followed by a trail of oil. Well, by the time I parked it oil was coming out of every orifice and making a huge mess. After opening the back door and hood I could hear it pissing out but couldn't see it. Finally I was able to grab the one and only hydraulic line there under the engine/on top of the fuel tank and shift it around and the noise changed immediately so I'm pretty positive it's the oil cooler line that blew. My reservoir is empty. :( I saw a post here and there about replacing this line but could use any more info and tips in general on cracking the connections open. Since it's a 2006 and this line probably never changed I'm thinking it's going to be a pain. This is my first machine so not very experienced with hydraulic connections, etc.
The connection to the oil cooler is on the right side (from the back) and in a pretty tight spot. I removed the pan underneath the engine and although the connection is right there it's still in a bit of an awkward position. I noticed there's an opening from the back behind the door where I can see underneath the radiator directly to the connection but again it's pretty tight. Also, I'm worried about twisting the nipple off the oil cooler so need to make sure I use two wrenches, but still, any tips on this? Will heating (propane torch) the connection help if it's stuck?
The connection to the control valve looks to be in a tough spot as well, so what do you guys usually do? Is it just experience? I mean, I've worked on all my cars, my house, etc. but for some reason this seems to scare me a bit, probably because it's new to me.

I'd appreciate any general tips you guys have and especially if you've changed this specific hose before. Thanks!
 

77Ford

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2021
Messages
92
Location
Missouri
I would not use any heat at all but that's just me. The best thing I have found on hydraulic fittings is to take 2 ball pean hammers and smack opposing flats together (like your smashing the fitting) not so hard as to deform anything but it seems to help the fittings break loose easier. Other than that you're going to have be patient and make sure you have good bites with both your wrenches. My guess is they will not be too bad overall from the age of the machine.

Good luck.
 

BobbyP

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2019
Messages
12
Location
NY
Thanks for the help. I was able to loosen the end at the control valve using a 1.25 crowfoot, which although hard to get to, was the side I was less worried about. Now the end at the oil cooler has a 90 degree elbow and it looks like it ties to the oil cooler which is plastic? Could that be? I don't think I need to remove the elbow, though, as the blown line ties to the bottom end of it but seeing what I thought was plastic makes me even more worried about putting torque in the area. It looks tight to get two wrenches in there. Anyway, the new hose is coming tomorrow so I'll know about the elbow then. Thanks!
 

BobbyP

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2019
Messages
12
Location
NY
Thanks for the diagram. That is exactly my setup and made me realize the line I ordered was incorrect so I re-ordered the correct one.
 

BobbyP

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2019
Messages
12
Location
NY
Ok, so apparently they have redesigned this hose so instead of a regular hydraulic hose from the oil cooler to the control valve, there's now a hard metal line from the oil cooler to about 2 feet away from the control valve, then a hydraulic hose from the hard line to the control valve. I guess the original hose rubs against the motor mount and eventually wears through. That is what happened on mine as I was able to finally get the old hose out. Now I'm trying to get that hard line in and with all the twists I'm not sure it's possible without some disassembly of various parts. I'm still waiting for the 2 ft hose to come and I'm glad I got a head start because this doesn't look easy at all.

Anyway, I was able to get the hard line partially in but the fan is in the way of allowing me to swing it into it's final position. I'm hoping I can remove the fan and clutch (?) and that may give enough room to get in there. I'm still not positive this hard line is going to fit around everything but I have one end in the cab under the seat and the rest looks like it may work. I may have to remove the oil filter but I'll do that last.

Is it easy to remove the fan/clutch? How do I do that? I don't see much there. Once again, any help would be appreciated. I should really post pictures because this is literally crazy trying to get a hard line in without removing a bunch of stuff. I'm considering having a custom hose made and just doing it that way but would really like this to work, if possible.
 

BobbyP

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2019
Messages
12
Location
NY
Thinking about it more, it might be easier to lower the fuel tank. Anyone have experience with that on this skid steer? Looking in the service manual it doesn't look too bad, I guess. I also saw a parts list for the fan and looks like there's just a bolt in the center holding the fan? Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

BobbyP

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2019
Messages
12
Location
NY
Updating as I go.

I removed the fan. There are 4 bolts holding to the end of the water pump. I couldn't get my hand in there so removed the 8 bolts that hold the entire backend/oil cooler/shroud assembly and just pulled it back a little and let it tilt giving me room. After getting the fan off I was able to swing the hard line down the rest of the way. It doesn't fit. It looks like it's made to go on the inner side of the motor mount and I'm not going to raise the engine to put a line in. From the way I'm approaching it I'm on the outside of the mount so no go.

The only other option I can see, besides getting a hose made, is to drop the fuel tank and see if I can get it in that way.
 

77Ford

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2021
Messages
92
Location
Missouri
I removed the tank on my LS 180 and it was very difficult I would avoid that route if at all possible.
 

BobbyP

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2019
Messages
12
Location
NY
Well, it turned into a bit of a shitshow, but I'm thinking this is normal for old(er) machinery?

I really wanted the hardline to work because a) I had it and didn't want to return and pay restocking/shipping fees, plus the remaining hose was on it's way as well and b) figured the hardline would be a better fix. So, I ended up dropping the tank down enough that I could get access. You don't need to fully remove it but it's literally another minute or two to take it completely out. I didn't raise the machine up so would have to a bit to get the tank fully out but I have enough access as it is. Removing the tank was an experience to say the least.

With the tank out of the way I can get the hardline in without much of an issue so I have it connected to the oil cooler. I thought I was home free until noticing the hose that connects in between the hardline and control valve is too long -- like 5 to 6 inches too long. I really have no idea what's going on with this as this hardline/hose that supercedes the long hose mentioned pilot controls, which I don't have and I'm assuming that's why the hose is too long for my machine. Originally I was going to call the parts place back but I'm just going to measure it and have a place cut it shorter and put the end back on (they can be re-used, sometimes, I think?). And of course, now the union for the hardline to hose is underneath the seat and as accessible as the rest, which is not the best. I can't seem to win on this. Literally everything I touched turned out to be a pain in the ass.

If I had to do it over again I would absolutely just go and have a new hose made up and throw it in there, and NOT through the frame/mount pinch point.
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,367
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
All of has those kind of days, Bobby !
Warning ! You prolly won't find anyone that will cut and put a new end on a hose unless it is the same brand they sell.
It is all about liability if somethings goes bad.
 

77Ford

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2021
Messages
92
Location
Missouri
The front bracket on the fuel tank was an absolute bear for me plus you gotta have the machine really high to get the tank actually out. Pack in 20 years of crud and I'd rather get kicked in the junk than take that tank out again. I made up cuss words as the normal one didnt really pack the punch I was looking for......
 

BobbyP

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2019
Messages
12
Location
NY
Yep, that bracket was hitting everything and looked like it should be easy to just pull out but no, it's not to be.

So I stopped at the hose place this morning and had them cut off 5.5 inches and put a new end on. No issues @Tinkerer, thankfully, but thanks for the heads up. I was prepared for the bad news when I was there but he charged me $35 for "hose repair" and 5 minutes work (lol), but whatever, it could be worse. Now the fun part starts tomorrow morning when I have to put all of this back together. I seriously hope the length is ok now because it's gotta be pretty accurate as the hard line has no flex and this thick hose, especially at 18" now, has very little. *fingers crossed*
 

BobbyP

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2019
Messages
12
Location
NY
Thanks, guys.

Well it's done and I wish to never do that again, hah. I needed to loosen the hard line at the oil cooler again because getting the two hoses lined up to connect together, under the seat, where you need two hands and can only get one there was not working out. I ended up having to tie a string to the elbow end just to be able to pull it up and connect it to the control valve. Man, I've always worked on my cars but I have to say this is the most difficult wrenching I've ever had to do. My hands are torn up, my arms are torn up. Ugh. Don't know how some guys do this all day. Even getting the belly pan back up was a job even using a floor jack.

Anyway, everything worked out and no hydraulic leaks. I needed to add back 4 gallons to get it to level again which was surprising. I thought I would be more, actually, with the amount that was pouring out. It took a second for the boom to lift but I took it easy and then started moving forward/backwards to get the oil pumped around. Kept checking the level and added as needed. One of the fuel lines I took off for the fuel tank was falling apart and spraying fuel and I happened to have some extra laying around but besides that everything finally came together.

Now, I drink!
 
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