Cat D3B 3204 governor/injection pump

Hello, my first post here and my fingers are crossed for some help. I have a 1986 D3B that we have been using around our farm for almost a year. Fantastic little machine.
Long story short I had a sizeable oil leak coming out of the governor shaft seal that I figured I'd attempt to fix. I went to remove the cover plate where the seal sits and accidentally pulled the governor shaft out far enough for something to fall off inside. Now I have a governor that is separated from the injection pump and I am looking for options/advice other than taking it to my local cat dealer and writing a large check to get it back together. I'm very aware of the risk of runaway which is why I'm posting to see what options exist.

im local to Greensboro NC and am wondering first if there is a resident expert on here that is close by that may be able to help.

Second question is I'm having trouble locating the correct parts diagram for the governor. I need to identify the shaft seal so I can replace that and the governor housing gasket.

Machine numbers are below.
machine SN 27Y03986
Engine SN 45V54147

Diesel Equipment (fuel shop) is in Greensboro..
Calm n press 5 for the service dept... or just show up w the gov and they’ll put it together.. they’ll have the breakdown and parts.
Good luck

Great! Thank you. I will take it there

before I finish removing the injection pump is there anything I need to be concerned with on the timing? I would presume the engine needs to be at TDC for #1 cylinder prior to removal. Once I go to reinstall will I need to go through the timing procedure or no?

If memory serves me right, there are pins the need to drop in..
1 on the pump that’s on the max fuel cover..

Might be something here that will help see attached file:

Any chance you can post the file for these procedures as well? These are both referenced in the document you posted.

FUEL RACK SETTING AND GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENTS in TESTING AND ADJUSTING
INSTALL ACCESSORY DRIVE HOUSING

Thank you very much for your help!

To be honest I don't think you need both those for what you want to do. For one thing the Fuel Rack Setting and Governor adjustment is included in a 157 page manual, at least on SIS.

Second I would not suggest removing the Accessory Drive assembly unless you have access to the 5P143 timing plate to retime the drive. I will attach that just so you are clear on that part.

Do you still need the breakdown on the governor showing the seal numbers?

This pump and governor is a difficult one to nail down some things on! I've been going in circles trying to find the seal for where the shaft come out of the side cover.
Any chance there are numbers on the pump and governor?

Think I might be getting somewhere.
Does this picture look like the pump and governor on your D3B?


If so then the seal you are looking for should be item #10 in the page attached below. Also if that is the case then I need to do a little more work to find the correct install instructions for the pump as that style pump does not need the tool I mentioned yesterday.

If anyone else is viewing this thread does anyone know if there is a way to see the drawings for Cat FT1538 and FT1823 or other "Fabricate Tools"?

I've attached some pictures below of the setup. Your diagram is the closest I've seen to what my hardware looks like. The seal that is bad is the shaft seal which sits in the cover piece that the governor shaft comes through. You can see the dried cracked seal in the picture below.

I think I'm OK on the seal piece as I'll take the works into Diesel Equipment and have them check the governor out and reassemble it. They can replace the seals and anything else that might be worn out.

What I'm most concerned about is ##1 making sure the fuel injection is timed to the engine per specs and #2 making any final adjustments to the fuel injection system once its reassembled. I'm anticipating that it won't run perfectly right out of the gate. On #1 I'm pretty confident I have it right in my head I would just like to lay eyes on the steps for setting the injection pump timing utilizing the pin. Although I could have the shop preset the timing for me I'm sure.

Let me know what you think or can find? Thank you again SO much!

Have an 86 931B loader. As far as the governor shaft seal, there is enough room to use two seals to seal the shaft from leaking. Tip from late Bob/Ont you can take to the bank. Still has to be put back together properly.

well if you are only taking off the governor like in the pictures above then timing should not be an issue. But if removing the complete pump then you will need to do the timing steps.

Unless I'm missing something the gear that drives the injection pump stays in the engine and has to be pulled off from the front through a hole in the front cover of the engine. That is what the two "FT" tools are used for. To be honest I have never worked on a 3204 but have done the same job on a 3306 with a very similar injection pump. On that engine there is a bigger cover that comes off and I recall being able to use a standard two leg puller. From reading the instructions for the 3204 it appears that the access is much smaller and a special tool set up is needed. Sort of wish I was there to see the set up first hand as often Cat will claim a special tool is needed to do a job but with a little ingenuity one can get by with what is on hand. Maybe I'll try starting a new thread just on the FT1537 and FT1539.

i just reinstalled a injector pump on my D4H 3204 engine. Before i removed it, i pinned the flywheel while also pinning the injector pump. This way when both were lined up and pinned i knew that the pre pinned(timed) rebuilt pump would be aligned when reinstalled. As far as removing the pump, you will have a 3ish inch access cover that allows you to unscrew the bolt holding the gear to the tapered shaft of the pump. Loosen the three bolts(two of which are a bitch to get to) holding the pump to the housing just till slightly lose. Break loose the bolt holding the gear to the pump shaft and unscrew 2-3 turns. Tap this bolt with a sizeable dead blow hammer or brass hammer and it will break loose. BE CAREFUL removing this bolt because it has a sizable washer that needs to come out with it. The LAST thing you need is to loose that washer in the timing gear housing. The force needed to break the injector gear off the injector pump tapered shaft is not that great. A couple of raps with a hammer will do the trick. I didnt use any special tools for this.
Also there is not alot of room to swing a hammer to do this because of the fan blade cage housing so this will testify as to the ease in which the gear came loose from the pump shaft...(on my dozer anyway)

So a new wrinkle just came about. I put a call into Diesel equipment here in Greensboro and they are no longer repairing cat pumps. The service guy said their old timer that repaired them died and they have no one else able to do it. ThePumpguySC - are you able to repair it? I don't mind driving it to you since you aren't that far away.

The only reason I'm taking the injector pump off is to allow the governor to be properly reassembled. I don't think there is any other way to get it reassembled than on a bench. If I'm wrong here let me know.

Pevo - thanks for that procedure - that appears to exactly match my injection hardware. Once I figure out whos putting it back together I'll get it off and on its way.

Again you guys are awesome and I can't thank you enough for taking the time to help me out.

IMO, you're making more of this than necessary.

You already have the governor housing off and there's nothing that you've removed so far that can't be reassembled with basic hand tools. The governor shaft keys into a couple of levers which will be what got misplaced when you first pulled it out and it's impossible to reassemble it wrong. Use the opportunity to replace the tacho shaft seal as well, as this is a common leak location. Only if the tacho shaft has a groove where the seal runs do you start to need special tools to replace it.

The hardest part will be identifying all the gaskets and seals, but everything will be available from your dealer.

Don't disturb the adjusting screws in red circles.

You might be right now that I have learned a bunch from the help here. Just trying to see if an option exists to have it done by a pro. Barring that I'll give it a go at my bench and post if I get stuck. It's nice to have access to experience that is willing to help.

From memory, the only place you can go wrong is with the governor spring seat. There should be the seat, a wave washer and, I think, a plain washer. These have to be in the right order, but if you noted their orientation at disassembly then just put it back the same way.

Cmark said:

IMO, you're making more of this than necessary.

You already have the governor housing off and there's nothing that you've removed so far that can't be reassembled with basic hand tools. The governor shaft keys into a couple of levers which will be what got misplaced when you first pulled it out and it's impossible to reassemble it wrong. Use the opportunity to replace the tacho shaft seal as well, as this is a common leak location. Only if the tacho shaft has a groove where the seal runs do you start to need special tools to replace it.

The hardest part will be identifying all the gaskets and seals, but everything will be available from your dealer.

Don't disturb the adjusting screws in red circles.

View attachment 237422

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I was thinking along those lines too but thought it looked like you already had the pump loose from the engine and were committed to pulling it off.

Assuming this pump and governor is very close to one I worked on years ago on a 3306 the main thing is to make sure the riser and weights are in the correct position when slipping the governor back on.

kshansen said:

main thing is to make sure the riser and weights are in the correct position when slipping the governor back on.

Click to expand...

I agree with that entirely, however he isn't even that far into it. Literally has just the back housing off.